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Episode 1 of 'What's wrong with my LandCruiser?'

Frank, neither did I until I heard this tinkling sound as the oil ring rolled down into my diff. In the end, I managed to get it back by making a sectional slide hammer which I fed up the axle and out through the hub. It's not listed anywhere as a part. It just keeps oil up against the seal when parked or over at an angle.
Did you manage to locate it again? I remember us discussing this a while back, i always thought it was to keep the half shafts off the axle tube seal as they slid back in.
i lost mine years ago to a exploding cv joint..
 
Hi Shaun, how does the 80 drive with the new oil in the gearbox?

Re the front axle, it may be an idea to see if you can get your hands on a good secondhand axle that could be swapped in, in place of yours. With a full axle rebuild on the cards and possibly a diff rebuild, it could fix a few of your issues in one go and save a load of labour costs.

At least you can tick the rear tailgate gas struts off your list!

Hi Scott, great idea about an axle swap out first, I'm still very keen to take it apart and have a quick look at the damage first though and if it looks bad, I think I'll drop Karl a line.

Regarding the gearbox, the transmission oil has worked wonders and I think the gears are shifting as smoothly as they can at the moment. The problem is with the clutch system as it doesn't disengage properly so I think I'll soon be calling for help very soon, but front axle first.
 
Hi Shaun, I too bought a neglected 80 so I feel your pain to an extent. As for a front axle rebuild, I think most of them out there (that haven’t already had the treatment) will need doing, these trucks are all getting on a bit now and such work will most likely be overdue.

Always nasty to see curls of swarf like that coming out, but it may not be as bad as it looks, if you’re lucky. It may be from a failed oil seal or something less important than a differential or such like.

But a rebuild it will need, do you hav a clicking on full steering lock, forward or reverse? if yes, that will be the CV joints inside each of the cannonballs, each end of the axle.

The problem with a job like that is the lack of knowledge, so a search on here will reveal several write-ups of similar work, by @Chris and others...

You will likely need some special tools, which you may be lucky enough to borrow or buy, if you can afford them. LC parts are not cheap, but once replaced (with OEM genuine parts) it’s unlikely that you’ll be doing that work again, even if you keep the truck for another 10-20 years :thumbup:.

The UJs on the props are not so expensive and they are DIY jobs, but again a search on here will reveal some very useful tips.

Don’t rush to replace parts until you’re sure they need it.

Replace all fluids, brake, clutch, gear, axle, transfer box and engine oils/ filters. As Scott has asked, did the g/box oil change make it drive any better?

Watching with interest, you’ll be surprised how better it will drive with a few bits and pieces sorted.

Best of luck and don’t give up...

Hi Clive, thanks for your encouraging response! I am still feeling a bit overwhelmed with the truck but at the same time it's a great opportunity to learn from everyone here. No clicking on full lock but I think there might be a problem with the steering as well.

With Scott's help, all the oils were swapped out and I'm very happy with the transmission oil change, but sadly, there's still a problem with the clutch.
 
Thanks rich.

I'm happy to pass any info I have over me red if you get stuck anytime.

The club meets are worth coming along to. There's always someone repairing a truck and lots of tips and information to learn.

Thanks Karl! I'll try and come along to one of the meets (so long as the truck can make it). When are the dates again?
 
drink a case of beer then re-think the whole project. Its not just getting the knowledge but acquiring the tools to some of the jobs can be expensive. Depends on the time scale and budget of course. Buying a ready prepped truck is no guarantee that none of these issues will arise or what miles are left on certain parts assuming they were installed correctly. At least you will gain the knowledge to complete repairs quickly as you travel.

My only concern would be finding out where that clunk of metal came from. Top up your PS reservoir with leak stop and see how it goes. I have been doing that for 6 years and get about 10k between top ups. flush all the old oils out and put cheap ones in for a few months to check for fresh leaks. You could go all out and rebuild the hole truck otherwise. A few oil weeps wouldn't be the end of the world so as long as your engine is sound, your wheel bearings are secure and a couple of the calipers are working then off you go.

Agreed! I've been thinking about this project many times. In the time I have to do this, creating my own workshop really isn't feasible. I will be fully reliant on the help of others for now, which is good in a way as there are so many people here I want to learn from. I'm also going to look into seeing if anyone is interested in sub-letting a unit nearby but that's another quest.
 
We have the overland show at the end of this month and also the 22nd of Sep.
Can't remember the date of the other lincomb but I think it's around the beginning of Sep, it's worth keeping Ann eye on the forum though as I expect we may have other socials this year and moving forward hopefully
 
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Any chance of another ‘Non Lincomb’ somewhere in the warmer weather?
 
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Working on cars really isn't as scary as most people think, I learnt the hard way when I put a conrod through the side of a block at Brands Hatch!

No money for a rebuild so I bought a cheap socket set and a Haynes manual and rebuilt it myself. First time doing anything other than cleaning and topping up the oil. The rebuilt engine started first time and passed the mot the next day. I still have it in the back of the garage :)

Prioritise the list of work and then start going through it job by job, ask for tips/assistance when needed you'll be fine :D
 
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