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Diff lock dash lights

Howmanygoes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2019
Messages
749
Country Flag
england
newbee question

When engaging Low ratio, centre diff lock engages (yellow dash light on). Then when I activate rear diff lock, I don’t hear anything noticeable (though will get wife to active it whilst I have a listen from outside). Dash I get a red flashing light and abs light comes on. Is this correct?
 
Maybe. If the RDL light flashes slowly, it means that the switch on the dash is turned on, but the RDL not engaged. If it flashes fast, the RDL is (supposed to be) engaged, but not confirmed by the sensor switch. When the RDL actuator is engaged (fast flashing or solid), the actuator motor has whirred for about a second, and the spring is tensioned to push the locker when it's aligned. So, the two rear wheels might have to be allowed to move a bit in relation to each other in order for it to actually lock. (Same goes for unlocking as well).
If you have the ignition on, engine off, in a quiet place, you should hear the actuator when standing next to the car with the hand on the switch.
It is not uncommon that the actuator gets stuck because of lack of exercise, or that it corrodes to pieces over about 10 years.
It is also not uncommon that the sensor switch doesn't work, while the RDL still works OK, in which case the light will never turn solid. Mine has been like that for 9 years now, but still works just fine.
 
I tired to upload a video but it kept failing (only 8mb) it’s flashing slowly, Are the actuators serviceable. I haven’t tried to hear it yet as it’s been raining in the evening and I can’t get Tom in the garage... surprising I know
 
Had. A look and listen this afternoon. Tried driving back and forward on the drive to see if it engaged... nope....No noise . Looks relatively simple to take off subject to rusty bolts, I assume it’s worth checking power to it before dismantling or, given the fact the light comes on, is this established already.
 
No. Light doesn't mean power to actuator. The actuator motors fail after a few years. Much faster if you drive on salted roads, or beach. The salt will kill not only the motor, but also the aluminium housing or flange. Sometimes the motor needs just some tlc: maybe cleanup, glue magnets and new brushes.
 
Update: rear actuator seized. Bought a secondhand one with warranty from eBay. Will then just ensure it’s regularly used.
 
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