BlackWidow
Well-Known Member
KZJ90 said:
For me yes I would recomend them. Just take a look at my reply in the other Bush section we have going at the moment though.
Steve
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Caster Correction.......
- Thread starter sae70
- Start date
For me yes I would recomend them. Just take a look at my reply in the other Bush section we have going at the moment though.
Steve
It's all very bushey on here @ the mo 
Steve do you have any pics of the cams & bolts before you fitted them as I'm struggling to wrap my head around exactly how they work well not so much the cams but a piccy of the hole behind them in the wishbone mount would be great
Oh & did you find out how much they were
Was it £50 And was that for a set of four 
Steve do you have any pics of the cams & bolts before you fitted them as I'm struggling to wrap my head around exactly how they work well not so much the cams but a piccy of the hole behind them in the wishbone mount would be great
Oh & did you find out how much they were
Was it £50 And was that for a set of four 
KZJ90
Member
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2010
- Messages
- 133
Got my poly bushes from Milner today. There are markings 2711 (front) and 2712 (rear) pressed on the bush, SuperPro´s part.no is SPF2711K (front) and SPF2712K (rear), so they have to be theirs. Looking good, next I have to figure how to change them at easy way.
after i lifted mine 2.5" and fitted 285 75 16s on ,i too had the problem with the arch/mud flap clearance so i cut loads out .it made it better but not right .
so i undid the rear bolt of the bottom wisbone (the ones for caster correction)and set it to fully out and left the front alone then took it for tracking.a year down the line theres no problems with tyre wear or catching tyres etc......
so i undid the rear bolt of the bottom wisbone (the ones for caster correction)and set it to fully out and left the front alone then took it for tracking.a year down the line theres no problems with tyre wear or catching tyres etc......
BIG clean GREEN
Well-Known Member
Don't supose you've got any pictures have you Craig as I will need to tackle this soon due to my tyres rubbing on the arch, my local tyre fitter has offered to help me out of hours, we'll also check the tracking !
Regards,
Regards,
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I don't get any rubbing with my 255/85/16 KM2's 
After the tyres were fitted
They popped her up on the Lazer track & set up the tracking & caster for me after I'd had a chat with the technitian about the idea of moving the wheel forwards buy adjusting the caster forwards, I'm not sure if this was done as I understand the caster adjustment also changes the camber they go hand in hand if you like
But the up shot is, no rubbing
and I still have my front mud flaps fitted
Don't get me wrong it is close but there is no rubbing
After the tyres were fitted
They popped her up on the Lazer track & set up the tracking & caster for me after I'd had a chat with the technitian about the idea of moving the wheel forwards buy adjusting the caster forwards, I'm not sure if this was done as I understand the caster adjustment also changes the camber they go hand in hand if you like
But the up shot is, no rubbing
and I still have my front mud flaps fitted
Don't get me wrong it is close but there is no rubbing
I'm in the middle of fitting 285/75 R16 Cooper Discoverer STT on 16x8 zero offset steel wheels to my otherwise unmodified kzj90 (1998) . I have plenty of clearance at the front even on full lock it does not touch the bumper . But having removed the mud flap and cut roughly an inch off the body seam i MIGHT just slip a razor blade between the tyre and the body if i tried . So tomorrow another half inch of the seam will be removed with a grinder .
The mudflaps or plastics are going back on because i want to retain as much of the original look as possible , my main reason for fitting bigger wheels and tyres is i think the standard wheels look ridiculous on the truck , a bit like putting mike tyson in stiletto shoes . I haven't quite worked out how to fit the plastics back yet but I discovered today a hair dryer gives enough heat to make them very easy to bend and twist and the inner most part can be bolted on the rear side of the bodywork instead of in the arch . Maybe i will just do that and cut a line with the grinder where the seem is and use a blob of araldite to hold it flush ?
I dont want a suspension lift of any kind if i can help it for 2 reasons . The first is i dont like trucks to look like their on stilts and much prefer the planted look like arctic trucks have . And secondly i dont believe anyone can improve on Toyota's own set up because nobody else has several billion to spend on research .
Anyway i posted this because i spent hours on the internet trying to find helpful advice about fitting bigger rubber and only ended up more confused than i was before i started . And besides talking about it helps me think it through .
The mudflaps or plastics are going back on because i want to retain as much of the original look as possible , my main reason for fitting bigger wheels and tyres is i think the standard wheels look ridiculous on the truck , a bit like putting mike tyson in stiletto shoes . I haven't quite worked out how to fit the plastics back yet but I discovered today a hair dryer gives enough heat to make them very easy to bend and twist and the inner most part can be bolted on the rear side of the bodywork instead of in the arch . Maybe i will just do that and cut a line with the grinder where the seem is and use a blob of araldite to hold it flush ?
I dont want a suspension lift of any kind if i can help it for 2 reasons . The first is i dont like trucks to look like their on stilts and much prefer the planted look like arctic trucks have . And secondly i dont believe anyone can improve on Toyota's own set up because nobody else has several billion to spend on research .
Anyway i posted this because i spent hours on the internet trying to find helpful advice about fitting bigger rubber and only ended up more confused than i was before i started . And besides talking about it helps me think it through .
Here's a brainwave that resulted from my previous post . I have a 4 tonne long reach bottle jack (£50 from Draper) . I wonder if i could find a way to set the jack to fold the seam if you get what i mean . Prop the jack at an angle against the curb and use it to bend the steel bodywork inside the wheel arch . If it worked it would make alterations for bigger rubber a 10 minute job !?!
I have just taken the original alloys with cooper st (165 i think) off because they look to small for the truck . I fitted all four steel 16x8 zero offset with cooper stt 285/75 R16 today and took it for a drive around town without problems . IMO these look perfectly in proportion with the truck . I have not yet re-fitted the mudflaps as i'm confused by the fact that the right seam had to be trimmed with the grinder far more than the left seam .
The only possible reason i can think off (thanks to this thread) is that the caster setting on the drivers side is considerably lower than on the off side .
So with the truck now drive-able i will take it for a wheel alignment tomorrow requesting the caster set at full reach on both wheels . No point in trimming more than is necessary .
The only possible reason i can think off (thanks to this thread) is that the caster setting on the drivers side is considerably lower than on the off side .
So with the truck now drive-able i will take it for a wheel alignment tomorrow requesting the caster set at full reach on both wheels . No point in trimming more than is necessary .
Caster adjustment is not gonna happen coz the bolts are sized solid . Lads in the tyre shop couldn't budge the nuts with a two foot extension on a socket with the truck 6ft in the air so i don't see much point in trying myself . They reckon she will sail through an M.O.T as is regardless so i guess i will just have to butcher the mudflaps and just keep the outer part which finishes the mudguard tidy against the sidesteps .
So fit the flaps , then remove the leather seats which i intend to dye black and polish with dubbin as the old blue leather is so cracked and dry its a wonder it hasn't disintegrated , Then paint the lower half of the truck black to match the rest and replace the badges with shiney new ones and thats it finished .
So fit the flaps , then remove the leather seats which i intend to dye black and polish with dubbin as the old blue leather is so cracked and dry its a wonder it hasn't disintegrated , Then paint the lower half of the truck black to match the rest and replace the badges with shiney new ones and thats it finished .
