[lights,bulbs]

G

Guest

Guest
Hi John C,
I will have to look at mine tomorrow and see if I have an extra H4
connector, were exactly is it so I can better find it?
+ 0.6% brighter bulbs
Anthony
_____
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On
Behalf Of john byrne
Sent: 14 March 2005 20:58
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: [ELCO] [lights,bulbs]
Hi Roman
Here it is, are you ready, sit tight, pay close attention, do not move, fix
your eyes on this.
You were right,You were right, You were right, Yes you were right about the
bulbs, with there whiter than white, up to 60% more light than the normal
bulb, I now know what the phrase up to 60% means) it means anything from 1%
up to 60% and my 2% or 5% is included in this. Wake up call for me dont
believe the hype. They are not any worse but they are not any brighter, they
may be a little whiter but thats all. At least I now have a lot of spare
bulbs for the next while, and if as you said they dont last too long, I can
replace them as I now have two sets of spares bulbs for all the front
lights. On the same subject, when I was fitting these far brighter bulbs to
the cruiser, on the right side looking in to the engine connected to the out
side wiring light harness is a connector like the H4 but not connected to
any thing, what could this be for. I checked the other side and it seems to
be there as well but goes down and is connected to something like a wire or
cable, I could'nt see cause it is down where the sun dont shine, and I am
only guessing.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HD-T Ireland
Now with amazing white bright lights( NOT )
 
G

Guest

Guest
MessageHi Anthony
I just happen to find it by accident while fitting those extra white, bright, bulbs. If you feel or look down at the outer head light wiring and about three or four inches down if you follow the wiring I have another H4 connection, for what I dont know. I was tempted to connect it to the bulb but then said NOOOOOOOOOOOO I might blow up the whole cruiser. I know some one here will tell me it for . Its amazing what you find when you dont know what you are looking for to start with. I hope its some sort of connection for spots cause I think I may buy some later now that I have to subdue the brightness of the new bulbs, I wish.
Thanks
John C
92HDJ 80 1HD-T Ireland
----- Original Message -----
From: Anthony Graham
To: [Email address removed]
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 9:43 PM
Subject: RE: [ELCO] [lights,bulbs]
Hi John C,
I will have to look at mine tomorrow and see if I have an extra H4 connector, were exactly is it so I can better find it?
+ 0.6% brighter bulbs
Anthony


------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On Behalf Of john byrne
Sent: 14 March 2005 20:58
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: [ELCO] [lights,bulbs]


Hi Roman

Here it is, are you ready, sit tight, pay close attention, do not move, fix your eyes on this.
You were right,You were right, You were right, Yes you were right about the bulbs, with there whiter than white, up to 60% more light than the normal bulb, I now know what the phrase up to 60% means) it means anything from 1% up to 60% and my 2% or 5% is included in this. Wake up call for me dont believe the hype. They are not any worse but they are not any brighter, they may be a little whiter but thats all. At least I now have a lot of spare bulbs for the next while, and if as you said they dont last too long, I can replace them as I now have two sets of spares bulbs for all the front lights. On the same subject, when I was fitting these far brighter bulbs to the cruiser, on the right side looking in to the engine connected to the out side wiring light harness is a connector like the H4 but not connected to any thing, what could this be for. I checked the other side and it seems to be there as well but goes down and is connected to something like a wire or cable, I could'nt see cause it is down where the sun dont shine, and I am only guessing.

