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front caliper service

Jon Wildsmith said:
Depends how long they're hanging for but I usually just let them drip and don't have to do much bleading even after a few days.
Ok, good to know, I figured there would be a fairly steady trickle of fluid to the point where much of the line would need to be flushed/bled.

Jon Wildsmith said:
Probably not very good for whatever is under your truck though :mrgreen:
Hmmm....not so worried about that, unless it's me sitting in the puddle :twisted:
 
You can let the callipers gravity bleed, however it doesn't work that well for the LSPV.
 
Graham Stirling said:
Jon,

Do you know what the pipe and fitting size is on an 80. I'm guessing 3/16 pipe and 10mm fittings?

Cheers, G

This is a vehicle produced and designed in Japan, they do not know the imperial measurement system. The pipes will be 5mm and the fittings will be metric threads. There is only 11 thou. difference on the pipe size but the flare shape is different.
 
Did the seals come from Toyota or some third part supplier? What sort of cost are we talking about here?

Think it's something I should add to my list of things to check on my 80. Tyre supplier noticed that the nsf wheel was warmer than the other 3 when he changed the tyres suggesting that there is some brake binding going on.

Cheers

Richard
 
The parts I used came from forum member Ian Rubie. They were not my calipers so I didn't get the bill for the parts :D
 
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Richard,
I think what Jon is suggesting is that you could also try contacting Ian to see if he has any caliper kits available. He may be able to offer a meaningful discount on your main dealer's price ;) I obtained my refurb kits from Ian too!
Cheers,
 
Those pipe clamps from Halfords are excellent BTW - I borrowed one from my local chap when I dropped a jack on the hard line & ruptured the it...

Cheers
 
Thanks Guys. I do happen to have a couple of seal kits on the shelf :lol:

Richard - You have a PM.

Cheers

Ian
 
Does anyone know the torque for the four caliper bolts (i.e. the ones holding the two halves together?)

These were extremely difficult to undo but the FSM appears to suggest a torque of 19ftlbs (Appendix B, Hex Hd - Flanged Washer, 10mm Dia - i.e. class 4T).

Is this correct - it seems rather low!
 
I know that this is an older post, but knowledge doesn't really doesn't really date that much. Before I pull the caliper on this sort caper, I leave one pad in one side and take the opposite one out and use it to cover one piston. I then work the brake to see if the single piston is coming out to play. I then remove the loose pad and try the next piston and so on until all 4 have had a shove. This lets me know what I am in for and doesn't damage anything. If I get one that won't play, I'll keep trying pedal pressure to move it. Possibly use a clamp to push the piston back into the cylinder to create movement. I keep doing this until the piston is freed off enough to move in and out. OK if it's solid - totally, I then disconnect the brake line and try the compressor in there. A blast of air at 150psi sometimes shifts the offending piston. Any work that you can do whilst it's on the vehicle is a bonus in my view. OK, if it has to come off then I try to leave the other pistons in with small clamps stopping them from flying out. This keeps the crap out of the cylinders and of course means that if you run out of time, it can go back on the vehicle for now. My experience is that if you try to rotate the pistons in the bore, the seal actually 'wrinkles up' in a way and simply jams the movement. As they are worn, there is crud in there and the seals are usually adhered to the piston, rotating them only causes damage to the lip of the piston where you grip it. OK this doesn't affect the braking when you put it all back together, but it offends my sense of professional pride!. The best way for them to come out is straight. You could tack a small bar across the mouth of the piston and use that to pull on to get the piston moving, I guess. Anything but water pump pliers!

If you do rotate, then just wiggle back and forth a very small amount. As I said, trying to spin the piston is not the best method. As soon as you get any movement, capitalise on it. Just keep it going back and forth or in and out to consolidate the free space. Get some brake fluid in there or grease to lubricate it until the movement increases. Major damage to the chrome plating will let the elements in over time and cause you grief again. I treat mine with some Kurust or something to kill any corrosion and form a barrier.

I have done this once or twice and vowed some while ago never to abuse pistons again. Brains over brawn I think. (Then I start whacking the sodding thing)

Chris
 
Chris,

Thanks for these tips - invaluable, as always - will give that a try to get the sodding things moving on the other side...

However - I have committed to replacing the piston seals & have split one side already...

When reading up I noticed the FSM doesn't cover splitting the calipers and the torque value looks too low... :?

Any ideas?
 
Nope. Never thought that splitting the unit was a very good idea. They are all that stands between me and certain death. Oh oh, that sounds good dunnit.

Don't have the values, so can't help you there. Never needed to split them to replace the bits and bobs. OK, easier for prep for painting I'll admit, but did the last set whilst built up. Didn't fancy getting that far and then regretting it. I know my limits! :oops:

Chris
 
That does seem low but I don't know what it should be :( You don't need to split the calipers to service them usually.
 
If you do split the caliper, as I had to do to remove a stuck piston, make sure the mating faces and the rubber O-ring are spotlessly clean before you refit.

You should also check for weeping at the join after a few days which will indicate a bad seal. Mine have been fine using the torque setting from the FSM.

Cheers
 
Good write up on caliper refirb......

Can you tell me where you got service kit from?, just ready to do mine.....
 
Try Ian Rubie for a respectable price ;)
 
Just to update the post....

Mine are all done now - used FSM torques and still no leaks after 6 days and two hundred miles of 'test driving'... :mrgreen:

Ian supplied my kits but as written earlier in the post its a good idea to get some more Red Rubber Grease from Frost - the kit only contains a minimal amount - not enough IMO.
 
Jon. As always, this was an INVALUABLE post.

I serviced my brakes in the middle of the Ethiopian highlands at around 12 000 feet above sea level in the cold. and dark.

We had some trouble on a rather bad road and it became abundantly obvious that it was time for new pads.
On closer inspection. they needed a full service. Bonus!
Luckily I had printed this and taken it with me along with all the parts from Mr Rubie
Was supposed ot do it ages back but we'd had no good time yet. Honest.

Thanks again. And Chris - I wish I'd tried getting the pistons out using the truck rather than a small hammer and mole grips. It wasn't easy.

But. Result! brakes have been great since and we managed to do the rest of our trip successfuly. A great example of the forum in action... :twisted:
 
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