Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

ebay Brake Booster Pumps.... anyone tried one?

sim303

Active Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2017
Messages
73
Country Flag
uk
Hi

Has anyone tried the replacement brake booster pumps that are available on ebay for around £100? Chinese aftermarket obviously.

Mine just started screeching at the weekend so I need to decide between a repair kit, sending it for rebuild, or a brand new ebay aftermarket jobbie.

sim
 
maxspeedingrods is a chinese company that wanted like 20p for a new turbo compared to Toyota wanting me to pull off the next great train robbery .

I spent a week researching them and discovered they make thousands of parts for all different brands sold internationally .

I did not find a single bad review and so bought and fitted the turbo with no regrets ..

On the other hand there is no quality control in china .

Experts in copying just about anything why would they deviate from the original design ?

How do they make it so much cheaper ?

The booster is steel so I'd expect a cheap one to rust and degrade much sooner than genuine parts , but then they might get the steel from exactly to same place as Toyota ?
 
maxspeedingrods is a chinese company that wanted like 20p for a new turbo compared to Toyota wanting me to pull off the next great train robbery .

I spent a week researching them and discovered they make thousands of parts for all different brands sold internationally .

I did not find a single bad review and so bought and fitted the turbo with no regrets ..

On the other hand there is no quality control in china .

Experts in copying just about anything why would they deviate from the original design ?

How do they make it so much cheaper ?

The booster is steel so I'd expect a cheap one to rust and degrade much sooner than genuine parts , but then they might get the steel from exactly to same place as Toyota ?
:sweatsmile:
yeah, who knows... it's a crapshoot. Having just come out of an injector and injector pump overhaul, to discover that the booster pump has started screeching, the quickest route to getting back on the road appears to be a £90 gamble and here in time for the weekend. I would assume it can't be any worse than the knackered one it's replacing :D
 
:sweatsmile:
yeah, who knows... it's a crapshoot. Having just come out of an injector and injector pump overhaul, to discover that the booster pump has started screeching, the quickest route to getting back on the road appears to be a £90 gamble and here in time for the weekend. I would assume it can't be any worse than the knackered one it's replacing :D
and besides, we're talking about a small electric motor here, not some unfathomable alien tech...
 
But why is it screeching? Open up and havalook. Maybe it's just full of "brakefluid-carbondust concrete".
Overfilling brake fluid (read: Not reading the instructions on the lid) is the most common cause.
 
I'm not sure. For expedience I bought a replacement so I could just swap it straight in, but I won't just bin the old one. I'll open it up, perhaps get it reconditioned and keep it as a spare.

There was a lot of powdery dust (aluminium corrosion, by the looks of it) when I broke the old one free from the HBB.

The new pump is now in, and it cycles on and off ok, but it never stops cycling, and the warning beep is still going, even after bleeding etc. (That continuous beep doesn't exactly make for a relaxing work / troubleshooting environment!)

Just had a look at the FSM BR-72 troubleshooting section but a) it expects fancy test equipment and b) the solution to virtually every fault is just "Replace Hydraulic Brake Booster".

Techstream doesn't seem to indicated any codes (which seems odd to me) but the Live Data does report, under ABS, "ECU IG voltate too low". I had a quick check of the battery / alternator output (14.3v) and checked the ABS fuses but all ok as far as I can see.

Looks like this could turn into a saga.....
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
I'm not sure. For expedience I bought a replacement so I could just swap it straight in, but I won't just bin the old one. I'll open it up, perhaps get it reconditioned and keep it as a spare.

There was a lot of powdery dust (aluminium corrosion, by the looks of it) when I broke the old one free from the HBB.

The new pump is now in, and it cycles on and off ok, but it never stops cycling, and the warning beep is still going, even after bleeding etc. (That continuous beep doesn't exactly make for a relaxing work / troubleshooting environment!)

Just had a look at the FSM BR-72 troubleshooting section but a) it expects fancy test equipment and b) the solution to virtually every fault is just "Replace Hydraulic Brake Booster".

Techstream doesn't seem to indicated any codes (which seems odd to me) but the Live Data does report, under ABS, "ECU IG voltate too low". I had a quick check of the battery / alternator output (14.3v) and checked the ABS fuses but all ok as far as I can see.

Looks like this could turn into a saga.....
One thing I need to investigate - the new motor came with a small o-ring which I could not figure out where it was supposed to go. No o-ring came out with the old motor, not was there any evidence of one. I figured maybe, being generic, they include it for certain applications, but now I'm wondering if I missed something and that could be why it can't (apparently) reach pressure.
 
Is it to go between master cylinder and booster ?
 
Is it to go between master cylinder and booster ?
just had a look at the parts manual.... I thought the HBB was considered by Mr T to be one unit so wasn't expecting a breakdown, but....I reckon it could be this? :
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot 2024-06-02 at 10.34.31.png
    Screenshot 2024-06-02 at 10.34.31.png
    100.3 KB · Views: 8
@YardPig I'm going to post some picture of master seal as you request, in next post.

First let me say; I've never had a leak at master to deal with on a 100 series. What I have dealt with on the Master Assembly of the 100 series is corrosion of control wire that connects between ABS to pump motor, dead booster motor and failed ABS unit. That is in order of issue that I see most often.

When I use to work on GM, Ford, Chrysler, etc. I was rebuilding master cylinder often. They would leak at plunger seals. We could see this fairly easily by looking in foot well around master or something in engine bay on firewall just below master.

I just don't see this on Series 100. I'm not saying the seals of plunger don't fail. Just that I've not had to deal with. IMHO the number one reason the plunger seal failure may be related to brake fluid. Either not flushing fluid as often enough or adding "wrong or bad" fluid that's damaging to components. Toyota did have a recall (2005-07 IIRC) for master seals, but not on the 100 series. It seems the issue was with adding non Toyota fluid causing seals to fail. My money was on the rubber that was used. As any DOT I, II or III should have worked just fine, but didn't.

