Centre diff lock fault not working **now fixed !!**

[Mikeharris1992]

so other two sensors or switches I guess that sit in the low range or maybe neutral position? They don't work either.

So I bypassed them with paper clips

I did have for a few mins clicking from a relay down in the nsf footwell when centre diff lock was engaged, but then it stopped. Re check fuses as I thought maybe I popped one but there ok.

I have a 12v feed to the motor

Still no difflock lights or noises.

 

[Mikeharris1992]

So left to right

Continuity to Earth yes

Nothing at all no power or earth nothing

12v

Continuity to Earth

Continuity to earth

 

[Mikeharris1992]

Got the motor out

 

[Mikeharris1992]

Took it apart

Is there a way of powering it up?

 

[Mikeharris1992]

shoukd the motor turn?

This feels like a spring is stopping me once back together and cleaned best I can

 

[Mikeharris1992]

Ran out of time so put it back together

The one wheel drive landcruiser will have to stay like this until I can get more info.

 

[Mikeharris1992]

So, no blown fuses.

1 out of three switches work, even the one that does work I don't think works properly as serious force has to be applied to work.

With the plugs fooled with a paper clip pushing the switch in the cabin makes a relay click, intermitent though, it's now stopped completely.

With plugs fooled, have power to motor, took motor apart checked feeds in across and round to motor, for breaks they are ok, cleaned up best I could, still doesn't work, when activated with power probe blow fuses in probe.

Motor doesn't turn, not sure if it's supposed to by hand.

Even with switches fooled at no point has the centre diff lock light come up in the dash, or any low range lights either.

I'm now pretty sure it's not really going to be fixable with what I have.

 

[Mikeharris1992]

So I've been thinking, a mate of mine used a cruiser box in his suzuki to make twin transfer boxes. To get around the centre diff lock on a lj70 box which is vacuum operated I suggested a manual conversion.

I'm thinking of doing similar on my amazon.

I think would need to be able to turn it through about 280 degrees I think, as that's how far the stop is inside the motor.

Can you guys see any reason why this wouldn't work?

 

[Iwan]

The lj doesn't have a cdl. It's for the H2 to H4 operation... It's a different design of transfer compared to the 80 and 100 transfer.

There is a way to operate the diff locks on the front/rear on an 80 where the electronic actuator is replaced with an air operated cylinder that is run from a vacume solenoid.

 

[Mikeharris1992]

Sorry I miserote what I meant but you can see my idea

Yes my freind Jerry did this many years ago with hilux lockers too.

I'm now thinking of moving the gear to the locked position on the cdl and fitting free wheeling Hubs in the front.

I'm going to convert the rear locker to cable I think.

 

[Mikeharris1992]

Does anyone know what if any position the transfer box Switches need to be in for the rear diff lock to enagage, or is it completely sepearte to the centre? Surely the centre has to be locked for rear to work?

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Yes, the centre one has to be locked for the rear to be activated, so the switch on the transfer that detects CDL needs to make the circuit.

It's usually a reliable system that works well, so if you fix it, it should stay working, well. If you convert to cable / free wheeling hubs etc I think you'll spend more time and money than if you just fix the problem with the standard system and it'll quite possibly be less reliable, just simpler.

 

[Mikeharris1992]

Motor is knackered and all all three switches don't work, Hubs are £80 online, I can't have a 1wd cruiser it's useless.

I completely agree with you but doesn't work on a truck like mine that's got lots wrong with it that's used and abused, 318k beaten old cruiser. Bits will be at least a couple of hundred quid, needs a nsf drive flange anyway as it's work out, so it makes sense to me.

 

[Mikeharris1992]

Ordered some free wheeling Hubs today I will lock the transfer box and fit the Hubs and see what it goes like.

 

[Mikeharris1992]

So hubs went on, removed seized centre diff lock motor manually put it in diff lock down in the tbox by winding the gear round, put the seized motor back in

Front Hubs in free position.

Drives really nice, steering is light and a lot less transmission slack / slop, take up of drive is really nice.

I'm very pleased !

I know have a landcruiser I can get front and rear drive at the same time !

 

[Aussie Doug]

Hi Mike,

I posted this today.

Hi Cruiser Folks,

I have enjoyed reading all the posts over the last few months, as just purchased recently 98 HZJ 105R Auto.
vehicle pretty stock except for Safari turbo & inter-cooler on the 1HZ, and a Ironman front bar !

