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HDJ-80 with 1HD-FT from Oxford to Cape Town
- Thread starter CJBNomad8654
- Start date
Chris, great to hear that you've found the book as resourceful as I have
On your recommendation Grant I've just ordered a copy.
For what it's worth, and from someone who actually lives in Africa, please do come, see, and enjoy, but... Please, please and please DO NOT think about "hope for the hopeless, help for the helpless" and all this sort of things.
Charities are the downfall of Africa, they are pumping billions of dollars in absolutely useless projects, and achieve exactly the square root of zero. They have reinforced a culture of perpetual neediness, created problems for everyone who is simply trying to live his life on the continent, ruined economies, cultures, landscapes, people, governments, and businesses.
If you want to "help", the only thing that can actually make a difference is for you to come here, spend a few years learning how things work here, and use your skills to open businesses that will give jobs to those who care for, and improve economies that have absolutely nothing in common with whatever you may think is the "right way".
Short of this, you'll waste your time, your money, someone else's money and time, and achieve about as much as what can be done by passing gas in a bathtub.
Again, this place is wonderful. But as for Forrest Gump, you'll soon find out that "the place is not like home". And that whatever you think you know and understand does not apply here, and needs to be re-learned.
My apologies for the rant, if you come around I'll take you for a drink and some walkabout in the bush, show you a couple of nice things that are not on National Geographics - and are worth the trip.
Charities are the downfall of Africa, they are pumping billions of dollars in absolutely useless projects, and achieve exactly the square root of zero. They have reinforced a culture of perpetual neediness, created problems for everyone who is simply trying to live his life on the continent, ruined economies, cultures, landscapes, people, governments, and businesses.
If you want to "help", the only thing that can actually make a difference is for you to come here, spend a few years learning how things work here, and use your skills to open businesses that will give jobs to those who care for, and improve economies that have absolutely nothing in common with whatever you may think is the "right way".
Short of this, you'll waste your time, your money, someone else's money and time, and achieve about as much as what can be done by passing gas in a bathtub.
Again, this place is wonderful. But as for Forrest Gump, you'll soon find out that "the place is not like home". And that whatever you think you know and understand does not apply here, and needs to be re-learned.
My apologies for the rant, if you come around I'll take you for a drink and some walkabout in the bush, show you a couple of nice things that are not on National Geographics - and are worth the trip.
CJBNomad8654
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I agree with you Philip A. At this point I am merely trying to stimulate interest. From the little time I did spend in Africa I noticed - as is true in other parts of the world- the things you described above. I do believe that creating jobs and putting people to work helping their own communities is the most productive way to help. However, this has to be done in a way that the rampant government corruption in Africa cannot effect it. This trip is Hope, Help, and research. Thank you for your insight.
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CJBNomad8654
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If you want to "help", the only thing that can actually make a difference is for you to come here, spend a few years learning how things work here, and use your skills to open businesses that will give jobs to those who care for, and improve economies that have absolutely nothing in common with whatever you may think is the "right way".
Don't assume - it makes an ass out of u and me. Reading my webpage and posts on a 4X4 forum gives you zero insight into what I may or may not be doing. Especially if you don't actually read it. It is tantamount to me saying I have the "fix" for Africa without ever going there.
Charity pages are not for Africans, they are for westerners sitting on their couches hugging their money tight. Without generating interest by placing your desired cause in front of them (on their computer screen) they will never lift a finger to help. You need money to generate business.
Don't assume - it makes an ass out of u and me. Reading my webpage and posts on a 4X4 forum gives you zero insight into what I may or may not be doing. Especially if you don't actually read it. It is tantamount to me saying I have the "fix" for Africa without ever going there.
Charity pages are not for Africans, they are for westerners sitting on their couches hugging their money tight. Without generating interest by placing your desired cause in front of them (on their computer screen) they will never lift a finger to help. You need money to generate business.
CJBNomad8654
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And my trip isn't about saving Africa it's about helping wounded service members (which I am) and an orphanage that happens to be in Africa (which I've been to). Please read the full content of a website before you bash it with your political and socioeconomic commentary.
