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Diff rebuild /ratios for 1997 80 series 1hdft

I think intercooler and bigger turbo or more boost will help with on road and rolling towing but TBH om my 285 /75's first gear is a bit too high even when not towing for casual off road trundling around....I'm often either going just a fraction too fast at idle or in low box....same if stuck in traffic just rolling at tickover is too fast..... I've been in low box on the M25 before now just so I can trickle along in a traffic hold up !
 
Done the same Grimbo. I've had both manual and auto and I've yet to come across a situation, personally, where I have thought, wow, so glad I have a manual. That includes off road, on road, towing, recovering or anything at all. I'd have a 24v auto with lockers as my number one choice if I could. Once up to speed though, the thingis so torquey that you feel like you're driving an auto. It's that traffic bit that makes it a chore.
 
I see, seems like that will be a good setup for me:thumbup: Will see...
Regarding G turbo, Sounds good and i like that idea a lot :D, but firstly need to do a proper service on everything so i know that everything is in order and in good working condition. After all that i can think about upgrading the turbo, if it will be needed( it is always needed):D but Still quite a lot to do.
Luckily i don't have to deal with traffic over here, therefore i am absolutely loving the fact that it is a manual.
 
Chris you may be wrong on fitting locked diffs into none locked axle housing, a small and simple cut in the side of the circle and move 2 x studs and you have a lockered axle ready to take the diffs.
 
I might be but I don't think I am. The locker itself, not the diff, requires an entirely different casing in order to mount to the axle. There are racks, sensor holes, slide rod carriers and all sorts of gubbins that are required.
 
To fit locking diffs in a none locker axle is simple. the lockers mount on the diff not the casing
 
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Yes of course they do. I hadn't had my coffee! However there is still a difference in the casing itself which I am no so convinced is a five minute job to wrangle. You say small simple cut and move two studs, I'd have no problem doing that at all, but not quite as easy for everyone without making a complete mess of it. Something to be planned I think not just attacked on a Sunday afternoon with Dad's old Black & Decker.
 
The only extra part needed is a rear offside drive shaft with the longer spline to fit into the locker. oh no you need a complete work shop with a 2 post ramp, grinders. drills and tap set apart from that a degree in mechanical engineering and a coffee machine. simple.
 
I'd prefer tea if possible
 
If you're cutting the non locker axle. Are you not cutting away the raised area? So would you need to add some height to the aperture around the cut section.

To do so would you need to remove the axle to build it up and then machine it down to the original height... if so why not fit the correct locking axle case?

Just wondering how the gear oil is contained inside the axle.
 
If you're cutting the non locker axle. Are you not cutting away the raised area? So would you need to add some height to the aperture around the cut section.

To do so would you need to remove the axle to build it up and then machine it down to the original height... if so why not fit the correct locking axle case?

Just wondering how the gear oil is contained inside the axle.

You're cutting a notch into part of the raised area, but not removing all of it. It ends up being exactly the same as the locker version of the casing.
 
Does anybody who has done it have any pictures? Would love to see how much of a custom wizardry is necessary :)
 
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