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eBay Welding Cable anygood?

warrenpfo

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Jul 21, 2010
Messages
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I need to get 2 lengths of welding cable to run from front battery to the rear of the car. Is the stuff they sell on eBay ok to use or it it another one of those you get what you pay for and i should look elsewhere.

I am looking for 70mm2
 
I got some 50 and 35mm2 stuff off an eBay seller to extend my battery leads and earths and it seems fine. As long as you cut it properly it doesn't splay too badly and it is flexible. I haven't used it for high amp, long term use like welding but it hasn't melted on me yet. I just ordered some 16mm to make up an Anderson plug connector to the battery, I'll let you know how it is and look for the name of the other supplier (if it isn't all from the same place).

I got my lot from this guy, I have no complaints.
http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/jess1scruff/& ... 1439.l2754
 
If you're doing a split charge system go look at Raw Components kits - what I used (the 200 amp one) and its worked perfectly ...

Sorry - no direct view on the cable - but I've always gone to Raw :lol:
 
Garry

Its to get power to the 2k inverter in the rear. I would also want to tap off it to get power to a fridge and other items that I might like to use none of which would be on at the same time as the inverter.
 
I'd defo install a power bus then to alleviate risk of fire from a problem :lol:

Could be the cable is fine - all depends on manufacturer I guess, vs seller, if you get my drift.
 
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That looks a lot like the one that I bought from Warren
 
Is 70mm2 to the inverter really necessary?

Cable is expensive stuff and there's no need to spend more then is necessary. If the maths says 70 then so be it. But more than needed is not better.

Chris
 
Well you can't say fairer than that can you!

Cable - in case you didn't realise come in different forms. You can start with one solid core or hundreds of very thin cores bound together. The cross sectional area is the 70mm2 bit. Usually there are two other numbers something like 0.69 . 320 This means 320 strands of .69mm cable to make up the whole cable. The greater the number of strands, the more flexible it will be. Obviously one solid core would be nuts. However, I guess there are some issues to consider (if we're being anal about it) and that's to do with the fact the wire is round - a shape that doesn't tessellate (fit together) very well. The larger the wire strand, the less well it fits together and the more air there is doing to be in the cable. Guys this is thinking out loud, not fact - OK? If very high currents are being passed I guess that air heats up and bad things happen. Also the cable would be more bulky? Welding cable is usually very thin strands to make if flexible and also has a heat proof outer coating so that it doesn't melt when you shower it with sparks. I have found it to be most excellent for these applications.

I put two mega fuses in line through the installation (somewhere where you can get to them) and carry spares in the truck of course. These were from VWP.

Chris
 
warrenpfo said:
I need to get 2 lengths of welding cable to run from front battery to the rear of the car. Is the stuff they sell on eBay ok to use or it it another one of those you get what you pay for and i should look elsewhere.

I am looking for 70mm2

Why use two lengths, you only need one and use the body/chassis as the earth !
 
I'd second the two cable method. If I was wiring in a fog light I'd use the chassis, but following the advice of an experienced overland vehicle prep specialist, they said that any major component such as this or a second battery for example is best on a closed loop. Nothing to do with the way it works, it's about having the potential for grounding in the system due to faults etc and losing all the charge in you main battery. It's simply a safer option rather than a better option.

When I isolate my system, I know it's not connected to anything else including the chassis earth.

I would say only buy one length - not two precut ones. As you will be adding fuses and cut offs, the two won't be a same length. One length allows you run one direct cable, shortest distance, then terminate and use the rest to go back stopping to put the joints in. Or the other way around. It's up to you.

Chris
 
Steve Wright said:
Why use two lengths, you only need one and use the body/chassis as the earth !


For the 2KW inverters you looking at around 180-190A which might be a bit touchy going through the chassis as an earth for a prolonged period.

Warren - you need to get (beg borrow or steel) the proper hydraulic crimpers as well. If you're nearby, pop round and we can crimp it all.
 
warrenpfo said:
I need to get 2 lengths of welding cable to run from front battery to the rear of the car. Is the stuff they sell on eBay ok to use or it it another one of those you get what you pay for and i should look elsewhere.