CJBNomad8654
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Actually, after some thought, I want to thank you Philip A. I guess most people just look at the "Home" page of the website, and if it said to you, he wants to fix Africa, then I need to change it. Perhaps it's the pictures? It shows pictures of the kids from the orphanage first, then you get pictures of my wounded comrades. I guess if people don't wait for the pictures to cycle then they don't really know what it's about. I need to make it more clear, and more to the point. I appreciate it.
Chris, I actually did not check your website before to write. What prompted my reaction was the first paragraph of your post, and my reply had nothing to do with you as a person, but with the general perception of Africa by the outside world...
From experience, guys like you who have already seen rough and tough in other parts of the world usually grasp pretty quickly which way the merry-go-round goes on this continent, and find their own way around.
Now, to go back to Land Cruisers... Your 80 is one of the best choices you can make. They are tough as nails and you'll find them all over the place. For the preparation, if I may suggest: Keep It Simple. We take cars on trips that would warrant six months of planning in Europe, with nothing more than checking the oil level and filling the tank. Good suspensions (Rob's Magic in Nairobi has nailed the suspensions for the 80 on African roads better than anyone else), good tyres, a strong roof rack, a snorkel, and you're basically ready to go.
From experience, guys like you who have already seen rough and tough in other parts of the world usually grasp pretty quickly which way the merry-go-round goes on this continent, and find their own way around.
Now, to go back to Land Cruisers... Your 80 is one of the best choices you can make. They are tough as nails and you'll find them all over the place. For the preparation, if I may suggest: Keep It Simple. We take cars on trips that would warrant six months of planning in Europe, with nothing more than checking the oil level and filling the tank. Good suspensions (Rob's Magic in Nairobi has nailed the suspensions for the 80 on African roads better than anyone else), good tyres, a strong roof rack, a snorkel, and you're basically ready to go.
Hi philip as some one who was born and brought up in uganda i couldn't agree with you more, east africa is so fertile i can't understand how any body can go hungry.
saddest sight i saw was on bbc news some yrs ago when they reported people dying of starvation, the bodies were found in a field were the grass was at least 4 ft high
it's true if you are given the means to live why work for it? i think it's the same everywhere isn't it? what with our benefit culture and all.
saddest sight i saw was on bbc news some yrs ago when they reported people dying of starvation, the bodies were found in a field were the grass was at least 4 ft high
it's true if you are given the means to live why work for it? i think it's the same everywhere isn't it? what with our benefit culture and all.
CJBNomad8654
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Hey Philip. Thanks man. I appreciate your advice and will try to make a note that comes up again later this year so I can go check out Rob's Magic and let him know you sent me by there. Ram and Philip, I understand both of you guys outlook, and I used to get angry at people in the US for not helping themselves until I realized, like you have, that governments and politically connected charities keep people enslave through free handouts. Education and work are better for people. Philip, I understand your reaction. The website does throw Africa right up front, so I can definitely see where it could confuse. I'm trying to figure out a balance for it as I do want to hep people. To do that, though, you often need the support of people who live where you want to make a difference.
CJBNomad8654
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Check my webpage for an update and thanks to guys from the forum. I'm positive I will receive more help as the clock continues to tick.
http://safari-expeditions.com/2013/...e-forum-contributors-and-book-recommendation/
http://safari-expeditions.com/2013/...e-forum-contributors-and-book-recommendation/
CJBNomad8654
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Route - tentative. ;-)
CJBNomad8654
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I was taught that at a minimum you should have a winch that will pull 1.5 times the vehicle weight when fully loaded.I am outfitting a 1997 LC 80-Series for an overland trip. The factory weight is 2500kg. That alone is already a bit over for an 8000lbs winch. This suggestion is supposed to be a straight line pull, not with the cable doubled back. So, if I outfit the vehicle with the ARB 80 Series front bullbar with Warn winch, ARB rear bumper with wheel carrier and jerry can holder, 166l fuel tank, two Outback drawers, 70L fridge, cargo cage, dual battery system, compressor, roof rack, RTT, and necessary recovery accessories, what size winch do I need? For some reason ARB does not list the weights for its bumpers, bullbars, or accessories so I am asking for peoples experience and whether they have weighed their vehicle when fully loaded. I'm asking because the store I am at is trying to help me save some money on the build and said the 8000lbs would be enough, but according to the recommended size that is barely enough to pull the factory - showroom floor - version on the 80 series.
