OME spring rates and suggestions

[Rob]

have a look here, it tells you how to install the lift and caster correction http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_ome.htm. basically for the lift unbolt anything that may get overstretched like brake lines and breathers and then unbolt the shocks. be careful with the rear top shock bolts, they can be a PITA to get off if corroded.

 

[Andrew Prince]

You extended your brake lines though, didn't you? I lifted til the brake lines and ABS cables were getting tight and then compressed the springs the rest of the way. Ok, the ABS part might not worry Chris but mine is intact for now and I wanted to keep it that way Don't think I could have got the springs in by lifting more without breaking or stretching something...

EDIT: Just seen Rob's post - would 2nd using the Slee guide, nice explanation and a few "watch-outs". I guess you could disconnect ABS and brake lines But compressing the springs will save you doing this.

 

[Gav Peter]

I think I disconnected just about everything under there!!!

 

[Chris]

Thanks - especially Gav. The thought of donking around made me laugh. I have to say that the mention of spring compressors made me raise my eyebrows. Surely you just drop the axle far enough to get them in. That's all you do on a 90. On the IFS you need compressors as the are coil over strut units. You can change standard 90 springs without any tools at all. All you need is a steep bank and you can pull the spring out.

There seems to be very little rust on my 80 at all. I will have a look of course, but so far all the nuts and bolts have been clean and sharp.

Chris

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Jon,
With the washer mod, do you change the mounts for both of the 2 front bolts (like the CC bush does) or just the very front mount?
Sorry if this is a dumb question - just trying to get my head round what the physical differences between CC bushes and washer modding might be.
I take your point about the reduced thickness of rubber/PU where the sleeve is offset in the bush. This appears to be the only difference between the 2 methods, unless I am missing something

You can do either but I think just doing the front one is the most common. All you're aiming to do is rotate the axle about it's own axis to correct for it rotating about the chassis end of the radius arms.

Of course once the CC is done you should sort out the panhards if you didn't get adjustable ones already

A big jack is all you should need once the shocks are disconnected, spring compressors on 80 series rear springs sounds scary Even at +5" I just used to use the jack on my old 80. Wouldn't have liked using spring compressors on 868's

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

That'll save you two evenings donking about like a moron...

I dunno how you could confuse the front and rear springs

 

[Gav Peter]

Its really very easy when you don't know/realise they're different & don't think to check...   Its pretty simps after that ;-)

 

[Andrew Prince]

Next thing you'll be telling us you mixed the left and right hand springs up and now you're wondering why you have a death wobble driving down the road

 

[Gav Peter]

Uh oh...

 

[Paul_Humphreys]

Just to add to this. I measured mine against a standard 80 series today. I have a 2 1/4" lift on the front and 5" lift on the rear over standard.

I have 850s on the front with a 25mm packer and 868s on the rear. I am "missing" the rear cross member right now as I am adding a rear bumper, see other thread. So the rear will sink a bit.

Paul

 

[Graham]

Paul at West Coast Offroad Centre, Southport.

When I got my Ironman kit off him, he had stocks readily available & looking at other prices (at the time) it was miles cheaper. This due to the fact that Paul imports directly himself & there are no intermediaries like many of the other stockists have to deal with, all putting their slice on top... However, the Aussie dollar is much stronger these days & prices may be suffering.

The quality seems bombproof from my experiences & Paul is a very helpful & knowledgable bloke. This must be the reason that people from Holland are bringing their trucks to him for work to be carried out on them...

Yup, the website could do with a bit of sharpening up but he's worth a 10-15 minute phone call of anyone's time.

Just putting it out there...

.
.
I couldn't agree more.
Price 10/10
Experience 10/10
Good guy 10/10

Paul's your man.

Graham