H4 headlight connectors

[karl2000]

Has anyone else's melted, or am I just lucky?

Still works, been like that ever since I had it... on the list to replace..!

 

[Juddian]

I wonder if someone fitted 100w bulbs back in the day (before Osram/Philps started making brighter but correct wattage bulbs), i did just that on my Sierra many years ago, didn't melt the connectors but melted the column dipswitch instead, ended up fitting relays near the headlights.

Or possibly did someone bodge wire a pair of spotlights in at some point taking a feed from the main beam cables at the bulb?

 

[karl2000]

I wonder if someone fitted 100w bulbs back in the day (before Osram/Philps started making brighter but correct wattage bulbs), i did just that on my Sierra many years ago, didn't melt the connectors but melted the column dipswitch instead, ended up fitting relays near the headlights.

I was thinking it might be incorrect bulbs, but who knows....

Or possibly did someone bodge wire a pair of spotlights in at some point taking a feed from the main beam cables at the bulb?

Haven't seen any evidence of light mountings or any extra wiring... TBH I havent seen much evidence of tinkering anywhere (which is fine by me!)

Everything else seems OK, they were the only dodgy connectors I found - I'll replace them and hopefully they will never go again, fingers crossed!

 

[Grimbo]

Probably just a loose connection or corroded connection causing a high resistance ..... high resistance = heat .
I've got 130 watt main and spot bulbs in mine with no dramas and a pair of 130 watt Spots off my old rally car running a separate loom and relay ....again no dramas .
I tried the supposed brighter 55 watt bulbs and they were disappointing compared to current setup .
Looking at getting a pair of decent 5500 K LED spots but they are mega money compared to what I have already and I doubt will be much better .

 

[Chris]

Actually very common. As they slowly turn to carbon the resistence goes up and the problem accelerates. For some reason Toyota fitted many of their vehicles with sewing cotton sized cabling. Fitting higher output lamps makes it even worse. You can get a wiring loom that wires directly to the battery for its power and uses the old wiring to operate relays. You'll get much brighter lights that way

 

[tony rodaway]

Will give u an example I bought an led pad with 48 leds in it from ebay.
My plan was to replace my old number plate lights with led.
I have a 12v indoor tester to test items before I fit in my car.
I tested these led pads and with in 20 seconds or so they were that hot I had to just turn of the plug.
I thought my tester was to powerful for them so hooked up to my battery directly and same outcome so bin they went.
My point being if the wrong item was fitted or cheap bulbs to powerful fot the fuses or loom will cause this problem.
My headlight bulbs are led bulbs
Colour 6000k
Power out put 10000 and no heat from them at all.
Best bulbs I have ever bought and they give a new car look and great road presence also.
Saves my battery outage and looks cool. Only down side is no heat from them so don't clear snow.