John C
92HDJ 80 1HD-T Ireland
Now with amazing white bright lights( NOT )
 
G

Guest

Guest
John, you will probably find that you will get a closer to the 60%
improvement if you upgraded the wiring for the lights.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift, ARB
 
G

Guest

Guest
John, you will probably find that you will get a closer to the 60%
improvement if you upgraded the wiring for the lights.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift, ARB
 
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G

Guest

Guest
Hi John,
Thank you for that. If your are concerned about trying a bulb in the holder
you could try putting the terminals of a meter into the socket and see when
there is a supply. If it corresponded with the H4 supply to your lights
then you could take a feed of this to signal the relays for your auxiliary
lamps. The light out put from the standard lights is pathetic especially
from the dip beam; I too have put in 60% brighter bulbs. I did see an
improvement but I would not call it 60% may be 5% or 10% perhaps which
disappointed me as when I have used such bulbs in other vehicles I noticed a
marked improvement and they were not marked as 60%. There is most defiantly
an inadequacy in the supply wiring. I spoke to Christo Slee about a harness
for H4 with an H1 on high but he did not sound interested, I suppose that he
has such a big market in the US that to speculate in a dubious return from a
few enthusiasts here is not good business sense with out some market
research, it must also be difficult for a small operator to diverge. His
products are very good and well designed. I shall make my own harnesses up
and I can also adapt them for my needs. So that makes for two project that
I will have to get around to some time when I have a bit of it, a set of
draws for the back needs to be designed and built and now this harness.
Enlightened Anthony
_____
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On
Behalf Of john byrne
Sent: 14 March 2005 23:09
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] [lights,bulbs]
Hi Anthony
I just happen to find it by accident while fitting those extra white,
bright, bulbs. If you feel or look down at the outer head light wiring and
about three or four inches down if you follow the wiring I have another H4
connection, for what I dont know. I was tempted to connect it to the bulb
but then said NOOOOOOOOOOOO I might blow up the whole cruiser. I know some
one here will tell me it for . Its amazing what you find
when you dont know what you are looking for to start with. I hope its some
sort of connection for spots cause I think I may buy some later now that I
have to subdue the brightness of the new bulbs, I wish.
Thanks
John C
92HDJ 80 1HD-T Ireland
----- Original Message -----
From: Anthony Graham <mailto:[Email address removed]>
To: [Email address removed]
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 9:43 PM
Subject: RE: [ELCO] [lights,bulbs]
Hi John C,
I will have to look at mine tomorrow and see if I have an extra H4
connector, were exactly is it so I can better find it?
+ 0.6% brighter bulbs
Anthony
_____
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On
Behalf Of john byrne
Sent: 14 March 2005 20:58
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: [ELCO] [lights,bulbs]
Hi Roman
Here it is, are you ready, sit tight, pay close attention, do not move, fix
your eyes on this.
You were right,You were right, You were right, Yes you were right about the
bulbs, with there whiter than white, up to 60% more light than the normal
bulb, I now know what the phrase up to 60% means) it means anything from 1%
up to 60% and my 2% or 5% is included in this. Wake up call for me dont
believe the hype. They are not any worse but they are not any brighter, they
may be a little whiter but thats all. At least I now have a lot of spare
bulbs for the next while, and if as you said they dont last too long, I can
replace them as I now have two sets of spares bulbs for all the front
lights. On the same subject, when I was fitting these far brighter bulbs to
the cruiser, on the right side looking in to the engine connected to the out
side wiring light harness is a connector like the H4 but not connected to
any thing, what could this be for. I checked the other side and it seems to
be there as well but goes down and is connected to something like a wire or
cable, I could'nt see cause it is down where the sun dont shine, and I am
only guessing.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HD-T Ireland
Now with amazing white bright lights( NOT )
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi John,
Thank you for that. If your are concerned about trying a bulb in the holder
you could try putting the terminals of a meter into the socket and see when
there is a supply. If it corresponded with the H4 supply to your lights
then you could take a feed of this to signal the relays for your auxiliary
lamps. The light out put from the standard lights is pathetic especially
from the dip beam; I too have put in 60% brighter bulbs. I did see an
improvement but I would not call it 60% may be 5% or 10% perhaps which
disappointed me as when I have used such bulbs in other vehicles I noticed a
marked improvement and they were not marked as 60%. There is most defiantly
an inadequacy in the supply wiring. I spoke to Christo Slee about a harness
for H4 with an H1 on high but he did not sound interested, I suppose that he
has such a big market in the US that to speculate in a dubious return from a
few enthusiasts here is not good business sense with out some market
research, it must also be difficult for a small operator to diverge. His
products are very good and well designed. I shall make my own harnesses up
and I can also adapt them for my needs. So that makes for two project that
I will have to get around to some time when I have a bit of it, a set of
draws for the back needs to be designed and built and now this harness.
Enlightened Anthony
_____
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On
Behalf Of john byrne
Sent: 14 March 2005 23:09
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] [lights,bulbs]
Hi Anthony
I just happen to find it by accident while fitting those extra white,
bright, bulbs. If you feel or look down at the outer head light wiring and
about three or four inches down if you follow the wiring I have another H4
connection, for what I dont know. I was tempted to connect it to the bulb
but then said NOOOOOOOOOOOO I might blow up the whole cruiser. I know some
one here will tell me it for . Its amazing what you find
when you dont know what you are looking for to start with. I hope its some
sort of connection for spots cause I think I may buy some later now that I
have to subdue the brightness of the new bulbs, I wish.
Thanks
John C
92HDJ 80 1HD-T Ireland
----- Original Message -----
From: Anthony Graham <mailto:[Email address removed]>
To: [Email address removed]
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 9:43 PM
Subject: RE: [ELCO] [lights,bulbs]
Hi John C,
I will have to look at mine tomorrow and see if I have an extra H4
connector, were exactly is it so I can better find it?
+ 0.6% brighter bulbs
Anthony
_____
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On
Behalf Of john byrne
Sent: 14 March 2005 20:58
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: [ELCO] [lights,bulbs]
Hi Roman
Here it is, are you ready, sit tight, pay close attention, do not move, fix
your eyes on this.
You were right,You were right, You were right, Yes you were right about the
bulbs, with there whiter than white, up to 60% more light than the normal
bulb, I now know what the phrase up to 60% means) it means anything from 1%
up to 60% and my 2% or 5% is included in this. Wake up call for me dont
believe the hype. They are not any worse but they are not any brighter, they
may be a little whiter but thats all. At least I now have a lot of spare
bulbs for the next while, and if as you said they dont last too long, I can
replace them as I now have two sets of spares bulbs for all the front
lights. On the same subject, when I was fitting these far brighter bulbs to
the cruiser, on the right side looking in to the engine connected to the out
side wiring light harness is a connector like the H4 but not connected to
any thing, what could this be for. I checked the other side and it seems to
be there as well but goes down and is connected to something like a wire or
cable, I could'nt see cause it is down where the sun dont shine, and I am
only guessing.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HD-T Ireland
Now with amazing white bright lights( NOT )
 
