OK, here it is,
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When I took the plastics off, I could see the key lock solonoid.
When I touch it, it was warm.
So was energised all the time.
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I tried to remove the 2 small screws holding it against the back or the ignition barrel.
The lower screw was easy.
the upper screw was not easy, as, the angle of the screw driver was going to chew up the head, as the bottom screw was tight, I was sure the top screw would be just as tight.
So I drilled a 20mm hole in the covered part of the plastic, to the side, so I could get good directional turn on the head of the screw.
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The top screw was tight, but easy to remove with long screw driver.
There is no way it would have come out, without drilling the 20mm hole.
It would definatly have chewed the head.
I now had the solonoid in my hand, and it was stil warm, so still energised.
With this removed, I could take out the key.
So I then put the key in and out a few times, started, etc, no problem.
Each time I turned the key to ignition, the solonoid would fully energise, and push the pin right out.
So what was actually happening in my case, was the solonoid was only part energised, not getting the full voltage.
As I knew this would eventually drain the batteries, I opted for the easy way out for now, I simply snipped on of the 2 wires to the solonoid.
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Then put one of the screws in the top screw hole, and used the lower screw to hold the solonoin in place, but 180 deg out of position.
I will sort this more permanent later.
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I have a steering bar any way, and as a 'also note' there are many cars now made without steering wheel locks.
My Corvette for example does not have steering lock from out of factory.
