Long distance driving

[spnk]

Lots of great advice in here, guys. So after reading all of this, and doing some extra research, I decided to aim for the KJZ version, either 70 or 71, but 72 could also be an option, although I know it's the cheaper (and even less comfortable) version of the first two. It all depends on the kind of offer I find. My budget was initially limited to a well-kept LJ70, but if I'll find a KJZ for a good price, and in good shape, then I'll definitely go for it. My plan is to get one by October, just a month or so before I start my winter season, so I have some time to play with it, fix it, tune it, and so on.
Although I have to admit I'm very interested in some LJ70s that I've already came across.

And thanks again for recommending the 80 series, but as I've said it before: this car doesn't seem like the right one for me.

 

[goodoldboy]

Lots of great advice in here, guys. So after reading all of this, and doing some extra research, I decided to aim for the KJZ version, either 70 or 71, but 72 could also be an option, although I know it's the cheaper (and even less comfortable) version of the first two. It all depends on the kind of offer I find. My budget was initially limited to a well-kept LJ70, but if I'll find a KJZ for a good price, and in good shape, then I'll definitely go for it. My plan is to get one by October, just a month or so before I start my winter season, so I have some time to play with it, fix it, tune it, and so on.
Although I have to admit I'm very interested in some LJ70s that I've already came across.

And thanks again for recommending the 80 series, but as I've said it before: this car doesn't seem like the right one for me.

good luck with your search , a Coil spring 70 with a 1KZ TE was my first choice but I ended up with a 95 but no regrets.If I'd had more time I would have kept searching....

 

[spnk]

Thanks! I will need that, as it seems that I have to rething my budget..
Just as a reference, what would a good price be for an okey looking KJZ be? 200.000 - 300.000 km mileage, and the year doesn't matter that much.

 

[Ben]

Sorry I'm late to this thread, don't get on here as much anymore.

Sounds like you've decided on a KZJ70 which is definitely the engine to have! Its the engine these should have left the factory with originally!

Not sure on prices over there at the moment but from what I've seen prices are going up all the time now as these cars become rarer (they were always rare, but they are definitely getting harder to find).

In reply to a couple of things.........

Although, again, 2.4 is more appealing as it would be more fuel efficient, especially on long distances.

2.4 is gutless and should never have been fitted to the 70 series! I used to use more fuel when I had a 2lt in mine than I do now I have a 1KZ in it as I no longer have to work the engine so hard to get anywhere!

how does one feel after a long ride on this little guy, in terms of comfort, vibrations, noise isolation, etc. Obviously, all of these can be improved, but still, it's good to know from people who already went through something that I intend to.

I've driven thousands of miles in mine and always get out feeling great! I drove for 36 hours straight once when I was desperate to get home from a trip across the Simpson Desert and although I was exhausted from not sleeping for days I wasnt sore from the car!

Correct me if I am wrong but are there two different 70 series trucks, the 2.5 ish bodies are smaller with a lighter chassis than the 4.2 one, different suspensions as well, I say this because we never got any 70 series in SA with a engine smaller than 4.2 liters and I have not looked at any 70's in the uk but I seem to recall this coming up in one of Ben's threads.

Bodies are the same for the light duty (LJ, RJ, KZJ 70's) as they are for the heavy duty (HJ, HZJ, FJ etc.) and the chassis's are also the same size/construction.

The only difference between the 2 is the light duty 70's were developed to carry people and the heavy duty 70's were developed to carry cargo/heavy loads.

Thats why the heavy duty 70's got leaf springs, the slightly bigger diffs (9" instead of 8") and the inline 6 and later V8, engines.

Where as the light duty 70's all got coil suspension, 8" diffs and inline 4 cylinder engines.

 

[Julian T]

Sorry I'm late to this thread, don't get on here as much anymore.

Bodies are the same for the light duty (LJ, RJ, KZJ 70's) as they are for the heavy duty (HJ, HZJ, FJ etc.) and the chassis's are also the same size/construction.

The only difference between the 2 is the light duty 70's were developed to carry people and the heavy duty 70's were developed to carry cargo/heavy loads.

Thats why the heavy duty 70's got leaf springs, the slightly bigger diffs (9" instead of 8") and the inline 6 and later V8, engines.

Where as the light duty 70's all got coil suspension, 8" diffs and inline 4 cylinder engines.

Thanks for that clarification Ben, I knew there was something and the only short LC I have ever been anywhere near was a 40 series.

 

[Shayne]

I'm not sure where the 70 series Prado fits into the line up , Jap imports maybe , but i think they were mostly KZJ .

I'm just thinking of your search pattern , as enthusiasts we recognize KZJ70 but i imagine few are sold under such a description so your looking for a 3.0l Landcruiser which is a ball ache because it will get more unwanted results than relevant ones .

 

[spnk]

Well, I've already found a few more or less interesting options in France, which are juuuust at the extra-limit of my budget. Now, two of them are hard tops and the third one is an FRP, so this brings out another question:
Is there a big difference between the FRP and the normal hard top? I mean, does it get unstable and noisy in time, and how is the thermal insulation? The latter is quite important, because I'm spending my winter seasons in the north of Finland, where it gets really cold. Like -46 degrees C cold! (lowest I've experienced so far). Obviously it's not like that all the time, and probably I'm not going to drive in such temperatures, but you never know.

 

[Rodger]

A friend has a 73 with a FRP top and there is no insulation between the headlining and the fibreglass. Can't tell you about noise as his truck isn't running (VM engine) and he's been out of the country for the last three years. But I can tell you that if you did have one like it and wanted to take the top off you'd need a lot of friends to help - it looks to be a PITA. IMO a hard top would be better.

Regards,

Rodger

 

[spnk]

I was suspecting the same.
Thanks again, Rodger!

 

[spnk]

Hello again, everyone!
It's been almost two months of daily searches now, and I have finally found something worth considering, and something that I can afford. It's a 1992 LJ70 with a 1KZ-T engine, and from the photos it looks like it's in pretty good shape. Now I know that when you install the 3 litre engine, you also have to do quite a lot of work with the electrics, meaning that I should check it before buying it.
From your own experience and knowledge, is there anything else I should pay particular attention to on a LJ70 with an upgraded engine?

 

[Ben]

Congratulations, sounds like a good find.

Firstly check the engine mounts as they will have had to be done to fit the 1KZ. They might have welded the chassis, so check what the welds are like.

Check what the exhaust is like as that will have needed to be altered.

Check what they have done regarding the radiator and the cowl on the back.

Check what airbox has been fitted, the 2lt original one will be far too small for the 1kz so should have also been changed.

And finally check all the gauges work when the engine is running, particularly oil pressure, but also volts, turbo lights and tacho.

 

[spnk]

Congratulations, sounds like a good find.

Firstly check the engine mounts as they will have had to be done to fit the 1KZ. They might have welded the chassis, so check what the welds are like.

Check what the exhaust is like as that will have needed to be altered.

Check what they have done regarding the radiator and the cowl on the back.

Check what airbox has been fitted, the 2lt original one will be far too small for the 1kz so should have also been changed.

And finally check all the gauges work when the engine is running, particularly oil pressure, but also volts, turbo lights and tacho.

Now that's a great and detailed answer!
Thank you, Ben.