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Clive's HZJ80

Its a good job you don't watch where your going or you might have missed that :lol: not even at the half way mark yet i hope mate :thumbup:

I'll ignore the first bit.... :icon-rolleyes:

That's the idea Shayne, I'm holding Mr T to his word, there's a sticker somewhere on the engine saying its a 1,000,000 km unit... :lol:

Unlike you, I'm volunteering to be buried in mine when my time comes, it won't fetch much on the market by then, so it might even be cheaper than having a wooden box made up :lol:
 
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Kids will be going to school in flying saucers by then so your right it won't be worth a penny , but you can leave it to me if you like just so i can dispose of it in an environmentally friendly way of course :whistle:
 
That's the idea Shayne, I'm holding Mr T to his word, there's a sticker somewhere on the engine saying its a 1,000,000 km unit... :lol:

[\QUOTE]

I understand the museum at Toyota has a 80 series Landcruiser with a million miles/Km recorded without a engine strip down. It was clocked up by a Australian railway company. Though I am not 100% sure.
 
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I'm sure 1,000,000 km isn't unrealistic, mine had been abused up to 11 years old at 212 k km, self confessed by the previous owner, but since then, oil and filter changes have been by the book.

Gearbox and transmission oils had never been changed, so it's had a new lease of life since I got it, they all get changed every year now.

Nothing has ever gone wrong with the engine, I've had the tappets re-shimmed and the BEBs have been done, but neither were really necessary. Other than that, I've only replaced the timing belt, and tensioner at the recommended times, nothing has ever "broken" on the engine.

Of course, this morning, as it tripped over to 400k km, the T belt light came on :lol:, so that will be done next week along with the engine oil and all the filters, and I'll have all the transmission oils changed as well, while its in.

It will see me out I'm sure :icon-biggrin:
 
I'm sure 1,000,000 km isn't unrealistic, mine had been abused up to 11 years old at 212 k km, self confessed by the previous owner, but since then, oil and filter changes have been by the book.

Gearbox and transmission oils had never been changed, so it's had a new lease of life since I got it, they all get changed every year now.

Nothing has ever gone wrong with the engine, I've had the tappets re-shimmed and the BEBs have been done, but neither were really necessary. Other than that, I've only replaced the timing belt, and tensioner at the recommended times, nothing has ever "broken" on the engine.

Of course, this morning, as it tripped over to 400k km, the T belt light came on :lol:, so that will be done next week along with the engine oil and all the filters, and I'll have all the transmission oils changed as well, while its in.

It will see me out I'm sure :icon-biggrin:

Congrats! Up to 500K!
 
Looks like I've abandoned my own thread, so to bring it to the top again, got some new boots to put on the spare set...

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9 wheels on my wagon.... :lol:

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Comical how the cats' eyes in the back of the truck have lit up in the flash... :lol:
 
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Can't beat a set of new boots :icon-cool:
Ordering mine next week.
 
Can't beat a set of new boots :icon-cool:
Ordering mine next week.

Took me ages to get these, great to have some good rubber on the offroad set.

These will go in the shed, initially for off asphalt use only, at least until the set on the truck have scrubbed down to a couple of mm on the black stuff.

There's a good 7 or 8mm on them, but the blocks are too rounded for winter on the hill, they don't grip like they should anymore.

In the meantime, I'll continue the search for a set of 5 ATs for winter road use, in the size I want, BFG KO2s in 305/70/16 or 75s, so if anyone sees them at the right price, I'm interested.

I've had loads of offers on KOs and promises of KO2s that have turned out to be KOs :icon-rolleyes:

Quite frustrating really... :?
 
So while I was away, my friendly helper took my truck for a week and in his spare time tried to wire in the leather seat heaters (the seats I salvaged from a Mazda 8).

Anyway after a day of pulling his hair out he gave up, something about them being controlled from the donor Mazda ECU or computer or some such, but he offered me an aftermarket heat-pad installation.

It’s in and works great, it has seat-back and seat-pad with a 10-position setting, and cost about 25 quid a seat. :dance:

No more freezing bum when its -20C outside.

I tried it out today and its like toast! Once warm I turned it down to to the lowest setting which was just right, I don’t think ill need more than that at any temp outside.

We'll see, roll on -20C.... :lol:
 
I don’t know what the tailgate versions of the 80 are like when it’s pitch dark, but with my ambulance type rear doors, there’s no light any where near where you need it in the load area.

But that’s all in the past now.... bam!