coenvanwyk
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Hi Chris,
In my humble opinion the 8000 lbs winch should do it. What you could consider is some form of ground anchor, and the ones I have seen is beastly heavy. Someone used a chain with a number of steel pegs hammered through it. I tried two heavy tent anchor pegs, but that did not even hold the Cruiser on level ground. Someone made a whopping steel peg about 25 mm thick, with two tabs for shackles, and bolted it to the bumper. The idea was to unolt it and hammer it into the ground, we never used it.
What may be more important is some sort of sand ladder or mud ladder. My experience with whinching, admittedly limited was that you would winch to get out of the worts trouble, and if you can get tracton, on a sand ladder/plate you are half way there. They used to sell sand plates, ex-military, for cheap, but I was unable to source any when I looked through the European sites two years back. New ones, lovdely to look at, cost the earth!
In my humble opinion the 8000 lbs winch should do it. What you could consider is some form of ground anchor, and the ones I have seen is beastly heavy. Someone used a chain with a number of steel pegs hammered through it. I tried two heavy tent anchor pegs, but that did not even hold the Cruiser on level ground. Someone made a whopping steel peg about 25 mm thick, with two tabs for shackles, and bolted it to the bumper. The idea was to unolt it and hammer it into the ground, we never used it.
What may be more important is some sort of sand ladder or mud ladder. My experience with whinching, admittedly limited was that you would winch to get out of the worts trouble, and if you can get tracton, on a sand ladder/plate you are half way there. They used to sell sand plates, ex-military, for cheap, but I was unable to source any when I looked through the European sites two years back. New ones, lovdely to look at, cost the earth!
CJBNomad8654
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This past weekend we drove the truck and a car down to Kulmbach. We dropped the car at Taubenreuther and headed into the Czech Republic for some cheap down hill skiing, cross country skiing, swimming, and sauna action; great food, great accommodations, and great prices. I like the Czech Republic. It was considerably colder there, and the mountains were covered with dense pine forests, branches supporting pounds of snow snatched from its drift to earth. The roads were clean and smooth, and the border checkpoint a thing of the past. After a short stay from Saturday night until Monday morning we headed back into German and dropped the truck at Taubenreuther GmbH, but not before some excellent service. We were introduced to the lead technician, Juergen Teichert, who turns out to be a very knowledgeable man who has supported various races across North Africa. He and Bernd (marketing) walked us through our proposed list actually, and sincerely, discussing the pros and cons of each item and where we could save money. I had gone overboard with a few items, and they helped us dial in what we needed for this trip, and what would and would not do the job. I found the service and sincerity refreshing and honest. We left our truck in their capable hands and have since headed back north, but I continue researching, questioning, and analyzing.
Maybe it's my military background, but I like to take a layered approach to my preparations. I figure the better prepared you are the further you can go, and the further away from civilization you can travel. Look at vehicle mobile and foot mobile. There is a huge difference (literally) in what you can carry on your back and what a truck can carry, but you are likely to both drive and walk. If you are truly prepared then you can leave your vehicle and walk to safety - why? Just in case of a catastrophic mechanical failure outside of range of communication; the no-comm plan. Good communication is necessary, but it can and will fail - even sat phones. Water, food, and shelter are most important, fire, communication, first aid, and then the ability to repair your gear. I always carry a survival kit of the basic essentials. These items can vary a bit depending on your environment, but there are tricks to getting by sometimes - for example, if you didn't take the time to learn about local vegetation then you can do the edible plant test - avoid plants with milky sap or hairy appearance. Rub a small piece on the inside of your forearm and wait 30 minutes. If no rash take a small piece and chew it and spit it out. Wait 30 minutes, if not sick then take a small piece and eat it - wait 30 minutes if not sick then consume with caution, as you may not have reached the right dose to effect your body. Carry a water collection device and the ability to transport water. A good knife with a locking blade (two locks rather than one) or a fixed blade knife - large enough to cut small pieces of wood or branches (so a little weight), but still legal and easily carried. Food - fishing line and hooks and good knowledge of snares and deadfalls. Get a small copy of say, The SAS Survival Manual, and carry it as well. Fire - get one of the striking flints made now. You can start a fire with little skill with one of those, but practice a bit first. Dress appropriately for the environment; bring good shoes if you plan to wander off the path, and a sewing kit to repair your clothing. Learn to make shelter or pack a poncho or thermal blanket in your kit. This should all easily fit into a small pouch or container that you can carry on your body.
