How long for an engine swap?

[Snozz]

Looks like the bottom end has gone on my 1996 '90 SWB. It's driving, but knocking a bit and smoking like a bugger!

After consultation with a few in the know, I've decided to go for a replacement engine from a known vehicle that has been properly looked after and serviced etc.

What I would like a ballpark figure on is how long it would take to swap the engines over.

- How long do you think for a specialist garage who've done it before

- How long for me and some mechanically minded assistants

Just trying to toy up whether just to pay the garage and have it done quickly with the knowledge that all should be where it needs to be...

Cheers
Snozz

 

[Beau]

For somehow who knows these engines, it's a easy job. A days work max to have both engines out, and the replacement one in. I have swapped my engine once already and it took two days but I took my time and it was the first for me.

If you've got the tools, and a nice hoist, it's a real straight forward job. The thing with taking it to mechanics is sometimes they can easily rush the job and damage something.

 

[SafariTecPeter]

Not to go head on in an argument with BEAU here, but thats abit optimistic.

From what I understand, remowing an engine from an Autobox is way easier than a manual as there is JUST enough space to clear the engine forward with an austobox. & YES it is tight.
I would say You can recon a full day of labour in a reasonable equipped workshop dropping in the engine & having it service ready to drive off....
The small things DO take their time.
I fitted a complete KZTE engine off a pallet with the loom on in roughly a (long!) day. My better half helped me dropping it in as we had an engine hoist "only".
So, inn all honesty-> Budget with the best of 3 (normal) days for 2 engines out & 1 going in abit depending on skills & number of qualified help.

 

[Beau]

Well the reason for my optimistic 2 day was because he asked for someone who's familiar with these engines. I understand someone who's new to the engine or who's never removed one before should take there time.

Having had my cruiser for the last 17 years, I'm pretty familiar with just about every bolt on it! I'm fairly confident I could have an engine out and new one in, in a day with a little assistance from someone else.

 

[SafariTecPeter]

If pressed on time, I`d agree with You BEAU. Help is indeed handy.....
As You say; You know every bolt&nut. Probably You have loosened it at least once on the past & know nothing is seized. I have such vehicles myself.

On a similar but new to me vehicle I`d be reluctant to gamble on it..

Besides, there is the Q is the OP has an Auto or Manual box....

 

[Beau]

Totally agree.

I didn't find it too tight with my autobox. I did remove the front rad and pulled the condenser to the side, more so to prevent possible damage than space but maybe this is why I didn't struggle with space?

The hardest part was the bell housing bolts on the top side of the engine (getting my hand back there). However on, the replacement engine I had removed all the EGR pipes back there and it became much easier.

A hoist that can lift high enough and is sturdy makes easy work of mounervering the engine in/out

 

[SafariTecPeter]

We are on the same page Beau

I took it out with the rad in. certainly pulle the rad when the lump dropped back in... WAY easier.

The bell housing bolts I felt where fair enough if one suspends the engine from a hoist & fiddle about with the engine mounts.... I had them off when the engine went in too as there is more space sideways when mating tranny&engine.
I never took the starter off IIRC
The thing that gave me the most grief where the converter bolts.......

I am looking at doing a manual tranny engine swap in the winter. Thats probably going to teach me some new swear words...

 

[t1pper]

I have never done this job but I have swapped enough engines to know sometimes what appears straight forwards can end up being a fair bit more involved, even if you are an old hand.
Snapped bolts, leaking fuel unions, build differences between even similar type engines can slow the progression.
You always end up doing some service work along the way such as washing dirty rads, replace perished rubber hoses cleaning electrical connectors and such it all adds up.
Not forgetting if you do the job at home you have the hassle disposal of old oil and filters
All these slight wrinkles can add up to be a fair few hours extra work.
My gut tells me that to do a swap would be more than a day's work even for someone with a good workshop.

 

[Beau]

Yes, the converter bolts can be a pain. A right size 14mm spanner and someone to turn the engine over whilst you torque them up helps.

Any reason why you're going for the manual box over the auto? Would you also need to run the Manual version ECU? Something tells me you can probably get away with staying put with the Auto one.

 

[SafariTecPeter]

Any reason why you're going for the manual box over the auto? Would you also need to run the Manual version ECU? Something tells me you can probably get away with staying put with the Auto one.

If You refer to my previouse post, I take it there is a misunderstanding. We are not replacing the Auto box. My cross-reference to the engine with a manual box is related to a different car.
You are correct however, if going for the manual conversion, it would be best to get loom & Ecu off a manual version.