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Oil level too high

Will get the oil analysed asap and will work from there.

I haven't touched the fuel pump or the injectors since I got it.

The engine runs very smoothly (apart from low speed low-mid RPM acceleration it jerks quite badly, had got exponentially worse since I removed the front prop so Im leaning towards engine mounts or rear swaybar bushes but please correct if I am wrong) so is it safe to assume that it is not injectors?

The oil seal on the IP, is that part no 22544-64740? If it is that seems like a serious job, IP removal and fitting...

I haven't had a look at the IP (and TBH I'm not entirely sure what you are talking about) but are the bolts on the return line accessible without removing the IP? If not seems like it will be a job for RVS in Swindon if test comes back positive for fuel dilution.
 
Got the oil test bottle but still haven't got round to changing the oil yet, Ill update as soon as I will have the test results.
 
Got the oil test back and it was all good. :? No containments whatsoever. Have I been overfilling? I only manage to get just over 9 litres of oil in every service. Oil was defiantly high and the level was increasing. I am highly confused. I think I need to start monitoring the oil again.
 
Very strange! I put in almost 10l every time I've serviced mine - oil level right in the middle on the dipstick. No oil leaks or measurable oil usage between services.

Can't believe you're overfilling with 9l unless you're not getting complete drainage when you service? Have you ever done an engine flush on your 80? There seem to be lots of advocates against doing one but perhaps there is gunge blocking something up that's preventing all the oil from draining properly when you service, so maybe worth a try?

Playing devil's advocate, how accurate/good is the oil test?

Cheers,
 
I may have done an engine flush when I bought it but I cant remember.
Andrew Prince said:
I put in almost 10l every time I've serviced mine - oil level right in the middle on the dipstick.
With 9l its almost on the max mark on the dipstick. Due to the lack of a service record and the various bits inside the vehicle that suggest that it was used for commercial purposes (plant hire) I suspect that regular oil changes were not carried out. Will an engine flush get rid of gungy oil from the engine?

EDIT: Will call the oil testing place to discuss the test result and accuracy, just to be sure.
 
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I'm sure 2 5l containers was never quite enough for an oil change on my 80 (with a filter change at the same time), something funny going on there. Have you ever measured how much is coming out?
 
No I haven't but it seems sensible to do so.
 
All my oil and filter changes take around 10litres but when I did the BEBs with an overnight drain it took almost 11litres.
24 valve, if that makes any difference :?:
 
Rob said:
With 9l its almost on the max mark on the dipstick. Due to the lack of a service record and the various bits inside the vehicle that suggest that it was used for commercial purposes (plant hire) I suspect that regular oil changes were not carried out. Will an engine flush get rid of gungy oil from the engine?

Just a thought - has the sump pan been dented (if its been used around sites) ???

Bob.
 
No dents in it Bob, its like new. Needs to be quite a substantial dent to affect the oil capacity be that much.
 
ISTR that some manual lists something like 9 or 9.5 litres as the capacity although others list it as 10.5l.

We normally find it is around 10.5l when doing a filter change.

Don't forget that the Toyota filters tend to hold a fair bit of oil in them - with cheaper filters when you stop the engine the oil drains out into the sump raising the level on the dipstick so it would appear that you need less with the cheaper filters.
 
I only use genuine Toyota filters so that will not be an issue for me. I will monitor the oil level over then next 5 or 6k miles and will send it off for analysis again to see if that helps. I spoke to Andy at ALcontrol Labs and he will run the fuel test again, but he did comment that the oil was in excellent condition after 10k miles (although the Si levels suggested that it was used in a dusty/dirty environment like Mongolia) so I am very happy with Fuchs Titan Syn Diesel 10w40.
 
Rob said:
...(although the Si levels suggested that it was used in a dusty/dirty environment like Mongolia)

my Si was also high and I've not been to any dirty places (North London count? :twisted: )
One [far fetched] theory someone had was it was from sealant used on the sump. Not sure if there is a link. My oil was only about 8k old.
 
Apologies for the thread resurrection -Rob, did you ever get to the bottom of this? Diesel leak into the sump or bad measurement?
 
Well the light is still on and a new sensor from Karl is waiting to go in on the overdue oil change. I have pretty much concluded that it was bad measurement.

Do you have any issues Andrew?
 
Nope, not that I'm aware of :?

What prompted me was I saw a similar thread on LCCSA where a guy has problems on a 24v - FWIW his is run exclusively on WVO and has pretty high miles I think.

I was wondering that if you'd actually had a problem and had a(n easy) solution that could be applied as PM, it might not be a bad idea ;)
 
Andrew, if he is running WVO there is a chance that the front seal on the pump has gone causing the WVO to leak into the timing case - he needs to get this checked out ASAP - I seem to recall that the WVO can make quite a bit of mess in the engine.
 
Julian, I believe he replaced the injector return line and washers to rule out fuel leaking into the top end but that appears not to have solved his problem. I think he's getting the IP looked at next - his leak sounded serious, as in draining a litre off every few hundred miles :shock:

Here is the thread on LCCSA for those interested.
 
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