Now that you have these items look at your vehicle. Food, and water are still a priority, but now there are more options available for carrying it. You can get the ready-to-eat meals for an emergency and keep one or two stashed somewhere, then get a fridge or cooler so you can hold food for longer periods and keep it fresh. Carry a large water container - depends on where and how long. The amount depends on your fitness and the environment, you should be drinking two sips of water every 15 minutes. You can survive on less, but since you aren't carrying the water you might as well have enough. 5-gallon water jugs are good, Nalgene bottles, 1.5 liter bottles in the fridge, a 20l jug in the floor or a 50l on the roof. I can tell you that it isn't necessarily true that you'll need a lot more water in the dry desert or humid jungles than you'll need in a cold place, but on average just sitting around that is true. You will sweat a lot more and lose water rapidly in the heat, but if you are working hard in the cold you will also dehydrate quickly, especially if you are not staying warm. Bring a fishing pole and tackle box if there is nearby water. Fishing is always an easy way of getting some food and water if you need it. You can cut the fish open and drink the water that pools in its body, or just eat it.
The truck, if you really want to be self-sufficient should have at least a front winch that will pull a minimum of 1.5 times your fully loaded vehicle, but to really get out of a mess you'll probably have to double the line with your snatch block. If you have a stronger winch then you'll be good. Seemingly way overkill, but we had 24000 lbs. winches on our G-Wagons. No need to worry about enough power there, but you can use the winch for other things than just getting unstuck (pulling things down or out of the way, logs to crevices and deep water/channels/wadis, etc.).
Fuel and fuel capacity - Extended range tanks are nice but need protection. If you bust a hole in one you basically lose all of you extra fuel. If you put them in jerry cans it is more work, but fuel of varying qualities can be separated and you can filter it as it goes in. You can also filter fuel into a large reserve. Having more fuel means you can go further. You'll have to understand how the extra weight will affect your vehicles performance.
Spare tires came in handier than any other gear (besides heavy guns) that I have carried on a truck. We argued over run-flats because of their weight and decided on regular bead lock tires. We had to change flats a few times, but practicing with your gear makes it an easier task. Spare wheels can also be used to anchor the winch in soft sand or mud if there is no tree or stump available, and a rimless spare can be lashed to the front as a bulbar of sorts allowing you to ram other vehicles with no damage to your own front end.
Other gear includes the, some would say obvious, High-lift jack as it can be used to lift for tire changes, and to get wheels out of ruts, shift the tire patch to a nearby rock or other surface, or as a come-along, etc. Spare fuel filters or a pen that can be used to bypass the fuel filter if you really need to get moving right this minute. Snatch straps are also necessary, and if you travel with a buddy you can rig one to the front and one to the rear then wrap them around and hang them with clevises to the mirror then your buddy can drive by and hand you his through the window and you attach it to yours - his rear to your front and just keep driving and no one has to get out to rig up for the tow. You can spend the money for a tent or sleep in the truck or on the ground. In Africa, having slept on the ground there at Sevuti, I can say I personally prefer a night in a RTT as far as anxiety goes. Though things usually leave you alone I almost got stepped on by an elephant and had hyena cackling 10m outside the tent at night. An axe is good for cutting firewood and also cutting trees and branches out of the way. A compressor is good to have to inflate your tires when you get out of sand, etc. We had systems under the hood controlled from the cab enabling tire inflation and and deflation on-the-move, but I don't think that is necessary unless you plan on doing weapons runs in Sudan. Straps are a must for tying down gear so your head doesn't get smashed or you don't lose it, and a spade so you can dig yourself out. I don't know. I'm still trying to make the transition to normal life, so I may be overdoing it here, but I must say I felt quite comfortable and confident knowing we had all of this stuff, and you can purchase items of high technological design to cut down on the weight. In addition to all of this we carried M2 .50 calibers with extra barrels, 240G with extra barrels, M19, M4s, ammunition, rucks (bergens for you Brits), optics, radios and not much else. I never had a problem getting anywhere, including up crevices in the sides of cliffs. I found that more important than the gear was knowing how to drive the truck in what conditions, knowing (from inside the cab) where your diffs and transfer case are (for rock crawling), understanding the tire patch, picking a good line or route, understanding approach angles, and knowing when to stop and think rather than just gunning and going for it (there is a time for that as well). All this said this is what I have approved for the build:
