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My 2004 100 Series

Hey @uHu. Thank you.

I only use Toyota filters.

Power steering did smell burned. Thanks for the note on synthetic Dextron 3.

Prop splines - gave them 2 pumps, then ran over some bumps with the nipples out to check they were not overfilled. No grease came back out. The UJ's needed 3/4 pumps each to break out the old grease.
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I'll be pulling the rear diff lock actuator out this week and seeing if i can get that working. I suspect it has never been used.
So a few pics of the surface rust underneath before wire brushing and then lanoguard application.


and post. dries clear so i can keep an eye on the tin worm.




Also my spare front wheel bearing kit, proshaft uj and front brake pads arrived. and the wind deflectors, now fitted.

Since it is a relatively dry evening - changed the engine oil, and fitted a new toyota oil filter.

Also ran a large tin of liquid moly diesel purge through. have to say the contents of the can were nice and clean the entire time, unlike my 1994 300d estate merc I sold recently.


Diesel purge looks interesting. Is it good on any diesel engines? Mine is 200 series 4.5 diesel and on 68000 miles now.
I wont know if it has any injection issues by driving but if it’s a good maintenance practice, i ll try this summer.
@Raj I only started using it after seeing it mentioned by a mercedes specialist who deals with olders mercedes diesels. it certainly smoothed out the 1994 E300 merc and made the injectors quieter. it is easy enough to do on the 100 series.
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Will check for its use on 200s n give it a try
Fitted the replacement aircon belt, and put a spare on the shelf.
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New car mats arrived - one the drivers one has had some of the plastic bag it arrived in melted on it it when they I presume seam welded the bag shut. Shall see how this wee drama unfolds. UPDATE - new mats on the way. so i can keep the slightly damaged ones for when i green lane.
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Used Techstream to disable up and away on the steering wheel. fuse for same now back in its rightful place.
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2 x Toyota axle breathers
silicone host to extend front and rear axle breathers
2 x replacement front fog lamps
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Second coat of lanugoard on the underside.
Fitted dustcaps to the bleed nipples on the back calipers.
Wanted to remove the rear locker and work out why it is not working. But having already rounded off one of the bolt despite using a hex impact socket and working just with hand tools decided I'll get some new bolts and screws (for the motor / magnet area) so that i can crack on. also thinking it would be a lot easier using the big 4 poster at my mates garage one evening, rather than lying on the drive in the rain.
You have to remember that your skin is waterproof
lol aye that is is, and I am glad it is here in Wales. working on a ramp in the dry is still preferable. other than our motorhome the other cars all fit in the garage so i can work in there. but the 100 is too large. next house will have to have a workshop for me so i can get a ramp and some more things to work with.
Spent 2 hours this morning working through the cheat sheet and video in previous post. very happy with the fronts now, suspension is more supple. the rears pressure is still on the high side, so will either be fitting some spacers or perhaps new springs. not sure which yet.

and typed a bit later...

When i started front left was measuring from edge of arch to centre of wheel 20 inches. right front was 19 1/2 inches
Now both 19 1/2 inches.
The front left bolt to adjust the torsion bar was stuck solid. Took a 24 inch bar with a scaffold pole extension, a jack lightly under the socket to stop it falling off, the front wheel jacked up off the ground and a good bit of sweating and puffing to get it free. I had soaked it last night with acetone and ATF mix. I can now move it with a socket and ratchet with weight on the wheels. , the front wheel off the ground,

Initial pressures front 7.4, and rear 8.2 MPa
Final pressures front 6.5, rear 7.9 MPa.
I have looked at rear springs and they look pretty new with no corrosion so I'll either fit some spring spacers for now or look at some stronger springs. Having the 2 fuel tanks and the rear wheel hanging out over the back and my tools in the back will be the culprits, I reckon. I have also upped the airbags to 10psi to give some support.

The front ride height sensors were initially reading 7mm difference. Now they are sat at 0.6mm apart.

The gradations on the tank from Hi to low are 13 indicating the nitrogen spheres are in good shape.
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I need the owners manual for a 100.

Does anyone have copies (electronic) of the fsm for the 100 series?

I haven't read the whole thread, so if someone else has offered you one then ignore me. If you still need one drop me a pm and I'll set up a drop box or something.