Hinge removal and filling holes.

[40 Channel]

I Continuing to clean up the tub of my FJ40 getting it ready for sand blasting. and paint.
Removed the door hinges which was not as easy as undoing as couple of bolts!
As well as welded up over 25 holes in the tub that should not have been there.

 

[40 Channel]

So over the Christmas break I have been putting in a fair bit of work on my 40 series,
Stripped all the paint off by hand to ensure that there was no more hidden rust or repairs.
Then took the whole cruiser down to the sandblaster, after this clean and prepped the panels and body for primer followed by coating the inside and under body in tintable Raptor Liner (Toyota 416)
3 Days straight
9 hours of Sandblasting
16 hours of prep, clean and prime/paint

 

[Rodger]

Hi,

I have been watching when I have time and the 40 is shaping up well.
A tip I picked up years back which may help is when you have applied filler and then the stopper mist the section with mat black from a rattle can and then lightly sand and it will show any missed pin holes.

I just watched you re-installing the springs and axles: The reason you have the 4 degree plates in the front is because your hangers are extended (possibly 2") and they bring the camber angle back to true. Also the front base plate should lip should face east/west thus affording some protection to the bolts. 60 ones have a deep lip all round and protect the threads and nuts from damage and IMO you have 60 series u bolts - wider spread.
The 60 series has a rubber insert between the spring and the axle, although to fit them you may need the longer spring pin. With the rubber bushes fitted, the inserts relieve some of the shock that would be currently borne by the hanger bushes and therefore make the ride better. The poly bushes are harder but do tend to develop a squeak in time. We recently re-worked my rear suspension and the ride is noticeably better with new 60 series inserts.
Can't help with the front suspension as mine is a combination of 60 series axle, PS, and P38 coils and radius arms.
As the hangers are giving some lift then your shocks need to match that lift and they will help the ride. Stock ones will, as you no doubt appreciate, will have lost a large percentage of their travel and therefore effectiveness.

Hope that helps.

Regards,

Rodger

 

[40 Channel]

Thank you, Rodger for your advice, I really appreciate any help and tip along the way. You are right about the poly bushes which is why I have gone with the rubber ones, I had read about the 4 degree plates helping with the camber angle, It's good to know that they are in there to help although one is steel and the other aluminium, I am keen to get new ones the same down the track when I get the suspension all sorted to the correct weight front and rear of the FJ40.
My 40 series is a bit of mix of 60 series running gear and I'm trying to learn what the last owners have done and what is 40 and what is 60. It has the 2h motor and gear box with rear brake setup from the 60, as well as all the dodgy wiring setup (which I am slowing cleaning up and re-building in the back ground of the build). Now that your have told me about the 60 front plates with the deep lip all round to protect the threads I would be keen to change them to theses and the new 60 series inserts too, I will look into chasing some down. Thank you again your a legend mate!

 

[Rodger]

I hadn't realised that your 40 had a 2H etc... Does it have 60 series axles?
The major problem that I encountered was the 40 voltage regulator cannot handle the 60 series alternator and for years I had overcharging (there is a thread on here) but we overcame that last year when I got a 60 series alternator with an internal VR and @Dave2000 rewired the charging circuit and now it works perfectly. I am seeing him this weekend and I'll ask him to circuit diagram the revised charging system using an internal VR for you. My truck is all 24v but being Oz yours will be 12v.
By the looks of the hangers you have 40 series springs which are narrower than 60 series (970mm v 1030mm). I have a pair of ali 4 degree plates and extended pins (same part number for both 40 & 60 series) which I bought when trying to sort my suspension but never used. You can have them if you want.
The 60 series handbrake cable links to the 40 series handbrake ( not sure if it does for the dash mounted one but being a '77 yours shouldn't be dash mounted). If your parking brake works on the rear axle then it is from a 60 series and the prop mounted hand brake (40) won't fit on the 60 series gearbox without major work. If you have a prop mounted brake then the previous owner has replaced the transfer box output shaft. The 60 series axles are slightly wider so measure both axles as they may have changed both - discs on the front would imply a 60 series axle as discs were not fitted to the 40 series axle until approx '80 and then on Europe spec with others later.

Hope that helps

Regards,

Rodger

 

[Rodger]

Hi,
Dave could not remember what he did with my alternator wiring but said he'd try and think about it. And if he does, he would draw a diagram.

With red cab '65 put the vin number into www.toydiy.com and it will tell exactly what it is, aside from being one hell of a find!

Regards,

Rodger

 

[40 Channel]

Thanks Rodger!

I now have a roller!