Koni Raids, 70mm lift, extra heavy coils, castor kit, new brakes, belts and fluids. A newew steering damper, 166l auxiliary tank, bulbar with 9500 lbs winch, rear steel bumper with wheel carrier and jerry can holder, full roof rack with roof top tent (RTT), jerry can holders/water holders, a 50L water tank, 360 degrees of lighting (LED), portable compressor, two drawers in back, 70l fridge, fridge slide, fridge cover, a dual battery system, shovel, 152cm HiLift with cover, HiLift bumper and rim adapters, tire patch kit, recovery kit including snatch strap, winch cable extension, shackles, snatch block, and blanket for the cable while under tension, underbody protection, a snorkel, X-Trax II, and 300w inverter.
Maybe it's my military background, but I like to take a layered approach to my preparations. I figure the better prepared you are the further you can go, and the further away from civilization you can travel. Look at vehicle mobile and foot mobile. There is a huge difference (literally) in what you can carry on your back and what a truck can carry, but you are likely to both drive and walk. If you are truly prepared then you can leave your vehicle and walk to safety - why? Just in case of a catastrophic mechanical failure outside of range of communication; the no-comm plan. Good communication is necessary, but it can and will fail - even sat phones. Water, food, and shelter are most important, fire, communication, first aid, and then the ability to repair your gear. I always carry a survival kit of the basic essentials. These items can vary a bit depending on your environment, but there are tricks to getting by sometimes - for example, if you didn't take the time to learn about local vegetation then you can do the edible plant test - avoid plants with milky sap or hairy appearance. Rub a small piece on the inside of your forearm and wait 30 minutes. If no rash take a small piece and chew it and spit it out. Wait 30 minutes, if not sick then take a small piece and eat it - wait 30 minutes if not sick then consume with caution, as you may not have reached the right dose to effect your body. Carry a water collection device and the ability to transport water. A good knife with a locking blade (two locks rather than one) or a fixed blade knife - large enough to cut small pieces of wood or branches (so a little weight), but still legal and easily carried. Food - fishing line and hooks and good knowledge of snares and deadfalls. Get a small copy of say, The SAS Survival Manual, and carry it as well. Fire - get one of the striking flints made now. You can start a fire with little skill with one of those, but practice a bit first. Dress appropriately for the environment; bring good shoes if you plan to wander off the path, and a sewing kit to repair your clothing. Learn to make shelter or pack a poncho or thermal blanket in your kit. This should all easily fit into a small pouch or container that you can carry on your body.
Now that you have these items look at your vehicle. Food, and water are still a priority, but now there are more options available for carrying it. You can get the ready-to-eat meals for an emergency and keep one or two stashed somewhere, then get a fridge or cooler so you can hold food for longer periods and keep it fresh. Carry a large water container - depends on where and how long. The amount depends on your fitness and the environment, you should be drinking two sips of water every 15 minutes. You can survive on less, but since you aren't carrying the water you might as well have enough. 5-gallon water jugs are good, Nalgene bottles, 1.5 liter bottles in the fridge, a 20l jug in the floor or a 50l on the roof. I can tell you that it isn't necessarily true that you'll need a lot more water in the dry desert or humid jungles than you'll need in a cold place, but on average just sitting around that is true. You will sweat a lot more and lose water rapidly in the heat, but if you are working hard in the cold you will also dehydrate quickly, especially if you are not staying warm. Bring a fishing pole and tackle box if there is nearby water. Fishing is always an easy way of getting some food and water if you need it. You can cut the fish open and drink the water that pools in its body, or just eat it.
