Morning you lot!

[James GrP]

Yep, one of those
Did some of the green lanes around the Devils Punchbowl today, lots of deep water and washed out tracks - this thing just takes everything in its stride. Most of the squeaks have gone now though noticed at certain roughness sound at a particular rev range just before she changes up, almost feels like a wheel baring going but def from the transmission - will have to investigate.

 

[StarCruiser]

Drop the ATF soon or at least dip it to see if it has water in. Sometimes the breathers don’t get reconnected after work has been done. Hopefully you won’t have this problem. There’s also transfer box and two diffs. You could try a few pumps of grease in each UJ until it oozes out each limb. Be careful pumping grease into the spline. It can lock up and put stresses on either end. Worth doing Shayne’s suggestion of removing the grease nipple and driving it around for a few miles over some bumps. You could also get someone to walk beside the truck and listen to see where the sound is coming from. Could be the handbrake shoes in the rear drum (assuming they are like the 80 on the back, disk main, drum handbrake).

 

[James GrP]

Drop the ATF soon or at least dip it to see if it has water in. Sometimes the breathers don’t get reconnected after work has been done. Hopefully you won’t have this problem. There’s also transfer box and two diffs. You could try a few pumps of grease in each UJ until it oozes out each limb. Be careful pumping grease into the spline. It can lock up and put stresses on either end. Worth doing Shayne’s suggestion of removing the grease nipple and driving it around for a few miles over some bumps. You could also get someone to walk beside the truck and listen to see where the sound is coming from. Could be the handbrake shoes in the rear drum (assuming they are like the 80 on the back, disk main, drum handbrake).

Thanks for that, the AFT was tested on Friday, less that 1% water and looked ok apparently but I'll get it replaced.
Transfer box and difs will be worked on next Friday - shes also going in to get the rear torsion bar anchor point beefed up and filters changed all round.
I better get myself a grease gun, not owned one in a while.
Many of the bushings are deteriorating - it was suggested that these can be replaced with polymer bushings - would this be a good call or stick with the rubbers?

 

[GeekOKent]

OE rubber..

 

[James GrP]

OE rubber it is!
LC is in the garage again today, wielders doing a little work on the sils on the passenger side as well as the step, and the last bit that needs doing is the anchor point of the rear torsion bar as one side of its bolt hole is badly corroded into quite a large hole.
Shes back in again mid next week for all fluid replacement.

Been out most evenings as we have found a fair amount of green lanes which are drivable, nothing at all challenging apart from some washed out sections and the odd fallen tree, only had to use low range a few times - mainly in heavily rutted and waterlogged parts but nothing has been a problem yet.
So nice to get out into the woods after work for a few hours.
Nearly 400 miles done so far - almost emptied the tank so not too bad on fuel consumption!

 

[frank rabbets]

x2 on the OEM bushes. Most of them, if not all off them, do not have an outer metal surface which is a tight fit in to the arm holes. The poly can turn in the hole and wear it thus ruining the arm. Poly ok for track cars where there is a smooth surface and a car with little suspension travel anyway.

 

[StarCruiser]

x2 on the OEM bushes. Most of them, if not all off them, do not have an outer metal surface which is a tight fit in to the arm holes. The poly can turn in the hole and wear it thus ruining the arm. Poly ok for track cars where there is a smooth surface and a car with little suspension travel anyway.

That’s answered a long held query in the back of my mind Frank. Would have been the way I would have gone so good to hear reasoning. I always thought a 4x4 need to retain the flex.