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No ignition lights no start 24 volt 1HDFT

AllnT

New Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2011
Messages
12
Hi Guys, Im desperate for a fix here I have been away for 2 weeks car standing outside asked the wife to start it regularly well in 2 weeks she started it once its been over a week of struggling now I have charged and tested batteries they are good I have checked fuse on ignition fuse is good I bought a tester and have tested the voltage converter relay as per Fsm also good, when i test at the fuse box with ignition on I have like .3 volts I feel useless with electrical , Im how the voltage is delivered in terms of order but what could be preventing me getting power at the ignition fuse.. tks Al
 
Welcome.

Where are you located and what model do you have please?

Auto or manual?

Does she turn over at all?

Any previous problems with starting?

What voltage do you have at the batteries?
 
Hi
It is a manual 1HDFT 1997 never a problem before batteries both test at 12.7 volt and that with them not connected to each other. I have no ignition lights at all so I presume no power delivered to starter I have tested voltage at ignition fuse point in fuse box and only .3 voltage. the voltage converter relay is good, so I dont know
 
Eleccy not my strong point wither but lets crack on until someone else chimes in and / or we solve it in the meantime.

do you have good power to other circuits in the truck - lights, interior lights etc?
 
yes i have interior lights door open light even the door open ding ding ding
But no ignition lights and lack of voltage at ignition fuse point
 
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I have checked the ignition fuse as well as the 2 big ones under the hood
thing is when using the tester and turning ignition on I only get very little voltage at the ignition fuse box
 
no imobiliser
Whats upstream from the ignition fuse does the 12 to 24 volt relay kick in after ignition surly if the problem is pre ignition fuse in the stream this should be easier , can the alternater have an effect ?
 
Have you tried jump-starting it yet? although you have some voltage maybe there isn't enough current available-

It could also be the ignition barrel itself. A similar problem happened my old landrover stuck in farmers field one night. It was fine until the jeep stalled and then had a similar problem to you. It just happened and had been no symptom before that.

You could try a 24v supply direct to the starter for test purposes.
 
So what sequence does the power travel in does it go direct to ignition is the fuse before a after the barrel switch
If I jump power direct to the fuse point I suppose if will blow things up as if I get power to ignition then when I start the 24volt will kick in
 
I have tried jumping and it didnt work ,, I just realised that the doors, central locking via key doesnt work so it cant be an ignition issue because the doors work outside of the ignition circut
 
I dont have power to doors surly thats not related to ignition,, today i jumped power from a live in the fuse box to the ignition fuse slot heard a click so turned the key and it started,, doors work(central locking) with engine running
Im not sure what that eliminates but I dont have power to doors or ignition and I have checked the 50 and 60 amp fuse and they are good, hope this info helps
 
:think: :think:

I think check every single fuse in the system. Take off your lower dash and see if you are getting power at the ignition. Maybe try disconnecting both batteries or even swoping them over. From what you say, it doesn't sound like something major but if all the fuses are ok then there is lack of power somewhere. Jump starting won't necessarily solve it if there is a faulty battery.

If that still fails then you should get a wire tracer and buzz out the ignition circuit to see if there are any breaks. check your earth points are still attached to the chassis.

are your batteries wired in series or does it use a transformer to get the 24V?
 
I think fault correctly narrowed search to power for the fuse, as indicated very early on. if you cannot find reason for no power at fuse right now then create new power to the back of the fuse in question.
 
I can test the power into ignition there are so many wires going in there does the power come direct to the ignition
My central locking also doesnt work so no power there either
 
From looking at the diagrams I reckon:

Power to the ign fuse comes from the ign switch which gets it from a fusable link at the battery.
This also appears to be the case with power to the CL system.

JMO, it could be true, it could be complete cobblers.
 
See if these are any help...HDT but am hoping they will be similar.

Wiring_diagram.png



Relays_power_outlet.png



Ignition_switch.png



Fuse_blocks.png
 
Thanks I will study it all again tomorrow. the diagrams help, pitty the dont say where the exact location in truck is
 
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