Heater not working

rynot

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Oct 20, 2015
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Hi folks

My heater in my Dec 98, HZJ105 R is not working.

Can someone supply me with a flow chart of tests to do so I can find whats wrong and then hopefully fix it myself.

The fan is working but no heat is coming out.

Many thanks, cheers.
Tony
 

Paddler Ed

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I am in australia
Aug 1, 2012
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Has it worked in the past?

If Yes, then check the valve that lets the water into heater core is still working

If No (or unknown) then the check the heater core hasn't been bypassed... and if it has been bypassed than expect to get a new heater core.

Also, as it's big diesel leave it a bit of time to warm up before expecting heat!

Those are my quick fixes, and ideas; I'm sure someone else will come in with more comprehensive diagnosis processes than that, but at least it's a start.

Ed
 
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rynot

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Oct 20, 2015
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Has it worked in the past?

If Yes, then check the valve that lets the water into heater core is still working

If No (or unknown) then the check the heater core hasn't been bypassed... and if it has been bypassed than expect to get a new heater core.

Also, as it's big diesel leave it a bit of time to warm up before expecting heat!

Those are my quick fixes, and ideas; I'm sure someone else will come in with more comprehensive diagnosis processes than that, but at least it's a start.

Ed
Thanks for the sugestions Ed.

Good point about if it has ever worked, have only just recently bought it and hadnt used it.
How can I get pictures of where the valve is and also the heater core location etc?
 

clivehorridge

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May 23, 2012
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I don't know the 105 heater system at all so I may be way off here, but on my 80 the water flow control valve is on the bulkhead behind (but above) the rocker cover.

It's operated by a solid core "inner and outer" cable (this is where it may differ on the 105) like an old fashioned bike brake.

The outer is clamped with a clip and the inner has a hook bent into it so it operates the valve lever in push or pull mode. On mine, the outer casing clip came adrift so instead of operating the lever, the outer casing was just moving backwards and forwards.

It's all simple stuff (if the same as mine) and easy to see how it works, so you can disconnect it and play with the lever when the engine is up to heat and see (feel) what's happening.

If you've done any draining to replace coolant, there's often a tendency to get an air lock. Opening and closing the valve can sometimes shift it or otherwise causing a restriction in the top radiator hose can sometimes "force" water around the heater circuit and shift the air lock.

As above, if there's any sign of open ended pipes coming through the bulkhead then the heater matrix may have been by-passed. You can see the circuit of heater pipes though, from a steel pipe on the engine block and follow it through to the valve, so if its been bypassed, it should be obvious.

If you or the PO has been using water in the system (without coolant) there may be an excess of rust in the water. This can collect in the heater matrix and block it. This is less usual these days, but in the past people did not know the importance of using a propriety coolant, providing rust inhibitors, lubricants for the water pump and other such. Debris in the matrix can sometimes be shifted by disconnecting the hoses at the bulkhead and flushing through with fresh water from a garden hose, alternating the direction of the flush, back and forth, until you get a free flow.

See how you get on. If you don't recognize what I've described, then the simple solution is buy an 80 :lol:

Good luck...:thumbup:
 
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rynot

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Oct 20, 2015
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I don't know the 105 heater system at all so I may be way off here, but on my 80 the water flow control valve is on the bulkhead behind (but above) the rocker cover.

It's operated by a solid core "inner and outer" cable (this is where it may differ on the 105) like an old fashioned bike brake.

The outer is clamped with a clip and the inner has a hook bent into it so it operates the valve lever in push or pull mode. On mine, the outer casing clip came adrift so instead of operating the lever, the outer casing was just moving backwards and forwards.

It's all simple stuff (if the same as mine) and easy to see how it works, so you can disconnect it and play with the lever when the engine is up to heat and see (feel) what's happening.

If you've done any draining to replace coolant, there's often a tendency to get an air lock. Opening and closing the valve can sometimes shift it or otherwise causing a restriction in the top radiator hose can sometimes "force" water around the heater circuit and shift the air lock.

As above, if there's any sign of open ended pipes coming through the bulkhead then the heater matrix may have been by-passed. You can see the circuit of heater pipes though, from a steel pipe on the engine block and follow it through to the valve, so if its been bypassed, it should be obvious.

If you or the PO has been using water in the system (without coolant) there may be an excess of rust in the water. This can collect in the heater matrix and block it. This is less usual these days, but in the past people did not know the importance of using a propriety coolant, providing rust inhibitors, lubricants for the water pump and other such. Debris in the matrix can sometimes be shifted by disconnecting the hoses at the bulkhead and flushing through with fresh water from a garden hose, alternating the direction of the flush, back and forth, until you get a free flow.

See how you get on. If you don't recognize what I've described, then the simple solution is buy an 80 :lol:

Good luck...:thumbup:
Thanks for this info.
The coolant hasnt been touched.
BUT their is 2 black rubber hoses that come through the firewall from inside the cabin and have been cut off a few inches into the engine bay!!!!!

So looks like it has been bypassed.
I need some guidence now as to where these 2 hoses would have attached in the engine bay...........I am a complete novice here and hate beeing ripped off by mechanics who say things are wrong when they arnt. So if it is a repair job that is beyond me I like to go armed with some knowledge so I can talk the talk with them.
 

clivehorridge

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Who knows what the heater was bypassed? Presumably you don't know.

One reason could be that the matrix developed a leak, but you won't know until you reconnect it, unless you attach a garden hose to one of the pipes and with the use of a blanked off hose on the other. This way, you may see water leaking into the cab from under the dash or look for a leak under the truck where the pipes go to the rear heater matrix (again I'm relating to my 80 which may be different). The rear pipes are steel and they are well known to rust and leak, but a leak here should be obvious within a few moments of connecting it to a water supply.