G

Guest

Guest
Glad I'm not the only mug who spent a chunk of money on worthless bulbs!

Regarding the connectors - do your inner pair of headlights work? If not check that these are not the connectors to those, as Toyota use the same H4 socket base to an extension/converter unit, but with only two of the terminals used. Those inner H1 bulbs are a pig to replace; when I got mine both inner bulbs were blown, and clearly the previous owner either couldn't, or couldn't be bothered to, replace them.

Christopher Bell
Here it is, are you ready, sit tight, pay close attention, do not move, fix your eyes on this.
You were right,You were right, You were right, Yes you were right about the bulbs, with there whiter than white, up to 60% more light than the normal bulb, I now know what the phrase up to 60% means) it means anything from 1% up to 60% and my 2% or 5% is included in this. Wake up call for me dont believe the hype. They are not any worse but they are not any brighter, they may be a little whiter but thats all. At least I now have a lot of spare bulbs for the next while, and if as you said they dont last too long, I can replace them as I now have two sets of spares bulbs for all the front lights. On the same subject, when I was fitting these far brighter bulbs to the cruiser, on the right side looking in to the engine connected to the out side wiring light harness is a connector like the H4 but not connected to any thing, what could this be for. I checked the other side and it seems to be there as well but goes down and is connected to something like a wire or cable, I could'nt see cause it is down where the sun dont shine, and I am only guessing.

