Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

FZJ80R from Devon

Clicking is normal on many electric aerials. It does sound like the connection of the co ax to the aerial in the wing that's poor.
 
So fiddled with the aeriel some more today, disconnected the alternator and ran the engine, checked the wiring on the igniter noise filter, all seems fine but still good signal engine off, rubbish engine on.

20171109_131325.jpg


Disconnecting this plug makes a difference, the signal is rubbish engine on or off! So I cleaned up the terminals and it made no difference, decided to take out the aeriel and see what was going on with it.

Turned out to be a big job, had to take out the air con evaporator, heater box, heater blower etc to get the cable out through the bulkhead...

20171109_170622.jpg
20171109_170628.jpg
20171109_170638.jpg
20171109_170647.jpg
20171109_170657.jpg


Many rotten connections. Cleaned up the connectors and all the earth, then did the thing which I should have done first, checked for continuity between the mast and the connector which goes in the radio, there was none.

Tried to clean up the mast and connections in the mast, but no use, then broke the tube trying to dismantle it, turns out the tube with cable is about the only piece you can't get seperately.

Cut the cable up and found the break in the wire.

20171109_181730.jpg


Somewhere in here, typical. The electric antenna is wrecked unless I can find a replacement tube with cable but it doesn't look likely as it's a special shape at the top with the coax connected to it.

Going to go to mole valley and see what they have tomorrow, if not might get a toyota antenna from eBay and make something up.
 
Got a 2nd hand antenna from a Camry from EBay, looks like brand new and only £30. It also has the auto control ECU with it so I will wire it up to a 'flip flop' switch in place of the height adjusting switch, I intend to wire it so that when the radio is switched on and the switch is in the depressed position the mast will automatically go up and down. If I switch the switch it will pack away even if the radio is on.

Slightly taller than the standard antenna but I can make a bracket.

20171115_083905.jpg
 
So got on well with the rear bumper at the weekend, the bumper corners and step plate all fit now. Used part of the bumper reinforcement bolted onto the chassis rail with rivnuts to hold the bumper parts in place.

20171118_141009.jpg
20171118_141012.jpg


The threaded bar I had bolting through the chassis rail I have now replaced with stainless coach bolts.

20171117_174859.jpg


VHB tape on the back of the badges so I can re fit them.

20171119_183212.jpg
20171119_183223.jpg
20171119_183241.jpg


It will all have to be painted still but there is more work to do on the wheel carrier. I think next I will get the trailer sockets and LPG points on the bumper.

20171117_175045.jpg
20171117_175030.jpg


£10 for 3 Lexus switches and they come with a nice switch holder although it is unlikely I will run out of places to put switches on an 80 dash!

I have got a 2nd hand stainless roof rack which I need to cut down and make feet for as it was on a big van before.
 
20171120_184328.jpg
20171120_184305.jpg
20171120_184318.jpg


New Antenna up switch made by swapping the picture from the heated seat switch with the antenna switch.

Wires adapted to the Camry housing that luckily came with the new antenna.

Wires temporarily fitted to the new switch, will get a housing from one of the various Toyota looms I have at home. The Battery feed comes from G-O on the hazard switch, I just opened up the splice from where I had repaired the short circuit previously.

Next job fit the antenna.
 
20171121_004651.jpg


Up button in.

20171121_003149.jpg


New Antenna fits well

20171121_003042.jpg


Ornament lines up well with the wing

20171121_003034.jpg


Luckily I could use the bracket on the Camry antenna as it just about lines up, it was too big with the automatic relay box so those had to move from outside the wing.
20171121_003013.jpg


Needs a bit of rearranging as I didn't intend to put the relay box outside the wing, but I will get to that later.

The antenna works perfectly, put the ignition on and it comes up, ignition off and it packs away.

The signal is much improved, but really irritatingly not very good still!

Moved onto roof rack project now as I have had enough of antennas for the time being. I think it is probably still a bad earth problem, or radio problem.

Does anyone know if there is a way do adjust the catch in the fuel cap door, as there is a lot of slack and you really have to pull on the handle to get it to release. I have looked at both ends and can't see a way to adjust it...?
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
Cut the roof rack down and tacked it together, fits ok bit needs more work on the load spreading feet and I need to make clamps for it too.

20171122_011742.jpg
20171122_011801.jpg
20171122_011810.jpg
 
Finished welding the roof rack and finished the feet off, made the clamps from some stainless box cut up.

Fits well, I am pleased with it although it was time consuming to make. Its not Terribly heavy as it is thin walled stainless but it must be about 25kg.

20171123_233752.jpg
20171123_233801.jpg


I will make the spacers from stainless instead of using nuts and replace the fittings with stainless of the right length. The feet produce a lot of tension on the rack pulling it down firmly. I may add 2 more pairs of feet at the rear section.

Wind noise - at 90mph is fine,As long as you have the sunroof and blind closed. With the sunroof open it is intolerable.

