iwan's hdj81

[Iwan]

I agree with you from research.. I do like the front plates like yours and they are easily available (iron man).. when I did the experimental offset bushes on the lj70 (junk) it resulted in the steering rod touching the radius arm as you described.

So with dropping the back of the arm, they suggest to lower the amount of the lift. I like the principle as it keeps the radius arm as stock anglewise.. not sure but braking at higher speed you are getting a direct line of force back to the chassis. Unlike the lower in the diagram.. I'm sure that steeper the angle the more stress to the components at high speed braking.. just a thought.

All good information thanks

 

[karl webster]

I have a couple of sets of plates Iwan.

good truck for the money mate. The imports always hold out better than the uk ones regarding the rust

 

[Iwan]

I have a couple of sets of plates Iwan.

good truck for the money mate. The imports always hold out better than the uk ones regarding the rust

Sound man, ill go for a pair and the drivers side light.. we can sort some postage on it too be grand.. cheers mate

 

[Ben]

Looking good Iwan.

. like you looking forward to the rise of the 81 and of course the test run up "the pheasant steps" rock crawl (caution in the wet tho)!!

I'm sure I read recently that they've all been filled in and graded.

Think it was on one of Dave (Bits4Vits) blogs.

 

[Iwan]

Looking good Iwan.



I'm sure I read recently that they've all been filled in and graded.

Think it was on one of Dave (Bits4Vits) blogs.

Cheers Ben. .. really they've filled up the holes at the pheasant steps.. I'll have to look into it!!!
Maybe its the top track that goes past the mobile phone mast... if its the steps then a wet winter will erode it back!!
All the best with the xmas break mate..

 

[Chris]

I've just serviced my front prop this morning and looked at the flange face angles. Very clearly the prop is coming out of the T box much steeper than it is going into the diff. No need to measure it. It's almost as though I have over corrected. I need to sit and look at it for a while. It looks like the bottom illustration in the diagram you posted

 

[Iwan]

I've just serviced my front prop this morning and looked at the flange face angles. Very clearly the prop is coming out of the T box much steeper than it is going into the diff. No need to measure it. It's almost as though I have over corrected. I need to sit and look at it for a while. It looks like the bottom illustration in the diagram you posted

Thats interesting Chris.. I noticed your post earlier on my mobile whist I was sorting out the rust on the doors..

It kinda begs the question- "how do you accurately measure the castor?"

Before I joined the forum when heavily researching 60 series "spring over axle" procedures (I had to put my eyes back into their sockets often!) with a 8" lift.

The way I realised to accurately measure was when you have the front axle stripped to its bare bones and on axle stands with a fully loaded front end on it sat on completely level ground. To fit a good fitting steel bar through the steering knuckles and use a digital angle measurer off the vertical. To get a dead set accurate measure. Then do the cut and turn (leaf sprung).

I've been thinking about the flange face angles you mentioned and went to look at my 60 as it's the only one without a lift. The diff flange is different to the Tbox the rear prop setup on lifted trucks wount corespond . So am sure to measure on the knuckle... thinking difficult to do without a strip down.

Has anyone a different method?

 

[Chris]

Yes, you take the prop off measure the angle of one face and then the other face subtract the smaller from the larger and that's the difference. It should be no more than 3 degrees. Simple really.

So on a perfectly flat drive you'd want the flange faces to both be perfectly vertical ie 0 degrees. But it doesn't have to be a flat drive. If you use an electronic angle gauge zero it on the transfer box flange then read the diff flange. It's really no more complicated than that.

This is quite neat.



I know we're talking about castor, but you can't really change castor and pinion angle relative to each other - they are directly related

And this one is very simple too

 

[Iwan]

I got your theory.. good to gain further info. Thanks

So how far over do you think you have over corrected Chris?

 

[Chris]

Mate, I dunno. I need to sit and look at it but I seem to be 5 degrees different. Need to start over when not lying in a puddle but it's pretty wonky looking. Entry and exit need to be the same or very close and they are not. In which direction, errr, I'll get back to you

 

[Iwan]

I'm interested..Enjoy your Christmas mate.. all the best!!

 

[Chris]

Christmas? Eh? I have just taken some time off to play with my Cruiser. Did I miss something?

 

[Geert]

I have dropped my radius arms at the back. I first tried plates in the front, but the arms where touching the steering arm. With lowering the back, this wasn't the case!

I used Man-a-Fre drop brackets. I have OME850J in front. Castor is perfect now!

(not a pic of my truck, but it's the same )

 

[Chris]

Thanks for posting that. I have been mulling all night! It's quite a drop there. I guess that those plates are INSTEAD of front plates. If I put both on, I'd be too far the other way. So I guess I'd ditch the plates at the front. My steering arm actually just clears the radius arms.

 

[Geert]

Yes indeed, it's instead of the front plates. I didn't like the idea the steering arm was so close...
As you can see on my pics, I also dropped the stabilizing bar.

 

[Chris]

Yep, done that already too. My steering arm is about 4mm from the radius arm at it very lowest point. The second you steer that gap increases considerably.

Already on the Man-e-fre site!

 

[Geert]

Maybe I have a set extra... Those were on a truck for a year. PM if anybody is interested.

 

[Chris]

I would certainly be interested as there are no prices showing on the web site. Now mine is a manual which it say they don't fit, but trust me, they will by the time I have finished with them.

Chris

 

[Lorin]

Chris, I have enquired previously about fitting the drop plates to a manual. I have been trying to find a set for a manual for quite some time as I want to return to stock bushings in the front. Apparently to fit to a manual would require quite a bit of work - a couple of US suppliers both suggested it may be easier to fab some up from scratch rather than try and modify the ones for the auto - no idea how accurate this is though (and is no help to me!). I've often wondered why no Ozzy suppliers offer them as many of their 80s are manuals. I'd have thought it was something Superior Engineering would have done.

 

[Iwan]

Interesting development here this morning Chris. Currently struggling at the moment too many brandies beer and baileys last night!

Great to hear from you Geert, for your info on the use of the rear drop brackets. So what size of lift did you use the brackets with?

I'm guessing that the distance of drop matches the size of lift.. does that relationship correspond in your application?

Thanks for the info. . Iwan