John C
92HDJ 80 1HD-T Ireland
Now with amazing white bright lights( NOT )
 
G

Guest

Guest
Message
Hi christopher
I had no problem replacing the inner bulbs, it only took a minute or so, it is a bit fiddley with the batteries in the way ant the clips. My inner ones do work and always have, there the ones that really make the difference on the dark country roads at night. The inner connectors are different than the H4 connectors, the inner ones have a connector just to fit the bottom of the H1 bulb which only has one terminal at the base compared to the three at the base of the H4.
On the subject of the bulbs and the wiring. Yes its a question, what is meant by upgrading the wiring, is it using thicker wiring or a different type of wiring which loses less power on its way to the bulb.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HD-T Ireland
 
G

Guest

Guest
John,
The wiring that Toyota used in the 80 is too thin a grade and hence offers a
high resistance so if you remember from your school days E=IR. Basically
putting higher wattages into the lamps the more inefficient they become Slee
makes a wiring harness to overcome his but is only designed for there lamps
which are dedicated high and low, H1 for the low beam and H1 for the high
beam. The harnesses are very good value and can be modified but I intend to
make up my own .As far as lighting is concerned this is probably the best
initial conversion to make.
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/harness_main.htm
Anthony
_____
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On
Behalf Of john byrne
Sent: 15 March 2005 10:35
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] [lights,bulbs]
Hi christopher
I had no problem replacing the inner bulbs, it only took a minute or so, it
is a bit fiddley with the batteries in the way ant the clips. My inner ones
do work and always have, there the ones that really make the difference on
the dark country roads at night. The inner connectors are different than the
H4 connectors, the inner ones have a connector just to fit the bottom of
the H1 bulb which only has one terminal at the base compared to the three at
the base of the H4.
On the subject of the bulbs and the wiring. Yes its a question, what is
meant by upgrading the wiring, is it using thicker wiring or a different
type of wiring which loses less power on its way to the bulb.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HD-T Ireland
 
G

Guest

Guest
Seems odd Toyota would get it that wrong - sure it's not just dirty
contacts?
Has anyone actually measured the resistance?
Mine are pretty bright as standard. Have to say better than any other
car I've had.
Ian.
Anthony Graham wrote:
> John,
>
> The wiring that Toyota used in the 80 is too thin a grade and hence
> offers a high resistance so if you remember from your school days
> E=IR. Basically putting higher wattages into the lamps the more
> inefficient they become Slee makes a wiring harness to overcome his
> but is only designed for there lamps which are dedicated high and low,
> H1 for the low beam and H1 for the high beam. The harnesses are very
> good value and can be modified but I intend to make up my own .As far
> as lighting is concerned this is probably the best initial conversion
> to make.
>
> http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/harness_main.htm
>
> Anthony
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* [Email address removed]
> [mailto:[Email address removed]] *On Behalf Of *john byrne
> *Sent:* 15 March 2005 10:35
> *To:* [Email address removed]
> *Subject:* Re: [ELCO] [lights,bulbs]
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi christopher
>
>
>
> I had no problem replacing the inner bulbs, it only took a minute
> or so, it is a bit fiddley with the batteries in the way ant the
> clips. My inner ones do work and always have, there the ones that
> really make the difference on the dark country roads at night. The
> inner connectors are different than the H4 connectors, the inner
> ones have a connector just to fit the bottom of the H1 bulb which
> only has one terminal at the base compared to the three at the
> base of the H4.
>
>
>
> On the subject of the bulbs and the wiring. Yes its a question,
> what is meant by upgrading the wiring, is it using thicker wiring
> or a different type of wiring which loses less power on its way
> to the bulb.
>
>
>
>
>
> John C
>
> 92HDJ 80 1HD-T Ireland
>
 
G

Guest

Guest
Message
Hi Anthony
I have fitted the reversing spots to the cruiser but have not connected them as I will leave it in to the Auto Electrician to make sure it is done correctly. I am going out soon and on my way back will drop in to him and ask about up grading the front wiring and see if he will do it when I am leaving the cruiser in to get the reverse spots done.
Thanks
JohnC 92HDJ 80 1HD-T Ireland
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi all,
I wouldn't really bother with the harness business. How much light
internsity can you gain by increasing voltage to the bulbs by a few
percent. Going from 12V to 13V it's only 8% increase and extra
current delivered to the bulb will be a mere 0.4A. Can you really
notice the difference? If you want brighter lights, go for additional
lamps with 100W bulbs, like Lightforce. Installing new harness for the
lamps will be a job similar to replacing the OEM harness and I
guarantee the diference will be dramaitc.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
 
G

Guest

Guest
Ian,
I have not personally measured the voltage drop but it has been well
documented in the US were the voltage drop was reported to be significant.
You only have to look at the wiring to see it is rather on the thin side. It
is not a question of Toyota getting it wrong but a question of production
cost and a general apathy in the past by manufacturers regarding lighting.
World wide 80 owners have reported a disappointment in the lighting
performance and it is not just me or John C. I think that the low beam is
particularly poor in terms of definition spread and illumination. There are
IHD bulb conversions available but I think that they are not legal and would
cause a problem to oncoming drivers because of the before mentioned lack of
definition.
Anthony
_____
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On
Behalf Of Ian Packer
Sent: 15 March 2005 10:54
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] [lights,bulbs]
Seems odd Toyota would get it that wrong - sure it's not just dirty
contacts?
Has anyone actually measured the resistance?
Mine are pretty bright as standard. Have to say better than any other car
I've had.
Ian.
Anthony Graham wrote:
John,
The wiring that Toyota used in the 80 is too thin a grade and hence offers a
high resistance so if you remember from your school days E=IR. Basically
putting higher wattages into the lamps the more inefficient they become Slee
makes a wiring harness to overcome his but is only designed for there lamps
which are dedicated high and low, H1 for the low beam and H1 for the high
beam. The harnesses are very good value and can be modified but I intend to
make up my own .As far as lighting is concerned this is probably the best
initial conversion to make.
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/harness_main.htm
Anthony
_____
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On
Behalf Of john byrne
Sent: 15 March 2005 10:35
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] [lights,bulbs]
Hi christopher
I had no problem replacing the inner bulbs, it only took a minute or so, it
is a bit fiddley with the batteries in the way ant the clips. My inner ones
do work and always have, there the ones that really make the difference on
the dark country roads at night. The inner connectors are different than the
H4 connectors, the inner ones have a connector just to fit the bottom of
the H1 bulb which only has one terminal at the base compared to the three at
the base of the H4.
On the subject of the bulbs and the wiring. Yes its a question, what is
meant by upgrading the wiring, is it using thicker wiring or a different
type of wiring which loses less power on its way to the bulb.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HD-T Ireland
 
G

Guest

Guest
John,
May I make a suggestion concerning the reversing light legality that we
talked about previously, connect the spots to the reversing circuit via a
relay but put an additional switch in so that they only com on when you want
and you may avoid unnecessary attention from the Guards.
Anthony
_____
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On
Behalf Of john byrne
Sent: 15 March 2005 11:12
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] [lights,bulbs]
Hi Anthony
I have fitted the reversing spots to the cruiser but have not connected them
as I will leave it in to the Auto Electrician to make sure it is done
correctly. I am going out soon and on my way back will drop in to him and
ask about up grading the front wiring and see if he will do it when I am
leaving the cruiser in to get the reverse spots done.
Thanks
JohnC 92HDJ 80 1HD-T Ireland
 
G

Guest

Guest
Roman,
Not only is the increase in brightness worth while rectifying the hi
resistance I believe that I have read else were that the increase in
brightness is more than linier against a raise in voltage and that Halogen
bulbs are more prone to failure when operated outside there design
perimeters. I agree that additional lighting may be a good way to go.
Anthony
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On
Behalf Of Roman
Sent: 15 March 2005 11:15
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] [lights,bulbs]
Hi all,
I wouldn't really bother with the harness business. How much light
internsity can you gain by increasing voltage to the bulbs by a few
percent. Going from 12V to 13V it's only 8% increase and extra
current delivered to the bulb will be a mere 0.4A. Can you really
notice the difference? If you want brighter lights, go for additional
lamps with 100W bulbs, like Lightforce. Installing new harness for the
lamps will be a job similar to replacing the OEM harness and I
guarantee the diference will be dramaitc.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
 
G

Guest

Guest
------_=_NextPart_002_01C52956.ABAE4513
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi christopher

I had no problem replacing the inner bulbs, it only took a minute or so, it is a bit fiddley with the batteries in the way ant the clips. My inner ones do work and always have, there the ones that really make the difference on the dark country roads at night. The inner connectors are different than the H4 connectors, the inner ones have a connector just to fit the bottom of the H1 bulb which only has one terminal at the base compared to the three at the base of the H4.
They obviously do it differently on the later model (mine's 1996) - maybe they added the adaptor later.

On the subject of the bulbs and the wiring. Yes its a question, what is meant by upgrading the wiring, is it using thicker wiring or a different type of wiring which loses less power on its way to the bulb.
Both . Toyota have put in relief relays for the headlights (in the fusebox at the front left of the engine compartment) to relieve the current on the dashboard switch and wiring, but they still manage to lose a lot of volts by hook or by crook.

What I have done is:
* Use the existing sockets that attach to the bulbs to provide power for separate relays.
* In fact you only need the H4 bulb socket on each side, as this provides common, dipped and main.
* Thus I have two relays on each side: one for dipped beam and one for main.
* The relays only draw a fraction of an amp each, so the existing headlight wiring runs them easily.
* The "power" leads (+ve) to the relays have been been taken from battery +ve terminal (RHS), and starter changeover switch (LHS)
* I have put a separate 40amp in-line fuse in each lead, and used heavy duty cable.
* Then the +ve power goes one side of each relay, and the switched side goes (heavy duty wiring again) to new headlight socket bases.
* -ve (heavy cable again) goes from chassis earth on each side - there is a convenient bolt there for the purpose - to bulb socket base.
This way the current supply to the lights is as direct as possible, giving a minimal voltage drop.

A safety note:
* Power each side separately through a separate fuse. Using a single common fuse for everything leaves you in total darkness if it blows....
* Don't attach any wiring to the front LHS battery. This swaps to 24v during starting.
* Be consistent with your wiring colours, ideally red or brown for +ve, black for -ve.
I used ordinary 3 core 5amp mains cable for the "old headlight socket to relay" wiring: using yellow/green (earth) for common, blue for dipped and brown for main. On the heavy current side I used (separate) brown for main, blue for dipped and black for earth.

I found that H4 headlight base units have the same dimensions as ordinary car relays, so I scavenged a couple, ripped out their innards, soldered the cable to their terminals, and these plugged directly into the old sockets. Note that this (coil) side of the relays is not attached to chassis earth, so it doesn't matter whether Toyota decided to switch +ve or -ve sides.

I took the +ve feed for the LHS assembly from the terminal on top of the starter changeover relay simply because that is attached directly to +ve on the RHS battery, and saved me stringing a cable across the front above the radiator somewhere. Simply trace the heavy-duty cable back to the +ve terminal on the RHS battery, and you have the correct terminal on the relay.

I made two units, one for each side. I bought a length of kitchen sink drainpipe (99p for 2m), bashed it into a squarish cross-section by hammering a piece of wood into it and heating it, and used roughly a 5" length of this to hold the relays. I blocked off one end with silicone sealant, pushed the relays in with the wires coming out of the other end, then wrapped liberally with silage tape (wide masking tape) to water-proof it.

When sizing fuses and relays I allowed a factor of at least two. So the load on main beam might be 130w + 100w =3D 230w each side, or about 17amps at 13.5volts, so I used 40 amp relays and fuses. In a similar vein all spade terminals, connectors etc want to be heavy duty.

