diff actuators

[Guest]

Hi Guys
I was just wondering if I do get around to looking at the diff actuators to
see if they work properly what am I looking at/for. I know they are little
boxes on the axles but after that well nothing.
Do I have to take them apart and look at the wiring or something else, how
do I know what to do to fix them. If any one has taken one apart give me all
the horror stories about all the little bits that I can lose or the cost if
I do something wrong or the loss of my cruiser if I mess up etc.
I still have not changed over to the synthetic for the engine cause im still
waiting on the engine flush from the guy, good job im in no hurry now isn't
it.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland

 

[Guest]

Hi John,
If you are used to the vehicle and diff locks you can generally test
them by driving around a muddy field, however if you don't know what
you are looking for it is best to check it manually as follows:
To check the diff lock actuators on an axle do the following:
Jack the axle up so that the wheels are off the ground - ideally stick
it up on axle stands. Only jack up one end of the vehicel at a time.
Put the car into Low Range to lock up the central diff lock or use the
Centre Diff Lock switch if you have one.
Put the car in gear/Drive and turn the ignition on. When you do this
you should hear the whirr/click from the transfer case as the power
engages the centre diff lock.
Now with the centre diff locked, when you turn one of the wheels on the
raised axle the opposite wheel should turn in the opposite direction -
this is expected behaviour.
Now engage the diff lock switch making sure that it is set to lock the
diff that you are working on - when you turn the rotary switch you
should hear a wirring/click noise as the actuator attempts to lock the
diff - don't worry if you don't hear anything - my front diff lock is
silent, but my back one is quite noisey - they vary quite a bit.
The actuator will engage the locking mechanism, however the actual diff
might not lock straight away purely because the gears aren't lined up.
For example I have driven across some really boggy fields with the diff
lock light flashing but the locks not engaging because the wheels
haven't been slipped enough for the mechanism to rotate enough to
engage. To simulate the slipping, rotate one of the raised wheels -
you should hear a click as the diff locks and then you will find that
you can't turn the wheels anymore (because the centre diff is also
locked and other wheels on the other axle are on the ground and unable
to rotate).
Sometimes you might find the diffs locking, but the light still flash
indicating that they haven't locked yet - this could either be down to
faulty sensor or wiring (quite common) or the actuator has been removed
and incorrectly re-installed so the it is moving enough to engage the
diff lock, but not enough to touch the sensor.
If the wheels don't lock, then it is possible that the actuator has
seized - this can happen if the car has been through a lot of water
and/or the diff locks have hardly been used (most likely with your
average UK 80). If that is the case your only option is to remove the
actuator, strip it down and rebuild it which is whole different story;
-)
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift

 

[Guest]

Hi John,
If you are used to the vehicle and diff locks you can generally test
them by driving around a muddy field, however if you don't know what
you are looking for it is best to check it manually as follows:
To check the diff lock actuators on an axle do the following:
Jack the axle up so that the wheels are off the ground - ideally stick
it up on axle stands. Only jack up one end of the vehicel at a time.
Put the car into Low Range to lock up the central diff lock or use the
Centre Diff Lock switch if you have one.
Put the car in gear/Drive and turn the ignition on. When you do this
you should hear the whirr/click from the transfer case as the power
engages the centre diff lock.
Now with the centre diff locked, when you turn one of the wheels on the
raised axle the opposite wheel should turn in the opposite direction -
this is expected behaviour.
Now engage the diff lock switch making sure that it is set to lock the
diff that you are working on - when you turn the rotary switch you
should hear a wirring/click noise as the actuator attempts to lock the
diff - don't worry if you don't hear anything - my front diff lock is
silent, but my back one is quite noisey - they vary quite a bit.
The actuator will engage the locking mechanism, however the actual diff
might not lock straight away purely because the gears aren't lined up.
For example I have driven across some really boggy fields with the diff
lock light flashing but the locks not engaging because the wheels
haven't been slipped enough for the mechanism to rotate enough to
engage. To simulate the slipping, rotate one of the raised wheels -
you should hear a click as the diff locks and then you will find that
you can't turn the wheels anymore (because the centre diff is also
locked and other wheels on the other axle are on the ground and unable
to rotate).
Sometimes you might find the diffs locking, but the light still flash
indicating that they haven't locked yet - this could either be down to
faulty sensor or wiring (quite common) or the actuator has been removed
and incorrectly re-installed so the it is moving enough to engage the
diff lock, but not enough to touch the sensor.
If the wheels don't lock, then it is possible that the actuator has
seized - this can happen if the car has been through a lot of water
and/or the diff locks have hardly been used (most likely with your
average UK 80). If that is the case your only option is to remove the
actuator, strip it down and rebuild it which is whole different story;
-)
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift

 

[Guest]

Hey Julian
Thanks for that info, it does seem quite easy to check.the way you have
explained it.
Its quite horrible to even think of going out in the cold to look at things
to do with the cruiser.
I would have thought that when I start the engine up and put it in gear
while on the axle stands it would drive off , but it would seem to not be
the case.
How or what is involved in stripping or cleaning the actuators if I find one
that is not working. OK im only messing about starting the engine, not a
hope ill do that, RELAX..
cheers
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Rep of Ireland

 

[Guest]

Hi John,
A lot. The key thing is to make sure that the screws on the face plates are
given a good daily dosing of WD40 for a week or more before removing.
I don't have time to do a full write up now, but will do when you find you have
a problem with them.
I was wondering!
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift

 

[Guest]

Hi John,
A lot. The key thing is to make sure that the screws on the face plates are
given a good daily dosing of WD40 for a week or more before removing.
I don't have time to do a full write up now, but will do when you find you have
a problem with them.
I was wondering!
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift

 

[Guest]

Hi John
I need to rebuild my rear actuator I think. Biting my nails at the prospect!
You might find this link handy?
http://www.safari4x4.com.au/80scool/tech/factory_diff_locks.html
Pete
Julian Voelcker wrote:

 

[Guest]

Hi Peter,
One of the biggest problems I have had working on them is trying to
remove the cover plate without shearing off the small screws - I think
the only thing you can do is to just make sure it is well and truly
soaked in WD40 and also make sure you have access to a drill press and
some very small stud extractors or taps in case it all goes horribly
wrong.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift

 

[Guest]

Hi Peter,
One of the biggest problems I have had working on them is trying to
remove the cover plate without shearing off the small screws - I think
the only thing you can do is to just make sure it is well and truly
soaked in WD40 and also make sure you have access to a drill press and
some very small stud extractors or taps in case it all goes horribly
wrong.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift

 

[Guest]

Hi Julian
Thanks for that info, that leaves me out so I think if they dont work I may
have to leave it in to Toy cause if it can go wrong it will with me. Ah sure
it was nice to dream again about being able to do another job on the cruiser
but it was just not meant to be.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
SNIP

 

[Guest]

Hi John,
If you are having problems with them you would be better off doing it yourself,
it may not be true with your local dealer, but I know of others who have had
problems and the dealers have just sold them new actuators - they don't
service/repair these things.
Also you probably now know more about it than the dealers!
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift

 

[Guest]

Hi John,
If you are having problems with them you would be better off doing it yourself,
it may not be true with your local dealer, but I know of others who have had
problems and the dealers have just sold them new actuators - they don't
service/repair these things.
Also you probably now know more about it than the dealers!
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift