In the spirit of keeping busy this week, I decided it was time to make my drop links a bit longer. Why do this? Oh come on, you should all know by now 
If I had money, I'd be dangerous.
OK so here's the assembly from the rear. You can either lengthen the strap or the link itself. The advantage of doing the strap is that when you need new links, you just use the standard ones. If you make longer links - well you have to do this all over again. Or you could find some longer links to start with. The straps are available in longer vers.... why the hell am I telling you all this?
Well nothing ventured, out with the saw and chop diddly chop chop, moments later ...
Here's the decapitated knuckle with my new piece ready to go in. I did contemplate threading it, using a sleeve instead of solid - in fact several fancy solutions including an adjustable version when I came to my senses, cut 3" of steel rod, chamfered the end to form a root, whacked the MIG on STUN and set to.
The reason that the spigot has gone from a hex key to a weird sort of tab on the end is because the little blighter would not come apart and the hex hole rounded out. I welded a tab on so I could grip it. The other side came off OK.
One end glued -
Sort the other end out so it's mostly straight and Bzzzzz
A spray of cheap rattle can later and they were back on.
Job's a good un as we folks say around here. That's all, nothing more to see, move along now...
Chris
If I had money, I'd be dangerous.
OK so here's the assembly from the rear. You can either lengthen the strap or the link itself. The advantage of doing the strap is that when you need new links, you just use the standard ones. If you make longer links - well you have to do this all over again. Or you could find some longer links to start with. The straps are available in longer vers.... why the hell am I telling you all this?
Well nothing ventured, out with the saw and chop diddly chop chop, moments later ...
Here's the decapitated knuckle with my new piece ready to go in. I did contemplate threading it, using a sleeve instead of solid - in fact several fancy solutions including an adjustable version when I came to my senses, cut 3" of steel rod, chamfered the end to form a root, whacked the MIG on STUN and set to.
The reason that the spigot has gone from a hex key to a weird sort of tab on the end is because the little blighter would not come apart and the hex hole rounded out. I welded a tab on so I could grip it. The other side came off OK.
One end glued -
Sort the other end out so it's mostly straight and Bzzzzz
A spray of cheap rattle can later and they were back on.
Job's a good un as we folks say around here. That's all, nothing more to see, move along now...
Chris