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In each corner are 2 rows of 3 LEDs all switched from the one corner with a mini rocker, just great. You can even see the mess Ana makes, especially when she’s got her friends with her, it’s like a farm in the back of our truck.

And now she has her own personal twin USB charge point as well...

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All mod-cons :lol:
 
For the real gurus amongst us, I’m scheduled for new front brake pads, do these warning lights signify low brake fluid level?

If yes than it figures.

If no, can anyone advise what they mean, please?

Please ignore the timing belt, that light has been on for 10,000km, since the last change.

Everything is running as well as ever, temp is normal and a full rad, oil pressure is normal and good on my pillar gauge (dash pod gauge is disconnected), alternator is pushing 14.2V...

I’ve never seen (orange bottom left and square red top right) these come on when driving, in almost 12 years of ownership... :think:

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Bottom left, your fuel filter needs thecwster draining from it. Put a small bowl under it, or jam jar and a bit of fuel type hose often helps too. There's a wing nut with a hose tail on the base of the filter. Unscrew and let the water out. Screw back in when diesel comes out.

Top right, alternator light. Try wiggling the plug on the back of the alternator. Even giving it a knock or two might help free stuck brushes. Otherwise it's acreplacement or remove the unit and inspect. Check your voltage at the battery while running before doing anything then after each thing you do. Should be 14.4v max and at least 13.8 if at idle.
 
Bottom left, your fuel filter needs thecwster draining from it. Put a small bowl under it, or jam jar and a bit of fuel type hose often helps too. There's a wing nut with a hose tail on the base of the filter. Unscrew and let the water out. Screw back in when diesel comes out.

Top right, alternator light. Try wiggling the plug on the back of the alternator. Even giving it a knock or two might help free stuck brushes. Otherwise it's acreplacement or remove the unit and inspect. Check your voltage at the battery while running before doing anything then after each thing you do. Should be 14.4v max and at least 13.8 if at idle.

Mmmm, well thanks for the comprehensive reply Rich.

I’ve just had the fuel filter replaced, on Monday, along with oil change and oil and air filters, so I wonder if they’ve disturbed some connections or something similar. I’ll have a look today.

As for the alternator, it’s been on for about 2 years, but there’s 14.2V when running, at the meter I’ve got permanently installed, so maybe it just needs a jiggle of the plug.

Brake pads are on order so they’ll go on next week.

Thanks mate.:thumbup:
 
Sounds minimal in that case Clive. It may be the insulation has cracked and fallen away and they have twisted the wires together when screwing the fuel filter on. Seems like the alternator could just be the light connection or even a fault in the regulator causing the light to stay on. Hopefully not your wiring gremlins at work. :pray:
 
If you have changed the alternator light bulb to an LED bulb that may be the problem as I think the light always has a little power going through it but not enough to illuminate a normal bulb... The low fuel bulb normally does not like to be LED either.
 
If you have changed the alternator light bulb to an LED bulb that may be the problem as I think the light always has a little power going through it but not enough to illuminate a normal bulb... The low fuel bulb normally does not like to be LED either.
Useful to know Rich. Thanks for posting.
 
Thanks Rich and Richard.

I’ve found the LED replacements in the dash are generally a PITA, so I do know whaat you mean.

However, the LEDs were installed 3 or more years ago, and apart from the annoying flashing that they do, the warning lights showing now, have not been amongst the disco dancers.

These 2 came on together last night, they’re not as bright as when you first switch on the ignition, but they’re not dim like a “leak” they shine like the (equally annoying) T belt light that won’t switch off.

Anywa y, I’ll pull the alternator plug if I can, Andy give that clean-up. If that doesn’t work I’ll have a look at the water separator wires.

I’m sure the problem of the two warning lights is connected, it’s a hell of a coincidence if they’re not.
 
Somewhere gathering dust in the archive section in the very back of my one functioning brain cell, I seem to remember that a certain fuse or fusible link may be the culprit. I've got no more certainty on this than to say give them all a quick check just in case. Dome fuse and fusible links being the first port of call.
 
I went through the basics.

Alternator plug off, all looks clean, baco, off back on, just to be sure the connectors are cutting together.

Drained the water separator butterfly, but only diesel came out.

Checked the wiring around the fuel filter, no obvious damage to insulation...

Still the same, so maybe it is a fuse as you suggest Rich.

Must admit, the warning lights are much dimmer in the daytime than they are on switch-on, but at night they look bright enough not to be ignored.
 
Had this on my 60 Clive. Drained the separator, changed a relay etc etc. But nothing changed.
It turned out to need an alternator rebuild!!
 
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