The truck, if you really want to be self-sufficient should have at least a front winch that will pull a minimum of 1.5 times your fully loaded vehicle, but to really get out of a mess you'll probably have to double the line with your snatch block. If you have a stronger winch then you'll be good. Seemingly way overkill, but we had 24000 lbs. winches on our G-Wagons. No need to worry about enough power there, but you can use the winch for other things than just getting unstuck (pulling things down or out of the way, logs to crevices and deep water/channels/wadis, etc.).
Fuel and fuel capacity - Extended range tanks are nice but need protection. If you bust a hole in one you basically lose all of you extra fuel. If you put them in jerry cans it is more work, but fuel of varying qualities can be separated and you can filter it as it goes in. You can also filter fuel into a large reserve. Having more fuel means you can go further. You'll have to understand how the extra weight will affect your vehicles performance.
Spare tires came in handier than any other gear (besides heavy guns) that I have carried on a truck. We argued over run-flats because of their weight and decided on regular bead lock tires. We had to change flats a few times, but practicing with your gear makes it an easier task. Spare wheels can also be used to anchor the winch in soft sand or mud if there is no tree or stump available, and a rimless spare can be lashed to the front as a bulbar of sorts allowing you to ram other vehicles with no damage to your own front end.
Other gear includes the, some would say obvious, High-lift jack as it can be used to lift for tire changes, and to get wheels out of ruts, shift the tire patch to a nearby rock or other surface, or as a come-along, etc. Spare fuel filters or a pen that can be used to bypass the fuel filter if you really need to get moving right this minute. Snatch straps are also necessary, and if you travel with a buddy you can rig one to the front and one to the rear then wrap them around and hang them with clevises to the mirror then your buddy can drive by and hand you his through the window and you attach it to yours - his rear to your front and just keep driving and no one has to get out to rig up for the tow. You can spend the money for a tent or sleep in the truck or on the ground. In Africa, having slept on the ground there at Sevuti, I can say I personally prefer a night in a RTT as far as anxiety goes. Though things usually leave you alone I almost got stepped on by an elephant and had hyena cackling 10m outside the tent at night. An axe is good for cutting firewood and also cutting trees and branches out of the way. A compressor is good to have to inflate your tires when you get out of sand, etc. We had systems under the hood controlled from the cab enabling tire inflation and and deflation on-the-move, but I don't think that is necessary unless you plan on doing weapons runs in Sudan. Straps are a must for tying down gear so your head doesn't get smashed or you don't lose it, and a spade so you can dig yourself out. I don't know. I'm still trying to make the transition to normal life, so I may be overdoing it here, but I must say I felt quite comfortable and confident knowing we had all of this stuff, and you can purchase items of high technological design to cut down on the weight. In addition to all of this we carried M2 .50 calibers with extra barrels, 240G with extra barrels, M19, M4s, ammunition, rucks (bergens for you Brits), optics, radios and not much else. I never had a problem getting anywhere, including up crevices in the sides of cliffs. I found that more important than the gear was knowing how to drive the truck in what conditions, knowing (from inside the cab) where your diffs and transfer case are (for rock crawling), understanding the tire patch, picking a good line or route, understanding approach angles, and knowing when to stop and think rather than just gunning and going for it (there is a time for that as well). All this said this is what I have approved for the build:
Koni Raids, 70mm lift, extra heavy coils, castor kit, new brakes, belts and fluids. A newew steering damper, 166l auxiliary tank, bulbar with 9500 lbs winch, rear steel bumper with wheel carrier and jerry can holder, full roof rack with roof top tent (RTT), jerry can holders/water holders, a 50L water tank, 360 degrees of lighting (LED), portable compressor, two drawers in back, 70l fridge, fridge slide, fridge cover, a dual battery system, shovel, 152cm HiLift with cover, HiLift bumper and rim adapters, tire patch kit, recovery kit including snatch strap, winch cable extension, shackles, snatch block, and blanket for the cable while under tension, underbody protection, a snorkel, X-Trax II, and 300w inverter.
