CDL Stuck on!

[Jamsy]

Yesterday I took the Cruiser over a few fields.
I tried out the Low box and Center Diff Lock.
I can't get the CDL to dis-engage, searched all the forums and tried everything recommended. Reversing in a Zig-zag etc. Been trying it since yesterday afternoon.

We're away visiting family and have a 5hour drive ahead of us tomorrow. Thinking about removing the front prop just to get us home.
Anyone got any other suggestions?

(The light on the dash is on all the time and its definitely locked up as I can hear it scrubbing a tyre when turning in the drive. Also, its had the pin7 modification so can select diff lock in High or Low).

 

[Chris]

Probably electrical then. The CDL is an electric locker. It does have a fuse though. If it's failed in the locked position (not the fuse, the motor) then you're a bit stuck. Check fuse first.
Then operate the switch too. You should hear a faint click of the ECU but also the whizz of the motor. If you get that, then it's mechanically stuck. ie the gearing is moving but the locking bar isn't. If you get click but no whizz then the motor isn't moving either. If you get no click then there's no continuity somewhere or a failed component. CDL motors are usually pretty good.

Pin 7 mod not recommended btw. There's a much better mod than that which improves your gearing. Should be the same as an 80/

 

[Jamsy]

Cheers Chris.
I checked the 30A fuse in the passenger footwell and it was fine. Im not hearing any whizz from the motor or click from the ecu.
I was listening underneath at the transfer box for the motor, where is the ecu that operates the diff and I'll check that again. (should it operate with the ignition on, engine not running?).

Pin7 and the other mods were all done before I bought it.
The CDL worked fine when I last tried it a few months ago.
Strange that it engaged ok then a couple of minutes later it wouldn't disengage.

 

[Chris]

ECU probably in the PS footwell I'd think. Yes ignition on but not running all the lockers will operate. Now, we could be looking at an issue with the pin 7 mod of course. When the motors pack up, you still get a click from the ECU. Now I have said it before and I know there's always a backlash but the vast vast majority of the locker issues tend to be with the motors themselves. Yes there can be wiring faults. Yes there can be ECU faults. Yes there can be switch faults. All worth checking but stats show it's usually the motor. Either it's disintegrated or the magnets have fallen off. Motors can work perfectly again and again then suddenly stop. In Russia mine worked faultlessly until it didn't. I glued the magnets back in and off we go.

Not having a click in either high or low range would be a concern and would point firstly perhaps to a wiring issue either through the actual cabling, switch or plugs. Or as I have said, where the wires have been twiddled with. Does the rear locker still fire up given that the CD is locked?

 

[Liam T]

Hi I am having a similar problem except I am pretty sure the reason my CDL is stuck on is mechanical. Anybody any ideas how to free it of with pulling gear box out?

 

[Towpack]

Try jacking up the front wheels, which will free any transmission windup, then spinning a wheel too and fro. Try tapping the actuator body with the ignition on if you can get to it. Disconnecting the props and removing the gearbox crossmember will let you lower the transmission down carefully just enough to make it much more accessible without removing the whole trans.

 

[Liam T]

To be honest I've got a feeling it's been stuck on for a while. I bought my 80 1995 GS U.K. Model a couple of years ago not knowing much about them. I Used it for a winter trip to Knordkap a week or two after buying it. it got me there and back then I parked it up in my workshop till about 6 months ago, was never sure if any of the diff locks were engaging properly so decided to take a closer look and found the CDL actuator absolutely shot at as was the rear locker. Took both off replaced centre with a used one and put a new locker in the rear. Rear is working fine but centre is stuck on. Pretty sure it's been like that for years as when I took a closer look at the centre the difflock sensor was unplugged so no light would show on the dash. Got a feeling it's done thousands of miles locked in place.

 

[Chris]

CDL is a swine to get to it's fair to say. However, dropping the whole transfer box can be done in around 45 mins. and is not technical at all. Much easier on a ramp of course. But only 7 bolts hold it on plus the props and the low range linkage. Plus a few plugs and breathers.