The end product is attached via those plastic ties to the cable ducts running down each side next to the headlights. So I didn't drill any holes or cut any Toyota wiring.

Here is a very quick & dirty wiring diagram

Hope this helps

Christopher Bell
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<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi christopher</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><FONT face=3DArial>I had no problem replacing the inner
bulbs, it only took a minute or so, it is a bit fiddley with the batteries
in the way ant the clips. My inner ones do work and always have, there
the ones that really make the difference on the dark country roads at night.
The inner connectors are different than the H4 connectors, the inner ones
have a  connector just to fit the bottom of the H1 bulb which only has
one terminal at the base compared to the three at the base of the H4.<FONT
color=3D#0000ff><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005> </SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><FONT face=3DArial><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005>They obviously do it differently on the later model
(mine's 1996) - maybe they added the adaptor
later. </SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><FONT face=3DArial>On the subject of the bulbs and the
wiring. Yes its a question, what is meant by upgrading the wiring, is it
using thicker wiring or a different  type of wiring which loses less
power on its way to the bulb.<FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005> </SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><FONT face=3DArial><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005>Both </SPAN></FONT><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005>.  Toyota have put in relief relays for the
headlights (in the fusebox at the front left of the engine compartment) to
relieve the current on the dashboard switch and wiring, but they still manage to
lose a lot of volts by hook or by crook.</SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><FONT face=3DArial><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005></SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><FONT face=3DArial><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005>What I have done is:</SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<UL>
<LI><FONT size=3D2><FONT face=3DArial><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005>Use the existing sockets that attach to the bulbs to
provide power for separate relays. </SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></LI>
<LI><FONT size=3D2><FONT face=3DArial><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005>In fact you only need the H4 bulb socket on each
side, as this provides common, dipped and
main.</SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></LI>
<LI><FONT size=3D2><FONT face=3DArial><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005>Thus I have two relays on each side: one for dipped
beam and one for main.</SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></LI>
<LI><FONT size=3D2><FONT face=3DArial><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005>The relays only draw a fraction of an amp each, so
the existing headlight wiring runs them
easily.</SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></LI>
<LI><FONT size=3D2><FONT face=3DArial><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005>The "power" leads (+ve) to the relays have been been
taken from battery +ve terminal (RHS), and starter changeover switch
(LHS)</SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></LI>
<LI><FONT size=3D2><FONT face=3DArial><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005>I have put a separate 40amp in-line fuse in each
lead, and used heavy duty cable.</SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></LI>
<LI><FONT size=3D2><FONT face=3DArial><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005>Then the +ve power goes one side of each relay, and
the switched side goes (heavy duty wiring again) to new headlight socket
bases.</SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></LI>
<LI><FONT size=3D2><FONT face=3DArial><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005>-ve (heavy cable again) goes from chassis earth on
each side - there is a convenient bolt there for the purpose - to bulb socket
base.</SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></LI>[/list]
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><FONT face=3DArial><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005>This way the current supply to the lights is as direct
as possible, giving a minimal voltage drop.</SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><FONT face=3DArial><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005></SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D484194409-15032005>A
safety note:</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<UL>
<LI><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005>Power each side separately through a separate
fuse. Using a single common fuse for everything leaves you in total darkness
if it blows....</SPAN></FONT></LI>
<LI><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D484194409-15032005>Don't
attach any wiring to the front LHS battery. This swaps to 24v during
starting.</SPAN></FONT></LI>
<LI><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D484194409-15032005>Be
consistent with your wiring colours, ideally red or brown for +ve, black for
-ve. </SPAN></FONT></LI>[/list]
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D484194409-15032005>I used
ordinary 3 core 5amp mains cable for the "old headlight socket to relay" wiring:
using yellow/green (earth) for common, blue for dipped and brown for main. 
On the heavy current side I used (separate) brown for main, blue for dipped and
black for earth. </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D484194409-15032005>I
found that H4 headlight base units have the same dimensions as ordinary car
relays, so I scavenged a couple, ripped out their innards, soldered the cable to
their terminals, and these plugged directly into the old sockets.  
Note that this (coil) side of the relays is not attached to chassis earth, so it
doesn't matter whether Toyota decided to switch +ve or -ve
sides.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D484194409-15032005>I took
the +ve feed for the LHS assembly from the terminal on top of the starter
changeover relay simply because that is attached directly to +ve on the RHS
battery, and saved me stringing a cable across the front above the radiator
somewhere.  Simply trace the heavy-duty cable back to the +ve terminal on
the RHS battery, and you have the correct terminal on the
relay.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D484194409-15032005>I made
two units, one for each side.  I bought a length of kitchen sink
drainpipe (99p for 2m), bashed it into a squarish cross-section
by hammering a piece of wood into it and heating it, and used roughly a 5"
length of this to hold the relays.  I blocked off one end with silicone
sealant, pushed the relays in with the wires coming out of the other end, then
wrapped liberally with silage tape (wide masking tape) to water-proof it. 
</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D484194409-15032005>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D484194409-15032005>When
sizing fuses and relays I allowed a factor of at least two.  So the load on
main beam might be 130w + 100w =3D 230w each side, or about 17amps at 13.5volts,
so I used 40 amp relays and fuses.  In a similar vein all spade terminals,
connectors etc want to be heavy duty.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005></SPAN></FONT> </DIV></SPAN></FONT></DIV><DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D484194409-15032005>The
end product is attached via those plastic ties to the cable ducts running down
each side next to the headlights. So I didn't drill any holes or cut any Toyota
wiring.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D484194409-15032005>Here
is a very quick & dirty wiring diagram</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D484194409-15032005><IMG
align=3Dbaseline alt=3D"" border=3D0 hspace=3D0
src=3D"cid:[email protected]"></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D484194409-15032005>Hope
this helps</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN
class=3D484194409-15032005>Christopher Bell</SPAN></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------_=_NextPart_002_01C52956.ABAE4513--
 