Keep in mind we are only talking about master assembly herein this thread. But be aware, the parts down stream like caliper piston seal, flexible & hard lines we're seeing fail more and more with age. Inspection is key!

I'll state what I feel is obvious as to which leaks/failed seals in the 100 series need addressing. But first I'll restate something that was just posted in the "Brake failure thread". It is the one part that will fail and with little to no warning, no matter how well we maintain or inspect. It will cause brake failure or at least until all but bottom of peddle travel and then very little braking. This is the Booster motor. The motor has brush that wear out. Interestingly I've found commutator worn-out (dead spots) and bushes still have enough material to last for hundreds if not thousands of hours. I'm seeing this failures around 250K miles. BUT Miles aren't the key to motor life, it's hours of motor run time. City stop and go drive using brakes often vs all HWY miles is obviously going to have motor run more and so failing at lower miles. Other issues can cause motor to run often such as moisture in fluid, air in system (fluid), leak(s), weak accumulator. It's also possible for the ABS to not delivery current to the motor or the resistance wire to go bad. But I'm just seeing motors bad. In any case, if that motor fails, booster pressure is not regained with use and peddle will go to the floor.

I've been replacing motor and cleaning up wires for those that are on a tight budget. But really the best is to just go ahead and replace the accumulator assembly with new in our aging fleet. I found www.partsouq.com has the best deal at $800. It includes motor, pump, accumulator and wire.
Accumulator assembly circled in black

MASTER Accumulator pump assembly.jpg


Here is wire corrosion I find in about 30% of all rigs I've inspected. Why...it may be related to overfilling reservoir more than anything else.
00LX 245K brake booster pump failure 7-5-18 (2).JPG






Last edited: Jan 25, 2019

Master thread, with index to many helpful links.

2007 LC Restore & off road build (Merlot) Scored 2007 LC W/63K No AHC .. Pre sold/Sold
2007 LX Restore and modified S.A.I test vehicle. (GrayGal) Scored a VVT w/all known issue in the VVT.
2003 LX Restore (Sky) Scored 03LX, w/busted FDS.



  • Like
Reactions:AllLC and Ayune







[IMG alt="2001LC"]https://forum.ih8mud.com/data/avatars/m/28/28583.jpg?1707759065[/IMG]



2001LC


SILVER Star


Joined Nov 4, 2007 Threads 194 Messages 13,350 Location Colorado









As per your request I'll state what I feel is obvious as to which leaks/failed seals.

The plunger has multiple seals on it (see picture above in post # 231) It's the only seals in master assemble that get fiction with every press on the peddle. Weak seals here could be very hard to detect and yield the soft peddle feel of first pump of peddle. Not only reason for first pump soft peddle issue, just one in the system. It could also allow pressure drop (forward seals on plunger) which kicks on booster motor often, without any loss of fluid leak. Rear seals of plunger failure could yield a leak resulting in loss of fluid.
MASTER Plunger.jpg

Reservoir grommet leaks can yield loss of fluid but will not affect brakes per-say, unless fluid gets below minimum. Although fluid may get into boot of wire attracting moisture and may corridor wire and connection.
MASTER reservoir Grommets.jpg

The O-ring of pressure senor seal should be replace if removed. A leak here would be fairly easy to see.
MASTER pressure sensor O-ring.jpg

The pump to accumulator seal (o-ring) would be replaced if removed. A leak here would be fairly easy to see and make it difficult for pump to build pressure in accumulator.
MASTER Accumulator O-ring.jpg

This gasket is not available to my knowledge, it's between booster motor and pump. This appears to just be a moisture and dirt seal. But take care to not damage if separating pump and motor.
00LX 245K brake booster pump failure 7-5-18 (7)c.jpg






Last edited: Jan 25, 2019
 
  • Like
Reactions: uHu
A lot of useful info in there, thank you! I hope I don't end up having to go that deep. Gonna start with the easy thing first and try replacing that accumulator o-ring with the one supplied with the motor.
 
I can take no credit for it as i only copied and pasted it from google search results .
 
A small update.... this problem has now officially reached "saga" status, and is in danger of eclipsing the original problem which it tacked itself on to (faulty injection pump)...

Predictably, the accumulator o-ring was visually fine, and fitting the new one made no difference. (Pump just cycles on/off forever). That was only after welding up a homebrew "SST" to get the accumulator off. Left it for a few days to ponder / sit out the rain, and yesterday discovered a patch of brake fluid on my drive. Most annoying this about this is it has ruined the paint on the chassis rail below. Further investigation revealed that the Tube, Front Brake #1 has now ruptured. I would like to believe that this could be the cause for the pump not reaching pressure, however I suspect that the rupture is new and may only have been caused by moving the pipe to detach it from the Booster. Maybe, maybe not. (It was definitely on its last legs however - corrosion)

So now I have a pending order with Amayama to procure new brake lines for the "Engine Room" in Toyota speak.... They are actually very well priced, and have the proper shape with the crazy spirals etc, but I am waiting to hear whether the shipping realy is indeed ~£30 as provisionally stated. I wouldn't be surprised if they come back and say that, due to awkward size, these parts are only elligible for sea freight (~£750!).

In the meantime I am thinking of blanking off all three outlets of the brake booster with bleed screws, so I can try it again with no downstream leaks / pressure loss. If that's a fail, then I guess I'm looking at either a new motor/pump/accumulator assembly, or a refurbished complete unit.

On the plus side, I am getting extremely adept at removing / refitting the HBB...
 
Back
Top