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Excessive play in transfer box KZJ90

Yep and i guess the diff did need changed after all .

I was hoping to find a conclusive answer after reading so many inconclusive threads about the same problem but i think the cause is a combination of things - new clutch - diff wear - loose dash - aging bushes and last but not least handing such a truck to a hooligan like me :shifty:

I would have preferred to use some bolts to tighten the dash but there is nothing inside that lends itself unless i drilled through the dash to get a hold on it .
 
Good old cable ties! Always come in handy!

Has it cured it?
 
:lol: thanks Rich i guess i should be celebrating but it feels a hollow victory for some reason . Nevermind though i have gained some confidence along the way i would have thought changing the front diff a big job but it was easy enough .
 
I said earlier in this thread my 1998 KZJ90 and Helen's 2001 KDJ90 both had R16 diffs .

I was wrong my 98 truck is R17 which is a shame as i was thinking to have the spare rebuilt to go in mine .

I also have a spare auto transfer box as well .
 
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Shayne, any win is just that, well done!

These things can be frustrating, and it's never just one item on its own with these trucks (unless it's an 80 of course:lol:).
 
Well done for chasing down the problem. I'll be doing the same thing at some point... as soon as I can find an R16 front diff.

One question: was it possible to tell what the backlash at the pinion flange was like (on the replacement) on the bench. I mean, having found yours to be excessive when on the truck, could you tell that the replacement had less backlash before you fitted it??
 
To be honest with the diff out i couldn't see any noticeable difference between the two movement wise other than the newer one was much stiffer to turn .

As i have said Dave it feels like an inconclusive result to me so i wouldn't automatically assume your problem is obviously diff related .

Perhaps a new clutch in mine just revealed years of wear on multiple (original) parts all at once and the loose dash served to amplify it .
 
Decided to have a go at changing the panhard and trailing arms bushes this morning , got everything freed off and ready to come out when i had a premonition that something was going to go Twang and i was going to say Ouch !

I have one corner jacked up with the wheel off (axle and frame propped) so i could remove the lower shock bolt to get at the rear of the lower control arm . It was job stop at 11am as i had other things to do but i hope to get a couple of hours at it again tomorrow .

I am thinking now i should have removed the panhard rod at the outset while both rear wheels were on the ground as i plan to do one side and then the other . And another question just struck me was what about the anti roll bar ?

I can't see why anything would "twang" more than an inch so i am tempted to continue and just pull the bolts but i would appreciate input if anyone thinks i am setting myself up for a fall ?
 
When I did mine (some years ago now!) I had the chassis on axle stands and the rear axle on a trolley jack (with a spreader bar) so that I could easily raise & lower it.

I removed all four Control Arms and the Panhard Rod as it was going to take a while to bore out the old bushes and cut out the outer steel sleeves (don't forget them - the new Poly Bushes won't go in with them in there).

The axle nose tends to drop with the control Arms removed, so I had to use a second jack to level it when installing the re-bushed (and painted :icon-smile:) arms.

It all went OK, though I had to drill out and helicoil the ARB bush retainer bolts (8mm thread). Looking at my photos, I undid the Drop Links from the chassis before removing the Control Arms - but I then went on to replace the ARB Bushes as well.

Just make sure the car or axle can't slip sideways (while you're under it).

Bob.

DSCN5164.jpg


DSCN5167.jpg

DSCN5150_zpsxdbtnfwo.jpg
 
I don't recall having to touch the ARB when doing control arms, but as Bob says you want to support the back of the car with both wheels off the ground. You need can get the arms off with one wheel raised at a time (and with a BFH), but you won't get them back on like that. You need to jiggle the axle a bit to get the holes to line up. And make sure you use new nylocs or proper Toyota ridged nuts. If a bolt comes a little lose it will oval the hole in the brackets. And then you have to weld stuff and you wish you hadn't skimped on a few pence for a nut!
 
If you can see the crack/gap which causes the rattle you can just squeeze in some polyurethane sealer round the clips?
 
Thanks for the tips i didn't get at it today but looking at it with fresh eyes i suppose it makes sense to replace the drop links with longer front ones , something i should have done when the 2" suspension lift was fitted .
 
Happy to report nothing went twang and nobody died with chassis + axle propped and both rear wheels off it all came apart quite easily and removing the bush/collar was no trouble at all .

Somewhat annoyed that i will have to remove the exhaust to get the upper drivers side arm bolt out :icon-rolleyes: temptations there to remove the axle and maybe the fuel tank while i'm at it doing a rear end refurb but i'm working on the wrong truck - mine needs it more than hers :think: if i had a shot blaster to make short work of it i couldn't pass up the opportunity but i don't even have a compressor nor anywhere to store either :cry:
 
Should note the new panhard and trailing arm bush set didn't cure the problem but it has muted the thud a bit .

Which is odd really because the old bush's looked quite functional as in tight with no play which makes me wonder if the exaggerated drivetrain shunt might relate to rubber hardening with age , which of course would be an invisible fault ?
 
When I replaced all my suspension bushes 10 years ago, I was told there was nothing wrong with the old ones.

However, as soon as I started driving it, the difference was immediate. The whole truck felt tighter and more alive, suspension and steering.

I got the impression that the old bushes were softer than the new ones, because all the boatiness characteristics disappeared.

It still feels good and tight now, 10 years on....
 
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