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Diff Drop Kit
- Thread starter fridayman
- Start date
It depends how much bash plate you want left when you've done. Why do you want a diff drop kit? Not really necessary unless you have done something extreme at which point a diff drop isn't going to be enough. Let me have a look, we really did go over all this about two weeks ago. A standard 2" sup lift doesn't not need any more mods.
C
C
fridayman
Well-Known Member
I have fitted an Ironman 2" lift which only lifted the front 15mm. So I fitted the 15mm spacers (advised by Paul at West Coast) and I now have 50-55mm lift. I will take a pic of the CV's and post it up so you can tell me what you think.
Chris Green90
Well-Known Member
The post Chris was talking about is this one (I Think)
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=11101
Don't want to put words into your mouth Chris
Chris
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=11101
Don't want to put words into your mouth Chris
Chris
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That shouldn't need a diff drop. Here's the last thread where we discussed it (mostly page 2). I have had a look and there are other threads that I posted on the 90 section with mental CV angles due to a spacer lift. That's a no no. Something wrong if you fitted a 2" lift and only got 15mm.
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=11101&start=10
It's all be thrashed many times really. Diff drop with plates is a problem. Big CV angles can't be cured on a 90 with a diff drop anyway you need to drop the top ball joints (Ball Joint Drop Kit) and as yet we haven't found a 90 compatible BJDK.
Chris
Hey Chris looks like we were searing the same thing
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=11101&start=10
It's all be thrashed many times really. Diff drop with plates is a problem. Big CV angles can't be cured on a 90 with a diff drop anyway you need to drop the top ball joints (Ball Joint Drop Kit) and as yet we haven't found a 90 compatible BJDK.
Chris
Hey Chris looks like we were searing the same thing
It's your dollar, but if it was worth it, we'd all have done it too, wouldn't we?
Looking at the angle of your top wishbones is the key thing; that's where the crucial angles are best observed. Your CV is DESIGNED to work through angles. The difference between the max deflection that you had before the lift and the max deflection that you are getting now won't be that much. The CV will spend most of its life only a few degrees different as you drive along the road. And unless you drive like TP off road you won't break anything. If you, it seems not to be the CV anyway but the section of shaft after the torpid joint going into the diff but again unlikely unless you have a locker fitted to the front.
Chris
Looking at the angle of your top wishbones is the key thing; that's where the crucial angles are best observed. Your CV is DESIGNED to work through angles. The difference between the max deflection that you had before the lift and the max deflection that you are getting now won't be that much. The CV will spend most of its life only a few degrees different as you drive along the road. And unless you drive like TP off road you won't break anything. If you, it seems not to be the CV anyway but the section of shaft after the torpid joint going into the diff but again unlikely unless you have a locker fitted to the front.
Chris
fridayman
Well-Known Member
It looks like the front is settling a little bit. Here is what it looks like now:
The wheel alignment definitely needs doing, but I will probably wait until I've done the lower control arm bushes and the inner tie ends - hopefully this weekend if all the bits arrive tomorrow.
The wheel alignment definitely needs doing, but I will probably wait until I've done the lower control arm bushes and the inner tie ends - hopefully this weekend if all the bits arrive tomorrow.
Red Oktober
Well-Known Member
those angles look fine ... i wouldn't put a diff drop kit on if it were my truck
I have about the same lift in the front as you do. I installed the Sonoran steel diff drop, on the front. In my case, it does make a difference, from moderate vibration to very slight vibration, if any. The bash plates needed to be modified slightly (with a grinder, per the instructions). And, I installed some large square washers, to act as spacers, for a more secure mounting, and to ensure the bash plate didn't touch the diff mounts. The result is that the bash plate sits about 1 cm lower, in the middle.
You can see my CV angles at: http://www.tlocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopi ... highlight=
Cheers,
BlueRock
You can see my CV angles at: http://www.tlocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopi ... highlight=
Cheers,
BlueRock
Chris Green90
Well-Known Member
Sorry to try and resurect a dead and gone topic guys, was looking throught this months TOR and the guy on the front cover with the paj has a 4" sus lift. he gained 2" on the front by winding up the torsion bars then flipping the front ball joints tying the upper wishbones to the uprights. Thats it, no new springs or struts. How different is the paj from the 90, next door neighbour has one but not really got underneath both to compare. would flipping the ball joints help any if wanting to go more than 2"
chris lc90
Active Member
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2010
- Messages
- 88
Chris said:
chris what exactly do you mean?do you have any pictures of this kit?
Sorry Chris - as the thread says, we haven't found one for the 90 so it's a bit tricky so show you a picture.
When you raise the front suspension, the top wishbone drops so far that it hits the spring. The ball joint drop kit is essentially a spacer that fits where the top ball joint it, to push the wishbone back up again and restore normality.
Make sense?
Chris
When you raise the front suspension, the top wishbone drops so far that it hits the spring. The ball joint drop kit is essentially a spacer that fits where the top ball joint it, to push the wishbone back up again and restore normality.
Make sense?
Chris
chris lc90
Active Member
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2010
- Messages
- 88
definitely clear,masterChris said:
