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EGR blanking plates.
- Thread starter Lexie
- Start date
I'm not sure I've ever seen them for sale commercially. The two on the upper section are under negative pressure so can be quite thin, but the one on the exhaust manifold needs to be really think. I actually made one and it bent under pressure and started blowing.
But Lexie, from my experience I'd say it made no difference at all. Not one jot. The EGR only opens at idle and on overrun. It's not open when under power so all this stuff about better economy in my view is hokey. What they do do though, is allow crud to build up in your inlet manifold. If that's the reason fro getting rid of them, then it's a good one, but I wouldn't expect any other benefits.
But Lexie, from my experience I'd say it made no difference at all. Not one jot. The EGR only opens at idle and on overrun. It's not open when under power so all this stuff about better economy in my view is hokey. What they do do though, is allow crud to build up in your inlet manifold. If that's the reason fro getting rid of them, then it's a good one, but I wouldn't expect any other benefits.
Towpack
Well-Known Member
I've never seen them for sale either. As Chris sez you can make some in no time. I used some 4mm steel plate for the manifold and some 2mm Ali for the 2 intakes on the cross over pipe. If you remove the valve assemblies completely you may have to make a bracket to brace the cross over pipe to the head. I removed mine purely to stop the black crud build up.
Agreed about it making no odds other than keeping crap out of the engine, the additonal pipework may affect flow from a power/economy point of view but doubt it is measurable.
Just don't go doing this on a modern vehicle, many ecu's 'know' it has been blocked or has failed, this throws a code along with the MIL, and recently a MIL light staying on will fail a Spanish ITV, unsure how UK MOT stations are dealing with this?
Also the machinery in test stations is being programmed with expected values, this allows he inspector to get an indication if something is amiss, interesting this facility is only being implemented on petrol engines?
Regards
Dave
Just don't go doing this on a modern vehicle, many ecu's 'know' it has been blocked or has failed, this throws a code along with the MIL, and recently a MIL light staying on will fail a Spanish ITV, unsure how UK MOT stations are dealing with this?
Also the machinery in test stations is being programmed with expected values, this allows he inspector to get an indication if something is amiss, interesting this facility is only being implemented on petrol engines?
Regards
Dave
Tommy345
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That will stop the crud. The blanking plates tidy things up.
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I've seen many an old 60's diesel engine with no egr or sophistication with black sludge in the inlet manifold and carbon baked on to the inlet side of the inlet valves. I suspect blanking off the egrs will not entirely stop carbon build up. Has anyone had their 80 stop working because of carbon build up. Does the sludge really matter?
Experience shows that given enough miles the inlet tract narrows as the sludge accrues. Certainly smaller 4 cylinder engines aee well known for it.
Unsure if the quality of fuel or driving style and environment or a combination of all is to blame but it is a continual problem.
Regards
Dave
Unsure if the quality of fuel or driving style and environment or a combination of all is to blame but it is a continual problem.
Regards
Dave
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I suspect a lot is condensate as the inlet manifold is cold. A water heated one might help but then might reduce the volume of air ad then the power of the engine. The 6 cylinder Aston Martin engines I used to rebuild had water heated inlet manifolds when fitted with SU carbs but just plain tubes when fitted with Webber carbs. I've only just heard the penny drop. Never twigged before.
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Whats the best way of getting rid of that? Some kind of chemical treatment?
Find a local engine reconditioning shop, they will hot tank it for you.
Regards
Dave
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Towpack
Well-Known Member
I soaked my air crossover pipe in a mix of petrol/diesel which worked very well and carefully scraped what I could from the inlet manifold. Ideally I guess you should also remove and fully clean it like the air pipe and then remove the cyl head and do a full decoke!! All depends on how far you want to go with it.
MarkW
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Another benefit of doing this will also be your engine oil will stay cleaner due to the soot loading being much reduced .
One series of machines I work on used EGR as a Tier 3 emission control . This was done internally by an extra lobe on the cam so a maintenance free no extra parts way of doing it.
We then had to go Tier 4 .....this was achieved just by using AdBlue and reverting back to a Tier 2 cam without EGR lobes .
We used to find even on a new engine that at 100 hrs the oil was black with EGR .......with AdBlue it was still golden after 2-300 hrs , not to mention the engines pulled better and used less fuel.
If we didn't have all the stupid reg's regarding emissions that are all driven by politics rather facts we could all be driving around with very efficient diesel engines that produce more power , use less fuel and last for 500k plus miles without any problems.
I fail to see how it's better for anything to use more fuel and oil due to shorter oil change interval's and also to have to in affect make 3 or 4 engines to do the same as 1 engine could .
The total emissions produced by all the extra fossil fuel burned , and extra resources used to make more engines is hugely more polluting and bad for the environment than one engine running at say Tier 2 which was probably the point that common rail engines were operating at the best level for longevity V emissions.
Most modern fully emission compliant engines from any manufacturer will be reaching a critical stage of life at 150K .
The Ford Transit engine has serious faults and is in many vehicles , The engine in Merc Sprinters was good for 500K + but Google injector and engine problems on them , we all know the issues that the 120 series had with injectors.....Nissan , Renault and others have similar problems......all caused to a large degree by cooled EGR , VVT turbos and all the other electronic bit's .
One series of machines I work on used EGR as a Tier 3 emission control . This was done internally by an extra lobe on the cam so a maintenance free no extra parts way of doing it.
We then had to go Tier 4 .....this was achieved just by using AdBlue and reverting back to a Tier 2 cam without EGR lobes .
We used to find even on a new engine that at 100 hrs the oil was black with EGR .......with AdBlue it was still golden after 2-300 hrs , not to mention the engines pulled better and used less fuel.
If we didn't have all the stupid reg's regarding emissions that are all driven by politics rather facts we could all be driving around with very efficient diesel engines that produce more power , use less fuel and last for 500k plus miles without any problems.
I fail to see how it's better for anything to use more fuel and oil due to shorter oil change interval's and also to have to in affect make 3 or 4 engines to do the same as 1 engine could .
The total emissions produced by all the extra fossil fuel burned , and extra resources used to make more engines is hugely more polluting and bad for the environment than one engine running at say Tier 2 which was probably the point that common rail engines were operating at the best level for longevity V emissions.
Most modern fully emission compliant engines from any manufacturer will be reaching a critical stage of life at 150K .
The Ford Transit engine has serious faults and is in many vehicles , The engine in Merc Sprinters was good for 500K + but Google injector and engine problems on them , we all know the issues that the 120 series had with injectors.....Nissan , Renault and others have similar problems......all caused to a large degree by cooled EGR , VVT turbos and all the other electronic bit's .
Buy a 12valve - its the way forward
