Panhard rod axle mount

[BobMurphy]

Thinking of getting one of these http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/sb3-gritblast-gun tomorrow to give it a through going over. anyone had any experience???

That looks far too lightweight for this job. Its OK for removing small patches of rust from body panels but for serious work you need something with a lot more capacity.

I used a blasting tub with a 3HP, 100 litre compressor. 11 cubic ft/min is barely adequate and entails a lot of waiting while it re-pressurises.

I also got through over 50 Kilos of 'J-Blast Superfine' blasting grit.

My advice is, if you don't have the equipment to hand, then prepare the axle (block off holes etc) and take it to a local shot-blasters. They have the equipment and it It won't cost much.

Blast everything clean with an airline afterwards

Bob.

 

[Chris Green90]

Just a quick update.

Got the axle out today, all looking in good condition....appart from the obvious. The break seems to be quite clean, looks as though it has been full of cr@p for a while and has corroded through. Whilst its all off I have all of the control arms, panhard rod and ARB, given them 3 coats of hammerite (would have prefered smotherite but had 5l of hammered finish in shed so thats what is getting used). Bushes were only changed about 12 months ago and still look in good condition. Had a job getting the droplinks off the ARB so out came the grinder (Got a replacement pair in the garage).

Got the axle up on the bench.

Its not overly heavy. Red in the face straining

The failed part fits back on nicely. Should be ok for welding but will know for certain when my welding friend gets round tomorrow for a shufty.

Time to find out why my drivers side brake is acting like a stuck pig when reversing. less than 2mm left on the pads so that is somewhere to start. My local motorfactors (who are excellent) are less than a mile away but when your not in the car it sure feels a long way.

Is it worth taking the discs off and checking the shoes whilst I have got everything in bits. Handbrake holds reasonably well, could be better I suppose but then again its a common problem with these.

All set for cleaning up the axle tomorrow. Not sure when the welding will get done but fingers crossed it will all be back under mad max by the weekend

 

[Andrew Prince]

Hard to tell from the pics but has it just rusted away? Or was it broken by force? It's probably worth beefing up the other one as it will have been heavily stressed taking all the load since this one broke.

 

[Chris]

Do remember that you have a diff full of oil when he's welding.

Chris

 

[BobMurphy]

Is it worth taking the discs off and checking the shoes whilst I have got everything in bits. Handbrake holds reasonably well, could be better I suppose but then again its a common problem with these.

The handbrake mechanism is the work of the Devil and has to be checked regularly to keep it sweet.

If you haven't stripped, re-built & adjusted one before there is an excellent post by 'Chris' somewhere. I'll see if I can find it.

That axle looks quite tidy, certainly far less rusty than mine was. Hopefully you won't need an Industrial Grit Blaster to clean it up .

The brake pipes look good too.

Good luck with the welding (and show us the pictures ).

Bob.

 

[Chris]

It's called getting the best from your hand brake IIRC. On here somewhere.

C

 

[BobMurphy]

It's called getting the best from your hand brake IIRC. On here somewhere. C

Yer tiz . .

http://www.landcruiserclub.net/foru...60&hilit=getting+the+best+from+your+handbrake

Bob.

 

[smokyjoe]

Thats strange as when i asked the same question a year ago i was told never heard of this happening before, mabe this is going to be another reacuring problem,
ive now had two colorados that have had the very same problem although my last one also had holes in the spring mounting plates aswell,
might pay to strengthen up the other top mount while your on as mine went straight after i had welded up the first one.

 

[BobMurphy]

Thats strange as when i asked the same question a year ago i was told never heard of this happening before, mabe this is going to be another reaccuring problem.

I was working on Dick Webb's '98 LWB last year and noticed that his top mounts had been welded as well.

I think you're right, its something we need to keep an eye on.

Bob.

 

[Chris Green90]

Sorry guys but my camera has packed up. Probably all the dust in the workshop. Welded up nicely, beefed up the otherside with some plate whilst we were at it. Took it to a local blasters at 12 today, picked it up at 4:30. Looked great. Well worth £15. would have taken me around 3 days with a wire brush and would not have been any where near as good.

Left the old difflock acctuator on to cover the hole for blasting, Got it home and decided on a lick of paint before jumping in the shower. Took the acctuator off and painted away merrily...until...I came to doing the underneeth. Span it round and the diff emptied itself all over the garage floor

So. What oil and how much. Need it quick so may have to buy from halfords or local motor factor. seamed in good nick when it spilled out though so thats good. no bits.

Thanks guys for all your help so far. Knowing you guys are there really gives the Mrs far more confidence in my abilities. without you lot she would have had me send this off to the garage to be done. Can't Imagine the ££££ and would definately not have had the treatment it has had now. So once again. Jon, Chris and especially Bob Thank you very very much.

Oh yeah will "borrow" little bro's camera tomorrow for some more pics before she goes back in.

 

[Chris]

Well in an emergency like this you'd get away with olive oil
I think the back axle is 80W/90 GL-5 hypoid isn't it?

It's nothing special at all. Not made from distilled ogre's tears of the dew from new born fairy wings.

Sounds like a job well jobbed mate. Nice one

Chris

 

[Bounder]

A smidgin under 3 litres usually does my back diff.

 

[Chris Green90]

Is there a level mark or should i just stick 2.8l in. Would it be easiest to fill it through the hole where the acctuator came out of...seen as its off.

 

[Chris]

Stick it in the hole til it runs out. It's no more complicated than that.

C

 

[J66P]

take the level plug out half way up the rear diff pan and with the axle sat at its normal angle just fill with oil till you get a steady drip out

 

[Chris Green90]

Thanks for all the help guys, and sorry for the delay. All sorted now and running well.

Still not sussed out whats hitting when going over bumps. Wonder if it is the rear body mounts. Will have to take a look. or maybe its the bump stop. should be able to see any new marks on the new paint.

 

[fridayman]

Still not sussed out whats hitting when going over bumps. Wonder if it is the rear body mounts. Will have to take a look. or maybe its the bump stop. should be able to see any new marks on the new paint.

Worth checking the rear door - open it about a foot and then see if there is any play in the hinges when you try to lift the end.

 

[Chris Green90]

Thanks Fridayman. Had a crawl underneeth today...Paintwork looks untoughed. Opened the Back door a foot... and boy does it wobble. I think its the pin though. worn an odd shaped hole...will have to have it off to confirm. what was your fix for fridayman???

 

[fridayman]

Thanks Fridayman. Had a crawl underneeth today...Paintwork looks untoughed. Opened the Back door a foot... and boy does it wobble. I think its the pin though. worn an odd shaped hole...will have to have it off to confirm. what was your fix for fridayman???

For exactly the same thing

 

[Chris Green90]

Back on the spanners tomorrow then...