G

Guest

Guest
Anthony,
It's hard to argue with something that has a status of an urban myth,
but for the sake of common sense let's agree that a Halogen bulb is
more prone to failure when operated outside the design perimeters,
which is always overvoltage and never undervoltage. You can't blow a
car bulb by running it at 9V - you just get little light out if it.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 11:43:45 -0000, Anthony Graham
<[Email address removed]> wrote:
 
G

Guest

Guest
FWIW both our 80's (93 & 94) have very good headlight output, standard
bulbs, no wiring upgrade.
Best Regards,
Jon.
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]]
On Behalf Of Roman
Sent: 15 March 2005 12:07
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] [lights,bulbs]
Anthony,
It's hard to argue with something that has a status of an urban myth,
but for the sake of common sense let's agree that a Halogen bulb is
more prone to failure when operated outside the design perimeters,
which is always overvoltage and never undervoltage. You can't blow a
car bulb by running it at 9V - you just get little light out if it.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 11:43:45 -0000, Anthony Graham
<[Email address removed]> wrote:
Halogen
 
G

Guest

Guest
Roman, Anthony, et al
The headlight wiring voltage drop measured on mine was about 2.2v running the standard 55w dipped beam filament only.
Brightness is more or less a function of voltage squared. The difference between 13.7 squared (188) vs 11.5 squared (132) is very significant, and really noticeable. The original lighting setup on mine was crap to the point of dangerous on dipped beam - it was after I nearly crashed it because I couldn't see anything against the oncoming lights on a wet night that I rewired it.
I wouldn't trust the existing wiring to take the extra load of higher wattage bulbs, and the voltage drop in the stock wiring will increase with the greater current draw and negate the advantage of them to some extent. If I lost 2.2v with
Regarding reversing lights - there is a legal limit of 23w for normal lights on the back of a car, and you can get halogen ones rated this high.

Christopher Bell
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi Roman,
It might vary from vehicle to vehicle, but I seem to recall Christopher
noticed a 2.5volt drop on his LC, which is a bit more significant.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift, ARB
 
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