You can drive up to 50mph with the sunroof open but at 60mph the wind noise starts. I think the slope of the windscreen and the first 2 bars creates a venturi effect. If you have the sun roof tilted there is no noise at all, quieter than having it closed!

I think I will add a deflector to the front, and turn the 2nd rail to run lengthways between the 1st and 3rd rails. May also add a tray to the rear and an extension for the light bar to go on the back.

And to cap it off...

20171123_234700.jpg
 
Nicely done there Richard looks like your enjoying this build with your mods.....Thanks for sharing :thumbup:
 
Hi Dervis, its nice to get a chunk of work out the way and have a nice drive in the truck afterwards!
 
Like Christmas already.

20171128_182419.jpg
20171128_183429.jpg

20171128_183508.jpg


When I pulled the rear discs a few weeks back to look at the handbrake the shoes were almost completely gone, and the drums were wearing funny too. I adjusted everything to maximum +11 and it was good for a bit but I think the shoes soon collapsed into dust. So ordered new toyota rear discs and pads, which are very nice, some apec shoes which are... acceptable but not toyota. Also got the new spring and hardware kit which is very good.

Got a hub spanner which I won't need quite yet, but good to have, and even got a free can of Roughtrax brake cleaner.
The service from roughtrax was very good, ordered yesterday lunch time and here before lunch today.

20171128_183521.jpg


I may need to change the N/S/R caliper soon as it is the only one that hasn't been recently replaced and is well on its way to becoming oxide, but I will try and hang it out unless it is seizing.
 
Shame roughtrax dont stock 60 parts!

Anyway, best of luck with the brake overhaul.
 
I already find the 80 the hardest vehicle I have owned to get parts for, I imagine yours must be even more tricky! Is there a go to shop for J60 or do you have to do a lot of importing of parts?
 
For 60 parts I Use:
Its Simon Holton for filters
Snows Toyota Exeter for fluids
Milners for brakes
Cruiserword.nl for everything else -
Mostly OEM or Terrain Tamer parts which are excellent
 
So not had a chance to fit the new brake parts yet but have finished undersealing the rear axle. I knocked off all the loose rust and gave it a good clean with the steam cleaner, then sprayed on a layer of aqua steel rust converter, then 2 layers of stone chip paint. It looks much nicer than it did now, hopefully will stop it rotting further for a while anyway. I have done all the way from the rear of the truck to about a foot in front of the rear wheel arches. I will have to weld the rear parts of the sills as they have gone through.

Got my new 2nd hand front diff lock from Karl Webster to replace the one on the truck that doesnt work.
20171130_104225.jpg
20171130_104236.jpg


Works and much cheaper than a new one but the corrosion is eating it. I think these must act as a very expensive sacrificial anode for the front axle! Decided to to some preventative maintenance as it won't really be a saving if I have to buy it again in 2 years.

20171130_141105.jpg
20171130_141112.jpg


Cleaned it up now but it is clear the corrosion eats in from the edge of the seal and compromises it, eventually penetrating into the gearbox and contacts of the solenoid.

20171130_141117.jpg


There was very little grease in there before but I have packed the whole thing.

20171130_141618.jpg


Super RTV instead of the rubber seal.

20171130_162434.jpg


Nut and bolt to hold it together while the rtv sets.

20171130_165846.jpg


2 heavy layers of Red oxide.

Will check it works again when packed with grease next week when I install it.
 
20171205_180959.jpg
20171205_180953.jpg
20171205_180949.jpg


New brake parts in. The fitting kit from Roughtrax is very good. The handbrake still isn't right though. I have to max out the adjuster at the handbrake lever to get it to work, and that means it is pulling on the springs all the time. I can't add adjustment inside the drums as it locks up. I backed it off at the lever in the end thinking perhaps the shoes will centre up when I drive it but thinking about it, it won't, as they locate on the top pivot.

For such a complicated handbrake set up it should be effective so I want to get it right. I think the next thing to try is disconnecting the cables, winding the stoppers on the back of the drum all the way in, then trying to adjust inside the drum again.
 
The 80 series handbrake works on black magic, or at least it can seem that way sometimes! The answer appears to be oversize dogbones. Maybe Chris will post up shortly, he seems to have mastered the handbrake setup.
 
Thanks, I will have another go at adjusting it before I pull it back apart again, I checked in the toyota book and it does say to disconnect the parking brake cable and wind the stoppers right in before adjusting up the shoes, so I will do that first. If that fails I will have to look in the drums again and check the shoe strut (dog bone) fitment.
 
I fitted the oversize doggones to mine and it improved it no end. I had the same issue as you in that no amount of adjusting at the drum end with the ratchet wheel and end stop adjusters seemed to make any difference. Too much and the drum locked up, too little or what feels to be about right means lots of travel at the handbrake lever! Someone on here, can't remember who, lengthened his original dogbones with a bit of welding which gave the same effect as the new longer ones.
 
A bit more work done towards the wheel carrier. It is not turning out as I imagined it as the wheel is too big to get as close into the door as I wanted it. So the overhang will be more.

20171208_170328.jpg
20171208_170317.jpg
 
Back
Top