I don't know how else to guide you.

The heater pipes are fed from steel pipes coming from the engine block, so you should find them blanked off somehow, the usual way is with short lengths of rubber hose blanked off.
 

Shayne

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I don't know your truck either but an absent observation while browsing trucks for sale is the rear heater is often disconnected , perhaps due to leaks ? so it might be an idea to expose all the pipework starting from the rear before you hook it up .
 

rynot

New Member
Oct 20, 2015
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I don't know your truck either but an absent observation while browsing trucks for sale is the rear heater is often disconnected , perhaps due to leaks ? so it might be an idea to expose all the pipework starting from the rear before you hook it up .
Thankyou.
Would be good if I could find some photos or drawings of the layout of where all the components, pipes, switches etc are.
 

Chopped105

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I am in australia
Jul 26, 2016
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New to the group and not sure if I should start a new thread or not, have a 2000 HZJ 105series which we purchased in April & have been doing it up. One of the last things to do is tackle the heater which won't heat. Have checked hoses etc and seem to have narrowed it down to possibly something to do with the control unit. Before I dismantle the dash I thought I would see if there were any suggestions. When I turn the heater dial to hot and turn on the fan there is a clicking noise that persists for approx 20 seconds then stops. (no heat though). Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated.
 

flint

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Mar 11, 2014
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I’ve never needed to do it on my LC, and not sure if this applies here, but I used to have other vehicles where the heat output was severely reduced. The cause was usually a build up of scale in the matrix as mentioned. The cure was to disconnect the inlet and outlet pipes and after draining, fill the matrix with kettle descaler and leave it overnight. Then after a good flush through with a hose, this usually worked with one go, but a couple needed second application. Usually did the trick.
 

clivehorridge

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I am in romania
May 23, 2012
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New to the group and not sure if I should start a new thread or not, have a 2000 HZJ 105series which we purchased in April & have been doing it up. One of the last things to do is tackle the heater which won't heat. Have checked hoses etc and seem to have narrowed it down to possibly something to do with the control unit. Before I dismantle the dash I thought I would see if there were any suggestions. When I turn the heater dial to hot and turn on the fan there is a clicking noise that persists for approx 20 seconds then stops. (no heat though). Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated.
As a new member, I'd suggest you write a little introduction in the Introduction Section of this forum, just to announce yourself, your truck and a bit about the both of you, your experiences, whatever.

That way, folks will recognize you and as you may have gathered, do what they can to help when you post problems or anything else for that matter.

It's a fun and helpful place to be, as most on here have good intentions.

Anyway, an advance welcome to the forum from me prior to your intro, and enjoy being here and participating:thumbup:
 

Mssvland

New Member
I am in australia
Sep 22, 2016
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Hi mates,

Who can send me some pictures of heater core have been bypassed, I don't know if mine is...

Landcruiser 105 1hz
 

sam89

New Member
I am in australia
May 6, 2018
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So ive got a 1999 hzj105 and there is no heater tap on the firewall as a few members have described above. Is there a difference in some models? My heater has stopped working and am trying to locate the tap . Whats the best way to get to it through the dash?
 

clivehorridge

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I am in romania
May 23, 2012
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So ive got a 1999 hzj105 and there is no heater tap on the firewall as a few members have described above. Is there a difference in some models? My heater has stopped working and am trying to locate the tap . Whats the best way to get to it through the dash?
I can’t help you there, living in Romania, it’s a rare sight to see an 80 let alone a 105, so that’s reserved for you fortunate Aussies, where 105s are more aplenty.

But my 80 is an HZJ so at least the engine bit will / should be familiar. I’m always reluctant to post photos, because I’ve added a home-made heat exchanger to give me hot-wash wiper jets, and it might confuse folks.

Here goes anyway, if they’re of any assistance.

Basically, the single rubber hose coming from the RHS of the engine block (looking from the front) divides into 2, one going through the bulkhead for the underdash front heater core, the other is attached to a steel pipe that travels down the bulkhead, and under the floor to feed the rear heater core under the front passenger seat.

Likewise on the LHS of the engine block, the single rubber hose divides into 2 the same way.

On my 80, the on/off flow tap is mounted on the RHS, but as you say you don’t have this, I have no idea what controls the flow on your 105.

Here‘s some photos... for what they might be worth...

RHS engine, ignore the ribbed pipe (that’s cable sheathing) and the extreme right vertical rubber hose comes direct from the block and if you ignore my lagged copper pipe contraption, it would normally go direct to the tap. After the tap, on the left side, it curves back across to the right, then divides into 2, one going through the bulkhead for the front, the other going down to the rear heater. I’m repeating myself, aren’t I ....

78710B07-0DF2-45D4-9BCE-CF289E7E6B68.jpeg



Maybe easier to see on this next photo...

4428DBDE-EDF5-4109-BAA2-2507ED9529BA.jpeg




This is my heat exchanger contraption (that works very well in sub -20C winter here) so ignore that....

9342B0EC-F26A-4CCA-911B-1BDA6F3C2F2C.jpeg



LHS very similar, but mirror image, but no tap. Again, the hose from the engine block is the vertical one coming up center photo. On this view, it’s easier to see where it divides into 2.... the rear hose curving down to its steel pipe that runs down the bulkhead and under the floor to the rear heater.

98519960-ECC1-48B7-91E1-119D1F7440B0.jpeg



That’s it for the engine bay part of the circuit, I hope some of this makes sense. It’s very simple on mine, which is a ‘95/96 model, but yours being later might be electronically controlled.... I wouldn’t know.

BTW, the steel pipes are well known for rusting away, and the ones that go to the rear are the most vulnerable, and often the reason for being blanked off. I’ve seen some whee the steel pipes have been replaced with copper tube or long rubber hoses.

Best of luck....
 
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