Front Difflock

[Compact3]

1995 GS 80 series. Front difflock remains engaged regardless as what I do. I have jacked up the wheels and wheel driven round a large snow field, hit it with a hammer -nothing. Advice would be much appreciated, as would a guide to taking it off. I have done the rear which is fine, but the front would appear to be more difficult. I see that Milners no longer stock the front locker Cheers
John

 

[Chris]

Nah, no issues taking the front one off. It's only three bolts / nuts and two connectors. If you take it off, you can put your finger up inside the large hole and slide the locking rack over manually. Ain't no mysteries involved in a front 80 locker. You may get a little oil seep out as one of the lower holes goes right through. Sometimes the stud unwinds instead of the nut. Not an issue though.

Chris

 

[Compact3]

Thanks for that Chris. Is the operation much the same as the rear locker, with the same system for locking and unlocking. The only difficult bit will probably be loosening the bolts, the rear was a replacement and was only about 4 years old. The front one has been on since build which is 17years. Never had a problem with the front before apart from last week when it required a tap with a hammer to engage, and would not engage in Snowdonia in the snow. Any written assistance would be appreciated.
Cheers
John

 

[Chris]

John. Written assistance as requested.

Remove 3 nuts, unplug two electrical connectors. Remove locker. I simply can't put any more because it's THAT simple. Only general advice I could give you would be to clean the nuts with a wire brush first. Spray with some pen oil and use a good quailty socket that fits snugly. I'd use a 6 sided one rather than a 12.

I can't make it harder than it is mate. Sorry. Now the rear one is a different mechanism completely and a bit of a faff. The front one isn't. Get the bolts out and give it a wiggle. You can't twist it out. There ARE only 3 fixings. If it doesn't move, make sure you have taken the right three off and persevere. Do not go whacking it with a hammer.

Chris

 

[Compact3]

Thanks for that Chris We have it apart and inside looks like new. Is there a picture of what it should look like when put together again. The 3 magnets look ok. But it still won't turn the spindle. when reattached via the battery. Do you happen to know what which coloured wire does what?
John

 

[Towpack]

The Blue and Blue/Green wires are to the motor. Blue/Yellow & Blue/Black to the switch (the switch built into the actuator not the dash mounted switch). The ECU sends power to the locker motor to lock the diff and simply reverses the polarity to unlock by 'reading' the switch position.

 

[Chris]

3 Magnets????

Errrr

Chris

 

[Compact3]

3 Magnets????

Errrr

Chris

Does that mean there should be 4?

 

[Chris]

As far as I know, yes. But they can't disappear can they. But you would normally have 4 North South North South. Three magnets would mean that you had two poles, the same together in a ring. Maybe this is clever improved winding. I am not a motor expert. But when I took mine apart to glue the magnets back in there were certainly 4.

Can't tell you more than that.

Chris

 

[Compact3]

Thanks all for the assistance. There are 4 magnets, the 4th was on the deck in the pollytunnel where I take things to bits, it is the only warm place left. The main problem would appear to be that the wires had come off the small brushes which are pushed onto the armature by a spring, and cannot be re attached. New ones required. Just in case it is beyond repair , where could I obtain a new one, or one that works. Milners only do the rear.

John