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Intervolt DCC Pro DC DC split charge system

Thanks Grant, I’ll take a look at that later, sounds very informative. Whatever happens that 1800A has to be controlled with a suitable fuse ON the battery terminal and needs good electrical practice when installing, insulating terminals and such. With correct installation there should be no problem and having individual cells should make it easier to locate a large capacity battery.

Interesting.
 
The comment about a fuse on the battery terminal makes me think. The packs are generally like this with fusing just for the whole pack.

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Those could be split and connected in a row if needed. Ie flat. I would say fuse at the + of the battery and protect all those terminals from ever being shorted by anything, bent up car panel in a crash or roll included.
 
Just a quickie for any DCC users. I assumed if you had a solar panel connected to the DCC that it would charge the main vehicle starting battery as well as the leisure battery, but mine seems not too.

Also, the display seems to have quite a delay (I think) from when you switch off the engine (and thus stopping conventional charging) in showing the voltage of the leisure battery. Mine still says "STA float" 13.2V for a good few hours after stopping the engine
 
You got one then Michael?
What have Intervolt said about this? I’ve found them very helpful.
 
A quick update on these.

Intervolt have at the beginning of October, launched the new R2-0 version of the DCC Pro. This entirely replaces the R1-0 with a few significant changes.

Firstly they now cater for lithium (LiFePo4) batteries which have a built in battery management system (I’ve asked if batteries without BMS but with an added stand alone BMS count as the same thing, I’ll update when I hear back).

Second is that the solar capacity has been increased to the limit of the charger at 25A rather than 250w (300w peak) of the R1-0. This gives the ability to accommodate 3 stage charging from the solar.

Third is a bit of a trade off in that the DCC no longer charges the vehicle battery from solar.

All other specs stay the same.

I now have these in stock for next day delivery (plus 1 day despatch). :dance:

Price is £408.66 with insured next day delivery, a little more than last year but as before, PM me for club prices.
 
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I'm very happy with my mk 1 version tbh. It's a shame that the mk 2 doesn't charge the car battery though. My solar panel is plugged it when truck stands for a couple of days or more, ensuring all 3 batteries are ready for action
 
I'm very happy with my mk 1 version tbh. It's a shame that the mk 2 doesn't charge the car battery though. My solar panel is plugged it when truck stands for a couple of days or more, ensuring all 3 batteries are ready for action
I agree, I think it’s a backwards step but the gains outweigh this loss in my opinion.

Do you have yours set for voltage switch on, or is it linked to the ignition? I ask as this make a difference to how the solar charging behaves.

I will ask if simply linking the batteries would restore the vehicle battery charging capability though.
 
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Linked to ignition, ie only get a display whilst ignition on. (With a delay when switched off) when I plug my solar panel in after a short delay I get an aqua marine flashy disc on the unit....its mounted in the passenger footwell btw
:)
 
The solar capacity of the R1 is listed in the manual as 250 Watts nominal (300 Watts peak). Either way, the increased solar capacity of the R2 is a significant upgrade.
 
The solar capacity of the R1 is listed in the manual as 250 Watts nominal (300 Watts peak). Either way, the increased solar capacity of the R2 is a significant upgrade.
Thanks Lorin, I was being lazy and running on memory (not the best these days). Edited now. :)
 
Right, after owning the Intervolt DCC Pro for almost a year now I have decided to fit it :laughing:

One question, the terminal marked 'Ign'. I know it's for a switched live but I see it is optional to wire that terminal or not. What are the pros/cons for wiring a switched live to that terminal?
I am having problems understanding what the manual means.

charging mode.jpg
 
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Pro, it switches with the ignition so is always on at the same time every time you start the vehicle.
It could be wired to a switch or other control if desired (though this would be a bit special).

Cons, it prevents the solar from tripping the internal link between the two batteries and charging the starter battery along with the leisure battery. A bi-product of this is that the DCC Pro will be switched on by the solar charging triggering the unit on.
It needs a wire to it, so not ideal for use in a trailer.

Can’t think of anything else at the mo. :)


So, if you want solar charging to both leisure and starter battery then leave it as volt sense. Even if you do connect the wire, you can program it to volt sense.
 
Thanks for the reply.
So if I'm adding a solar panel (which I am) it's best to leave the ignition wire off?
Another dumb question, I am right in thinking if the leisure battery gets discharged while parked up it will not then start flattening the main battery?
 
You can fit the wire if you wish, the choice between ignition switching and volt sensing is made using the little screen control.
The leisure battery will certainly not discharge the starter battery under any normal circumstances.
 
Right, a year after buying one of these I am finally getting round to fitting it, I don't rush things :grinning:

What size cable do I need from the main battery to the Intervolt and from the Intervolt to the auxiliary battery?

The alternator is rated at 80 amps so logic tells me to use a greater amperage cable 110 amp maybe. But, the Intervolt is rated at 25 amps so will a 50 amp (or less) cable be okay?
 
As a reminder I have stock of the Mark 2 version of these. Same features except they have replaced starter battery solar charging with lithium charging capability. PM for pricing.
 
Apologies to Bat as I’ve only just seen your post. After more than a year this is going to be if no use to you Bat but for anyone else the answer is to run a minimum 25A cable and five it accordingly ar both batteries as close as possible to the terminals. That said, if there is any distance involved, go up a wire size for every 2m run as a simple rule. Also consider if the wire needs to be protected against sharp edges.
Personally I would use a minimum of 6mm going up to 10mm for longer runs. This gives less resistance and helps get all the volts to come out the other end without losing many on the way.
 
Hello Rich have you still got the mk1 version in stock as thinking of fitting one cheers steve
 
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