I am looking for 70mm2
.
Hi warren,

70mm is a beast of a cable, are you sure you want to go so big?
I am quite sure 50mm is more than sufficient in reality.
Your going to need some serious battery draw to make the 50mm cables become any thing like unsafe.
I opted for 35mm, with teh 2kW inverter, and I did that on the fact that I would never be pulling sufficient out of the battery for long enough to make the 35mm cables unsafe.

Providing your fuse is within yor cables capacity, as it is the fuse which protects the cables (essentially from short circuit) then on that basis, 50mm cable should be more than sufficient.
70mm is even more, and more sufficient.

Nothing wrong at all using 70mm, nothing wrong at all,

Gra.
 
Steve Wright said:
warrenpfo said:
I need to get 2 lengths of welding cable to run from front battery to the rear of the car. Is the stuff they sell on eBay ok to use or it it another one of those you get what you pay for and i should look elsewhere.

I am looking for 70mm2

Why use two lengths, you only need one and use the body/chassis as the earth !
.
Not good to use chassis as a return back to the batteries.
This could well be 100 amps on a normal 2KW inverter, and it's not good to have 100 amps running through chassis joints for fear of high resistance which will cause heat.

Really better to install a dedicated neutral return from the inverter to the neg. of the battery.

Gra.
 
Chris said:
Well you can't say fairer than that can you!

Cable - in case you didn't realise come in different forms. You can start with one solid core or hundreds of very thin cores bound together. The cross sectional area is the 70mm2 bit. Usually there are two other numbers something like 0.69 . 320 This means 320 strands of .69mm cable to make up the whole cable. The greater the number of strands, the more flexible it will be. Obviously one solid core would be nuts. However, I guess there are some issues to consider (if we're being anal about it) and that's to do with the fact the wire is round - a shape that doesn't tessellate (fit together) very well. The larger the wire strand, the less well it fits together and the more air there is doing to be in the cable. Guys this is thinking out loud, not fact - OK? If very high currents are being passed I guess that air heats up and bad things happen. Also the cable would be more bulky? Welding cable is usually very thin strands to make if flexible and also has a heat proof outer coating so that it doesn't melt when you shower it with sparks. I have found it to be most excellent for these applications.

I put two mega fuses in line through the installation (somewhere where you can get to them) and carry spares in the truck of course. These were from VWP.

Chris
.
Hi Chris and All,,

Electricity is a strange thing, it likes to run down the outside of the copper strands first, then it gradually starts to migrate to the center of the strands when the strands are carrying more amps.
The more amps they carry, the hotter they will get with resistance.
Resistance in cables is bad.
A 50mm cable can as you quite rightly say can be made of many different constructions.
Firstly, there is the 50mm solid, very common to use solid drawn, but definatly not our cup of tea.
Then there is a multitude of stranded constructions up to say 1000 hi-flex, far more than a typical welding cable, however for our application, we treat welding cable as being very flexible, which it is compared to the normal 50mm cable we would encounter with for example "a 50mm 4 core XPLE armour"

The more strands, the more flexible, and generally the more conductive.

The insulation is again, another important criteria as to the safe current capacity of the cable, as is the trunking that the cable will be channeled through.
For example it is pointless having our new cable with current carry insulation capable of 140 deg C, if we are going to lie it alongside other cables which have a lower insulation value, of say 60 deg C.

Most PVC cable insulation run quite happy at 60 deg C. although the copper within is unhappy because of the higher resistance than at say, 30 deg C.

Gra.
 
Crispin said:
[quote="Steve Wright":3o434n2h]
Why use two lengths, you only need one and use the body/chassis as the earth !


For the 2KW inverters you looking at around 180-190A which might be a bit touchy going through the chassis as an earth for a prolonged period.

Warren - you need to get (beg borrow or steel) the proper hydraulic crimpers as well. If you're nearby, pop round and we can crimp it all.[/quote:3o434n2h]
.
Flux solder them.
Gas blow torch.
Crimping is best suited to lesser stranded cables for example 50mm x 3 core XLPE armour and the like.
For high stranded cables such as welding cables, the prefered connection with a connection lug would be soldered.
There is a difference between soldered lugs, and crimp lugs.

Gra.
 
I tried soldering 50mm cable with a torch but it wicked the heat away quite quickly leaving a dry joint. Persistence only started melting the cable. Torch was meat enough, I've used it for brazing without a problem.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
 
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