CJBNomad8654
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Shane from LabRak, after an hour and a half at FedEx, was finally able to ship the Custom Designed 80-series Modular Roof Rack in 13 separate boxes. A few weeks ago I had a conversation on the phone with Shane, and with George and Nick from Expedition Lighting Systems (ELS). The two companies needed to work together as Shane would need to design custom mounts for the lights that would allow them to attach to his rack. The conference call went well, ELS shipped most of the lights to me in Germany, and then sent a few to Shane so he could design the mounts and any necessary spacers to ensure proper fit. The lights and rack will be wired and assembled by Taubenreuther GmbH.To give you an understanding of the task facing Shane I will do my nest to describe the process. LabRak did not have a stock of racks for the 80-Series Land Cruiser (our model). So Shane, in just a few weeks (2 to be precise), needed to design a full sized roof rack, custom mounts (gutter variation), with trays for water and fuel, as well as the ability to mount a roof top tent. The design needed to be field/bush repairable (if necessary), and versatile enough to configure it and then reconfigure it for different purposes (overland travel – recovery vehicle – safaris). After designing the rack, he then had to outsource the manufacture of some of the parts that weren’t in stock due to their specific fit to the 80-Series.Not only did Shane complete the design, he was also able to arrange the manufacture of new custom parts, and drive the timeline of the manufacturer to meet our schedule. Upon receipt of the parts, he didn’t just throw them in a box and ship them as quickly as possible; he remained cool, and kept me informed. Shane spent a number of late nights assembling and reassembling the rack, removing rivets and replacing them with bolts and thread lock nuts, and putting reinforced joints where he thought necessary. He also configured the rack in a variety of ways, took pictures of the different options and sent them to me via email to review and select the best for our needs. At the end of these time consuming builds he had created a very strong, very rigid, and spacious rack that met all of our requirements.
Shane removed the rivets and replaced them with bolts and thread lock nuts to ensure that the rack is field repairable. He also included extra parts. Photo Courtesy LabRak
The support beam for the seven jerry can mounts. This beam also allows us to stack other items on the rack and has tie down eyes attached on top. Photo Courtesy LabRak
The rack can be mounted with the can carriers on the front or the back, and can have a roof top tent mounted to either end. Sounds like no big deal considering most other rack companies can do the same thing. The difference I am seeing thus far is that the design is completely different from any other rack on the market. Rather than being a fabricated rack that is mass produced and then later adapted by the end user, LabRak creates custom racks up front to ensure all that is necessary is mounting. The rack is of a modular design, which means that it can be modified in size, attachment points and types, and has the ability to integrate (not just attach) different, very robust mounts for other tools.
Photo Courtesy LabRak
Here, the rack has an awning mount as well as Jerry Can holders. Photo Courtesy LabRak
An example is the jerry can holders integrated into the rack design. Rather than having holders that attach to the surface of the rack planks, this design places the mounts a as part of the rack, and they are attached lower in the rack frame to reduce drag and lower the weight that is placed on the roof. An individual mount is solid, low profile, and secured by a large latch that swings over the can and locks into place with a cotter pin tethered to the mount. A second pin is tethered to the can and holds the cap in place. Our rack has seven jerry can mounts across its entire width. Between the fourth and fifth mount is a bar that increases support and the rigidity of the rack. It also has tie down eyes that allow us to stack other items, such as firewood, in place of the cans, and then tie them down with straps. It is quite a versatile system.
Seven cans across. Photo Courtesy LabRak
Jerry Can mounts. Photo Courtesy LabRak
The cotter pin and tether for the Jerry Can caps. Photo Courtesy LabRak
Cotter pin and tether for the Jerry Can mount latch. Photo Courtesy LabRak
In addition to the can holders there is also a mount for a shovel, and a very nicely designed Hi-Lift jack mount. Shane also designed and included a fishing rod holder, and added a rod sleeve designed and sewn together by his mother. I thought that was a very nice personal touch.
