Not sure I can fix this. Any ideas?

[BobMurphy]

Morris Minors, luv em . .

I spent days stitching a floor into a rusted-out van for a friend's Son. He was at University and couldn't afford to run a car properly.

Then another friend left their old Traveller outside my house because it needed a clutch . . .

I backed it down the sloping drive into the garage and hit the kitchen wall - No Brakes

Must stop this . I've been told off before

Bob.

 

[Chris]

Thanks Bob, meanwhile back on topic

Tried to install my new HDK CVs this evening. Well, couldn't get the hub off. Yes, they just slide off, I know. In the end I used some pullers. This left the rear seal and bearing on the stub axle. I used pullers to get that off too. Once I had the stub off, I could see that the outer CV shaft had in fact broken into THREE pieces!! A 5" outer piece, the main body and about 30mm in the middle. This had clearly jammed inside the stub, distorting it so that the bearing was jammed on. Looks a bit screwed inside the toob. Time to rummage in the spares chest.

Then I tried to split the joint and get the shaft back to go into the new CV. Yes, I know how to split these. But this b****r will not come apart. The spare shaft I have is a bit grooved where the seal sits due to the time it sat idle all those years. The seal disintegrated and the spring sort of stuck to the shaft and marked it. It'll do I guess, but the other one is much better. So fun and games. CV grease spattered everywhere. Have even tried battering it with a lump hammer. Time for brains over brawn I think. It seems the whole thing has had some considerable grief and the snap ring is probably bent out of shape. I'll get it in the end. The CV is an NKN Japan. Which I think were pretty decent weren't they - if not original issue. The HDKs look decent. Carl was telling me that they (Milner) are trying to stock some better quality parts now. Genuine where they can.

Chris

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

You might have to cut the old CV open to get the shaft Chris. I made a puller for this and it works, unfortunately the force is so great it pulls the ends of the splines off rather than the snap ring coming free! Time for a mar-tack when you put it back together

 

[Chris]

Yes, I think so. The Big Dog is standing by. New disc at the ready.

Mar tacking. Yes, hmm, well maybe. (breaks out in a sweat)

Chris

PS Jon, went to Chester Machine today. They were SHUT!!!1 And I bloody range them first!

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

PS Jon, went to Chester Machine today. They were SHUT!!!1 And I bloody range them first!

did you ring the right one, they've got a couple of show rooms now?

 

[Chris]

I'm not that daft. They said that they were at an exhibition, but that this one chappie would be minding the fort. So I went anyway and I figure he'd reckoned it a slow day and had knobbed off early. I was pretty specific about the one I was going to.

Chris

 

[Rob]

So what are you getting Chris? Lathe?

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

sometimes it's the simple things that catch us out Have they got any open days coming up, sometimes a nice deal to be had at those.

 

[Chris]

Jon, I forgot to ask them that but meant to. If they have been at an expo they may have some lovely demo machines.

Rob, not sure yet. We may extend our house and building a proper workshop would be part of that. Big enough to get a cruiser in, small pit, sink, bog, mezz storage etc plus room enough for a proper work bench and welding area. In all of this I'd like a new drill, a miller and a lathe. Chester do some combo machines. Now whilst I am not the biggest fan of combos, I am realistic about what I need one for. So it may be the way to go. If I had room, I'd have a lathe and a miller. Not something quite as posh as Jon's perhaps. But one that good enough.

We'll see. If we don't extend, I can still fit in a small combo if I chuck some stuff out.