 

[Liam T]

Already had a go at taking transfer box off when I was struggling to get at the CDL actuator. Got all bolts out disconnected gear linkage but it wouldn't budge and didn't want to force too much for fear of damaging something. So I replaced the CDL with transfer box in place. I am thinking now the reason I couldn't get transfer box of is because it was locked in position. Not sure if that S right though.

 

[Chris]

No. There's two dowels in the face between the two halves. Never hit the drive flange, but you will need to aggressively break the seal and wiggle the two apart

 

[Liam T]

With the transfer box off and the CDL actuator removed is it then possible to manually disengage the the locker? I have been considering replacing the clutch at some point in the near future, not that it's slipping or anything but judging by the state of the slave cylinder which I have now changed I'm sure clutch hasn't been touched in a long time. I intend keeping the vehicle so might get someone else to strip the gearbox out ready for clutch then try to free the locker.

 

[Chris]

Yes you can.

We've done a few clutches so let us know and we'll give you the tips! I've done two, on my own, laid on the ground. A ramp is worth every effort to get to.

 

[Liam T]

By the way I apologise for sort of highjacking your thread Jamsy hope you get sorted and thank you to Towpack and chris for the advice so far. I am sure I will have more questions for you soon enough, should of joined this forum a good few months ago I think.

 

[Liam T]

Not going to even attempt to get the gearbox out on my back you are a braver man than me Chris. I really do appreciate all the advice.

 

[Chris]

No problem. Where in the UK are you. It doesn't say in your side bar

 

[Liam T]

I am over near rochdale.

 

[uHu]

Between the CDL actuator and the transfer box, there's a gear wheel. If you take the actuator off you can turn this wheel to engage or disengage the diff lock. You can then also test the actuator without load. The only thing to observe is to make sure the actual diff lock and the actuator are in the same position (fully locked or fully unlocked) when putting things together again (with a working actuator, that is). If they get misaligned, you will burn the actuator's motor because it will continously try to move the diff lock which is already mechanically at it's end position.

To get the acuator off without finger acrobatics, just undo the crossmember and lower the rear of the transfer/gearbox/engine assembly a bit. No need to undo the props. The cog wheel (gear) is loose between the actuator and the casing, with the smallest wheel into the box.

 

[Chris]

I've never done one in situ. It's always been so easy to whip the box off but then I've been under there doing other things I guess. Generally like swapping the transfer box!

 

[Liam T]

Between the CDL actuator and the transfer box, there's a gear wheel. If you take the actuator off you can turn this wheel to engage or disengage the diff lock. You can then also test the actuator without load. The only thing to observe is to make sure the actual diff lock and the actuator are in the same position (fully locked or fully unlocked) when putting things together again (with a working actuator, that is). If they get misaligned, you will burn the actuator's motor because it will continously try to move the diff lock which is already mechanically at it's end position.

To get the acuator off without finger acrobatics, just undo the crossmember and lower the rear of the transfer/gearbox/engine assembly a bit. No need to undo the props. The cog wheel (gear) is loose between the actuator and the casing, with the smallest wheel into the box.

Thanks for the info uhu,
I've got some time on my hands next week so going to have another go at it.
i replaced the old CDL ( it was unsalvageable) with a used one 4 or 5 months ago and managed to do it with box in place. I did have a feel around inside the opening before I put the used one in and found the cog you mentioned maybe I had it in the wrong position. I did put the new locker on in the on position
I connected it to a battery and it worked perfectly before I put it in. Can hear the actuator motor kick in but won't unlock. I will have a go as you suggested but I get a feeling it is well and truly stuck in and as Chris suggests may have to remove transfer box to get a proper look at what is going on under the actuator.

 

[Chris]

Not unusual to put these back on out of synch. I've done it myself even though I know not to.