The Hi-Lift roof rack mount. Photo Courtesy LabRak
Side view of the Hi-Lift mounting system. Photo Courtesy LabRak
Jack attachment hardware. Photo Courtesy LabRak
LabRak didn’t stop there, in addition to the mounting hardware and rack, they included a variety of extra parts, differing sizes of light mounts, and spacers and adapters. Over all, their attention to detail, and quality of service and support has been outstanding. Shane had this to say, “I want you to know that I am committed to you, the cause and everything you represent. So over the year I’ll keep you in the loop on new products and do what I can to make sure you have the newest gear.”We appreciate the tireless effort Shane put into designing, manufacturing, and shipping of our rack. He did this with a charitable heart and we hope to see his business succeed over the coming years. When the rack arrives and Taubenreuther mounts it, we will provide more pictures as well as photos of the completed truck build. In addition, we will gives future updates on rack quality, mount quality, service quality, and detailed reports on the use of each item.
Boxed and ready for shipment. Photo Courtesy LabRak
Shane removed the rivets and replaced them with bolts and thread lock nuts to ensure that the rack is field repairable. He also included extra parts. Photo Courtesy LabRak
The support beam for the seven jerry can mounts. This beam also allows us to stack other items on the rack and has tie down eyes attached on top. Photo Courtesy LabRak
The rack can be mounted with the can carriers on the front or the back, and can have a roof top tent mounted to either end. Sounds like no big deal considering most other rack companies can do the same thing. The difference I am seeing thus far is that the design is completely different from any other rack on the market. Rather than being a fabricated rack that is mass produced and then later adapted by the end user, LabRak creates custom racks up front to ensure all that is necessary is mounting. The rack is of a modular design, which means that it can be modified in size, attachment points and types, and has the ability to integrate (not just attach) different, very robust mounts for other tools.
Photo Courtesy LabRak
Here, the rack has an awning mount as well as Jerry Can holders. Photo Courtesy LabRak
An example is the jerry can holders integrated into the rack design. Rather than having holders that attach to the surface of the rack planks, this design places the mounts a as part of the rack, and they are attached lower in the rack frame to reduce drag and lower the weight that is placed on the roof. An individual mount is solid, low profile, and secured by a large latch that swings over the can and locks into place with a cotter pin tethered to the mount. A second pin is tethered to the can and holds the cap in place. Our rack has seven jerry can mounts across its entire width. Between the fourth and fifth mount is a bar that increases support and the rigidity of the rack. It also has tie down eyes that allow us to stack other items, such as firewood, in place of the cans, and then tie them down with straps. It is quite a versatile system.
Seven cans across. Photo Courtesy LabRak
Jerry Can mounts. Photo Courtesy LabRak
The cotter pin and tether for the Jerry Can caps. Photo Courtesy LabRak
Cotter pin and tether for the Jerry Can mount latch. Photo Courtesy LabRak
In addition to the can holders there is also a mount for a shovel, and a very nicely designed Hi-Lift jack mount. Shane also designed and included a fishing rod holder, and added a rod sleeve designed and sewn together by his mother. I thought that was a very nice personal touch.
The Hi-Lift roof rack mount. Photo Courtesy LabRak
Side view of the Hi-Lift mounting system. Photo Courtesy LabRak
Jack attachment hardware. Photo Courtesy LabRak
LabRak didn’t stop there, in addition to the mounting hardware and rack, they included a variety of extra parts, differing sizes of light mounts, and spacers and adapters. Over all, their attention to detail, and quality of service and support has been outstanding. Shane had this to say, “I want you to know that I am committed to you, the cause and everything you represent. So over the year I’ll keep you in the loop on new products and do what I can to make sure you have the newest gear.”We appreciate the tireless effort Shane put into designing, manufacturing, and shipping of our rack. He did this with a charitable heart and we hope to see his business succeed over the coming years. When the rack arrives and Taubenreuther mounts it, we will provide more pictures as well as photos of the completed truck build. In addition, we will gives future updates on rack quality, mount quality, service quality, and detailed reports on the use of each item.
Boxed and ready for shipment. Photo Courtesy LabRak
Last edited:
Dave Docwra
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2010
- Messages
- 1,591
Only advice I would give is to keep the vehicle as light as possible, top heavy is not a good idea on some of the roads, If I was to do it again most of what I upgraded on my 80 would not be required.
My next adventure will be done with possibly a Toyota Hilux.
Dave.
My next adventure will be done with possibly a Toyota Hilux.
Dave.