Now begins the journey building tourer with 19 year old son, with hopefully a 60 series to follow or another 100 series !

I have read many threads with diff lock issues from 80 to 100 series, they all have slightly different scenarios !

Hopefully someone can shed some light here.

Firstly when the ignition is switched on there is no centre diff lock light to see, or when the car is started and the switch on the dash is pressed, still no light or sign of activation ?
vehicle drives fine with no shudder if locked on ? furthermore i have pulled apart the glove-box area to try and locate the centre diff lock relay, do you think i could find it
however when I select low range i can here the relay clicking in glove-box area ! but no light on dash ? can the relay still be partially faulty ?

Next i have removed the transfer indicator switch from top of centre diff, from another (post) i tried tapping it gently running some voltage through via battery and multi meter, and cleaned with lectra fluid, when transfer switch pushed in it appears to have continuity with meter, but maybe flaky ?

Going back should the dash light come on anyway even if relay, dash switch & transfer switch are faulty ?

I haven't jacked up car to check actuator operation or pulled out dash switch and check with multi meter.

Hopefully some of you good folk can assist here.

Doug

 

[TLK914]

Think of it from 1st gen diagnostic strategy. The Center diff (transfer case) is the primary component of locking. If it isnt locked, dont worry about front or rear, they cannot and will not activate until the center has activated AND its lock-engaged signal is seen by the module (represented by the lock lamp illuminating on the dash). You say you verified bulb function so your primary focus 1st should be on getting the center diff to lock and show it (Light ON). As instructed, 1st shift trans and then Tcase to neutral, depress your DIFF LOCK at this time. THEN you may or may not hear the center diff lock, and the TCase Diff LAMP should illuminate if it worked. Its either ON or OFF. When its ON, its engaged and worked.
Once you achieve that, you can then shift to 4low and D, and at that time expect the front or rear diffs to try to work. TILL you achieve that, (OR cheat by unplugging the Tcase lock position switch and jumping the pins to simulate center diff lock ON for testing purposes).
Toyotas operator strategy was never well printed/published. But it has always been a constant:
1 Vehicle at rest, Actvate NEUTRAL TCASE
2 SWITCH TCASE(Center DIff) LOCK ON (Cluster lamp should turn on!).
3 Activate LOW TCASE. Then SHIFT TO FORWARD GEAR(R OK too but do this after Tcase LOW engaged)
4 ACTIVATE DESIRED F/RR LOCK(Drive/Spin slowly to allow slide movement.) wait for lamps to show yes or no.

Pin switches are a commmon fault, and easy to test. Paperclip testing works. Motors are NOT a common fault.

Dont ask whats wrong unless you check the basics. Did you attempt the right order, did you see the right lights. Do the position lights turn on if jumpered?

 

[Mikeharris1992]

Bin it all ! Go mechanical

 

[TLK914]

You removed teh cover of the motor. Thats...not disastrous but understand, its clock aligned. It only works properly if reinstalled in the exact position it needs to be, Reclocking can be, fun. rotate the contacts so the the gap contact is near the contact springs or on one. Wont know which side is up but its not important, Reinstall and activate system (When it tries to be working). if it works in neither direction you are 180 off. If it works fine in 1 direction but only barely works in the other, you are off a tooth on the gear alignment. Remove again, rotate 1 tooth...reinstalll till it turns ON and OFF with no flickers or scraping or stuttering. leave it there.
As to switch conditions, there are 3 inputs monitored. initially the Park neutral switch must tell it its in Neutral and the TCase neutral must say the center diff is neutral. IF those are all in agreeent, AND you dont have a blown motor fuse or bad wiring, the motor will then rotate when the center diff switch is activated. If it DOES NOT, you need to check the 2 neutral switches to make sure they are OPEN/OL when not in Neutral(s), and go to GROUND when in Neutral. If they do, you also then should check your Tcase LOW switch for function (ground it, tcase lamp should turn on, unground it turns off). If its grounded and light isnt on, then you have a broken wire. It only self grounds when the Tcase shifts to low and physically pushes it. If its grounded at the switch but the light isnt ON, you have a bad bulb or a broken wire and you said you checked the bulb. The tcase position switch is usually the one closes to the motor itself.. The other 2 are farther away and close together.