C

 

[Chris]

Finally got the CV off. I tried cutting the outer bell, but that didn't really help. It cut easy enough, but wouldn't come apart. So I used a slim disc and cut the cage into bits. This freed the shaft from the main CV but left the medieval war hammer bit on the end of the shaft. You can't get the snap ring off from the other end so I found out. So then I cut the middle section longways, put it under pressure in the vice and battered it with a lump hammer until it shattered. Eventually, after failing to get the remains off, I grabbed the end of the snap ring with mole grips and pulled it out. Still couldn't get the lump off without battering that. The reason why it would not come apart it seems is that something caused the snap ring groove to become burred over so that even without the ring, it would not pass through the middle of the CV joint. The shaft is toast. I'll use the spare and with a small file, I shall tidy the damaged one up as an emergency only spare. The stub axle is utterly shagged. The bearing won't go on, the inside looks like a grenade has gone off inside, the bush is worn out and it generally looks pretty sad. Off to cruiser parts heaven I'm afraid. I think the shaft must have been banged about a fair bit to have damaged it inside the CV. There was no damage visible to the cage and ball bearing but it was a but clunky when I tried to rotate it in the vice.

Good news is the Walbro fuel pump came at last. 2 days to come from the states and 10 to get to my house. Had to pay £34 to get it.

Chris

 

[Scott]

Time for a mar-tack when you put it back together

Mar tacking. Yes, hmm, well maybe. (breaks out in a sweat)

Chris

Mar-tacking is "simples" for a man of your caliber Chris. Both my half shafts are mar-tacked, no problems so far. You just need to make sure that the tack weld on the splines is nicely ground down so that it doesn't damage the oil seal as its fed back into the axle. I know, teaching you to suck eggs........and all that Given the choice, I wouldn't bother with a snap ring again.

 

[Chris]

Mar tacking


OK, looked at the shafts and there are no obvious wear marks on them wrt where they sit in the diff. BUT. I have a complete spare diff. Can I just use this on the bench to accurately measure the engagement necessary in the diff? Or do I need to be clever with a tie wrap on the end of the shaft which will record how far in it goes?

Chris

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

just put a bit of tape round to get a mark of where the splines engage to, a zip tie is probably going to snag on the oil seal? It won't be quite all the way in I don't think using your spare diff will help.

 

[Chris]

Cheers Jon. Looking at the end of the shaft (diff end) there isn't that much splined section anyway. If it were as engaged as I think it should be, I can't see there being much room left to need a tack.

Gathering all the bits for the rebuild. It's been a nightmare. Normally I can strip and build an axle in 15 seconds blindfold. Oh sorry, that was my M16. I mean 15 mins. Clearly.

But just restoring the bits has kept me busy. I am going to go with the stub axle spindle bearing upgrade to needle rollers and bushing cap. Parts on order. I shall put this in a new thread.

Chris

 

[Scott]

Chris - On my half shafts I could see a discolouration to the metal of the splines that indicated how far they had been engaging into the diff. As Jon has suggested, you could use tape to see how far yours locates into the diff, or grease on the spines, marker pen etc, anything that'll give you an indication.

A very quick google search brought up this: http://www.wildyoats.com/vbulletin/show ... php?t=2015 I'm sure there's loads more detailed threads out there.

Jon - With your vast experience of 80 series diffs you may be able to shed some light on these questions?

Does the snap ring keep the drive shaft from sliding too far out of the CV and too far into the diff, or is it just to stop it sliding too far out of the CV?

Is it possible for the drive shaft to slide too far into the diff and cause damage to the diff?

When (as Chris is about to do) you gauge the depth at which to weld the Mar-Tac, do you slide the drive shaft as far as it'll go into the diff, and use that as your indication?

Sent from an IPhone.

 

[callum]

some pics here which might help

http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=10321&hilit=mar+tack

 

[Scott]

Well done Callum, nice one

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

You're just trying to stop the shaft coming too far out of the CV so that you're not putting the power through a reduced area of the splines and also keep the right part of the shaft in the inner axle oil seal. There's a pinion in the diff carrier that would stop the shaft going any further than that. To mark it, slide the shaft in and pop the stub axle on the end so you can push the shaft in to it's normal depth so a snap ring will fit on the end then weld a mm or so further out towards the hub end to give you a bit of tolerance.