New paint schemes on your 80 Series?

[Dave_S]

Hi all

Well, our 80 Series is going in for some rust work soon, and as Jan plans to keep it pretty much until the wheels fall off or she gets buried in it, she's looking to do a custom paint job.... she's looking at two tone battle ship grey and root beer type thing (hard to describe - see this one... on this Cruiser).

Thoughts?

Anyone done anything sexy with theirs....

 

[chapel gate]

Its a good question, and one im still struggling with as mine will be having a full restoration respray in the not too distant future.

 

[karl webster]

Personally dave i like to see the standard colours with the cruisers.

Nice to see your still looking after my car

 

[Josh Tagg]

Matt green in raptor finish. I'm sure I've already seen it done on Here? Maybe not rapror though

 

[Bmonck]

Colour choice is a good question.
But can I also ask, when you say “full restoration Respray” what exactly do you mean? Do you mean panels off and down to the chassis or something simpler? Any ideas of cost of doing that and anyone good you can recommend to do it? Any tips on precise things the work needs to include to make sure it’s not just painting over other bad stuff?
I ask becos I have been thinking of doing the same thing. Many thanks for any suggestions.

 

[Dave_S]

For us we're talking about basically repairing any rust. If its visible (e.g. tailgate) then it will be done to a good finish for painting, for sills and panels hidden behind bumpers, then its mostly a case of cutting out the rot and welding in fresh metal. The guys we're using did my 4x4 Sprinter last year - Jan is popping in for a proper quote shortly...

 

[Chas]

Matt green in raptor finish. I'm sure I've already seen it done on Here? Maybe not rapror though

This one Josh? Had it done on a visit to Clive in Romania.

 

[clivehorridge]

This one Josh? Had it done on a visit to Clive in Romania.

View attachment 140811

Yep, @Chas had all his panels “straightened” and a pucker respray filler primer upawards in the green colour with a matt clearcoat.

Most of the work was in restoring the shape of the panels, and that was every single one of them... including sills, roof and a very badly deformed lower tailgate...

 

[Josh Tagg]

Oh aye that's the one! Best colour for any 4x4. Only problem with mine is I don't think you can paint on top of rust........ maybe one day it'll be ready haha

 

[Shayne]

If it was going to be a ful monty see your face in it shine job i would go for a dark metallic silver but sadly its a colour that can't be appreciated on a computer screen , a fluke of light gives this truck as a vague example

but when reality bites its much easier and therefore cheaper to just have your original paint repaired or if its too late for that military colours never fail .

 

[Chas]

if its too late for that military colours never fail .

It was your original suggestion made up my mind for me Shayne, thanks.

 

[Rodger]

Dave, The paint shown in your first photo (resto rod) is a candy over a metallic base and then lacquered. Beautiful finish but highly unsuitable for off-roading as even minor repairs will cost many £s and very few painters can spray candy well, if at all. Candies and pearls are translucent paint - i.e. light passes through to the base coat and the candy colours the reflected light - so two passes of candy on an area gives a different shade than one pass.
Paint technology has advanced so much over the last few decades and the lacquers are now really tough but the simpliest way to achieve a 'trick' effect is to use manufacturer's stock colours - two tone as you wish - but ensure that the paints are made by the same paint manufacturer (also keep a note of the paint code and batch number). Reds no longer fade the way the used to with UV and lacquers can be cut back numerous times.
However you can achieve a 'candy' look by mixing some pearl in the second coats of lacquer and then clear coating over that but you would need to keep a 'can' of the lacquer mix for future use in the event of some paint repairs being needed. Not every painter knows how to do this. Also bear in mind that some lacquers are applied as one coat and cooked.
Paint effects are not as simple as they first appear.
Regards,
Rodger

 

[Dave_S]

Thanks Rodger - helpful. Jan was actually referring to that kind of root beer colour, not the specific paint finish - I've already read her the riot act about finding a stock colour with a RAL code (or whatever the current equivalent is) so that we can get it repaired later! But your comments are well made.

 

[stumog]

I have been toying with the idea of painting mine as it's flooding as much lacquer as it uses on diesel....

It's not looming good. The snow got underneath it this year and the bonnet looks terroble.

Been looking at the line x and bed liners but don't really want as much texture as they add. However like the idea of the rubberized paint

 

[Iwan]

But can I also ask, when you say “full restoration Respray” what exactly do you mean? Do you mean panels off and down to the chassis or something simpler? Any ideas of cost of doing that and anyone good you can recommend to do it? Any tips on precise things the work needs to include to make sure it’s not just painting over other bad stuff?
I ask becos I have been thinking of doing the same thing. Many thanks for any suggestions.

If you take a real rusty underside truck and you lift off the body and take all the components off the chassis. Then get it shot blasted then possible repairs then get it galvanised.. the same with the axles trailing arms etc. Then to get to the underside of the body shot blast the rust if real bad and weld up if needed or to wire brush in a grinder treat the rust and reseal well. Then the nice part of dropping the body back on (light at the end of the tunnel!)

Then your into paint mode, changing panels for better ones if needed and finishing off. Really not a small exercise to do on a large machine like a rusty 80 but it's of course possible. A dedicated 2 months or more depending on condition looking at it as a paid job. Plus parts... You would need quite deep pockets at the completion of it!

 

[chapel gate]

Colour choice is a good question.
But can I also ask, when you say “full restoration Respray” what exactly do you mean? Do you mean panels off and down to the chassis or something simpler? Any ideas of cost of doing that and anyone good you can recommend to do it? Any tips on precise things the work needs to include to make sure it’s not just painting over other bad stuff?
I ask becos I have been thinking of doing the same thing. Many thanks for any suggestions.

pretty much what iwan said. due to the cost and time I'm doing it in two stages. first the body, I'm stripping the glass out, trim, lights etc. I know it needs two new front and inner wings, I already have a cracking pair of inner wings off gary at 80 breaker. then it will be going to top man for any cutting out and welding and cleaning up of rust. then he will spray the lot. I would like to do the cutting out and welding myself as I enjoy it but I just don't have the time at the moment and its not getting any better... then I put everything back on, this will include all new door seals and window rubbers etc.
then.. I can at some point slowly start my rolling chassis project at my leisure. ill choose the best 80 chassis I have and get it acid dipped then galvanised. ill strip everything and shot blast them, then paint with a two part epoxy paint. complete new bushings, body mounts etc. once this is all done ill lift off the body from the old chassis. do any necessary work to the under carriage of that before plonking it on my shiny new chassis.

then ill have a brew...

my problem is I want to go to Iceland before I do all of this..

 

[Bmonck]

Iwan and Chapel Gate - thanks gents.

 

[Dave_S]

Chapel Gate - definitely go to Iceland before you do this. Been twice now - the Icelandic volcanic dust gets everywhere... locks, dust covers/boots, bearings... then it gets wet and turns into grinding paste... do the restore/repaint AFTER the trip bro...

 

[chapel gate]

Chapel Gate - definitely go to Iceland before you do this. Been twice now - the Icelandic volcanic dust gets everywhere... locks, dust covers/boots, bearings... then it gets wet and turns into grinding paste... do the restore/repaint AFTER the trip bro...

Thats exactly what i was thinking mate, even a bit of a prang wouldnt matter..

 

[Dave2000]

For the moment I am sticking with the simulated tree and bush scuff, with a light dusting of rock nudging effect, this helps bring out the highlights of flaking varnish.

Regards

Dave