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Dip beams dead

Reason for asking about the parking lights and number plate lighs is they seem to go through that integration relay so if they work, it cant be totally dead...
 
Wel what I’m hoping for is when I replace my lights/indicator stalk, all will be well,

But i wanted to do the research b4 hand and see if any educated opinions could keep me on the straight and narrow b4 I pull the pull the entire black red wire out of the yota cause it looked and me funny and smelled of scorched grease at 3am of a Sunday night…….and wasn’t even related to a relay or light for that matter……..
 
Hi everyone.
Just thought it might help someone later.

I fitted my new headlight/flasher stalk
(Right handed one extremely rare to get it seems)

It seemed to have fixed my dead dip beams and is behaving as it should

Hover I have spotted that I wired my dips and head backwards
(So that another days fiddling)

I read here or on another forum…..
……. 12v goes through the stalk and because I burned out the contacts in the stalk any signal could not get past the stalk through to the relays in the fuse box and thus to the dips or headlights.

Thanks for help and advice along the way tho.
I’ll stick up a photo of my headlight mods later…….happy with the look but performance is yet to be confirmed…..
 
The prado uses a system that senses the load from the head light globe if you relace the stock fillament type with led you need to buy the load canbus from ebay to add extra load as led have near none you will find also that if you have any aux lights running of the high beam circuit that they along with your high beam dash indicator will not work
 
The prado uses a system that senses the load from the head light globe if you relace the stock fillament type with led you need to buy the load canbus from ebay to add extra load as led have near none you will find also that if you have any aux lights running of the high beam circuit that they along with your high beam dash indicator will not work
Yes Davet!!
Thank you for replying to this.
This be is the answer that has kept me awake at night for months.
It makes so much sense that the loads are different when changing from halogen to led, but I didn’t think that I would need a certain load (or load resistors for that matter) across the headlight circuit to trick it into sending full 12v to the dips.


It’s the last thing for me to try here anyways. But I think you have nailed it.

Get back to you later when I get load resistors fitted and see how big the explosion actually gets…..

Thanks again.
 
Yes Davet!!
Thank you for replying to this.
This be is the answer that has kept me awake at night for months.
It makes so much sense that the loads are different when changing from halogen to led, but I didn’t think that I would need a certain load (or load resistors for that matter) across the headlight circuit to trick it into sending full 12v to the dips.


It’s the last thing for me to try here anyways. But I think you have nailed it.

Get back to you later when I get load resistors fitted and see how big the explosion actually gets…..

Thanks again.
Hope this helps
 

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Hope this helps
Bad news all,
I did splash out (£10) on the load resistors like your pic,
However it still hasn’t fixed the problem.

From my
Initial post at the start,

Now:
All electrics are behaving perfectly through our the rest of the cruiser,
While all other light functions are normal.
Sides/indicators/dips

I do not have any heads beams and I don’t have a blue light on the dash either?

It’s like the Heads circuit Just doesn’t exist to it……
Battery fine,
Alternator fine

And all functions are a working properly on the led units themselves. (Checked with other 12v source)

Again any help would be appreciated immensely.
 
I haven't read through the thread but when my 90 series dipped beam went daft , memory is vague but i remember at one point the dip switch would light up both turn signals instead .

Turned out to be a fault in the steering wheel stalk . I was assured by Toyota and everyone that you cannot replace as single stalk so I bought a used whole clockspring and stalk assembly on ebay .

As my luck would have it the replacement assembly came with a female wiring connector to mate with the female connector on my trucks loom :roll:

Happily though i learned because of this that you can just swap out a single stalk .
 
I haven't read through the thread but when my 90 series dipped beam went daft , memory is vague but i remember at one point the dip switch would light up both turn signals instead .

Turned out to be a fault in the steering wheel stalk . I was assured by Toyota and everyone that you cannot replace as single stalk so I bought a used whole clockspring and stalk assembly on ebay .

As my luck would have it the replacement assembly came with a female wiring connector to mate with the female connector on my trucks loom :roll:

Happily though i learned because of this that you can just swap out a single stalk .
Hi Shane
Yes I have already installed a new headlight stalk (righthand version very hard got)

My only thought is.
The headlight canbus units have only h4 stamped on them. (Even though they have 3 trispade connector for input and output)

I wonder does it only apply correction/resistance load to one circuit (the h4 dip beam circuit) and as a result, it’s doing nothing for the headlight circuit

Would I need 2 load correction/canbus units for one headlight?
One for dip beam circuit
One for headlight circuit.

The wiring in both circuits are fine and working and carring current/power
but the head only have between 1 and 5 volts
 
OK i have read the whole thread this time and see i mentioned the stalk earlier .

It was a long time ago so i can't remember exactly what the problem was but i've a vague notion somebody tore his 90 series apart searching for a short draining his battery and eventually found it behind the fuse box .

If i recall correctly in his case corrosion on the back of the fuse box was the trouble but I figure if something can corrode then it can also get fried ?
 
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