Panhard rod axle mount

[Chris Green90]

Crawled under the car this morning to replace the Diff Lock Actuator and found this.

I guess this solves the problem of why I have been hitting the rear bump stop alot. It must have been through an MOT like this...That cant be right can it.

So the question is what is to be done...Does it mean a new axle, can I buy the mount and get it welded back on...could I just weld some plate down both sides to sure it up???
Its the part circled in gray if that helps at all

Any help or advice is very much appriciated, Need this sorting before Tidworth.

 

[Chris]

Don't think that's the panhard rod mount. That's the top arm. The panhard rod goes side to side. The top and bottom arms are there to stop the axle from spinning round instead of the wheels. The big bottom ones work in forwards and the smaller ones that you are showing work in reverse. Which is why they are smaller. Less umph in reverse.


Chris

 

[Chris]

Looking again, there might be enough meat on there to 'clean to a gleam' and plate it over. As I say they are the top mounts and get less grief than than the bottom ones. Looks like you've been launching boats with it! Or doing racing starts in reverse. It's not the end of the world that's for sure. I wouldn't think that a new axle would be necessary.

We can rebuild it.


Chris

 

[Chris Green90]

As always chris you are right. It is the upper control arm mounting. good to hear you think its fixable. could this be the cause for me hitting the bump stop on that side???

 

[Chris]

Frankly I am surprised that it's drivable. So yes, I wouldn't be looking for any other causes just yet. Not until you get that fixed. Best off the vehicle which is not a massive job by any means. Disconnect prop, the other control arms, leave the wheels on, disconnect brakes and handbrake and ABS, there isn't a great deal more to it. Panhard rod of course.

At worst a new mount could be fabbed up. It'll want a good clean up. A sand or shot blast would be best if you could get it.

Can you weld?


Chris

 

[Chris Green90]

Seems to drive fine, would you advise not driving it until it is sorted. Then again it must have been like it for well over 6 months now. Surely should have failed its MOT.
Can't weld very well but have a close friend that used to build steel containers before he retired and he is very good. Do you mean take the full axle off chris, cos if thats the case I might as well clean it all up and give it a good lick of paint whilst i am at it.

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

You'll make a better job of it if you take it off instead trying to work round it on the truck. As Chris says, clean it up, weld it back on and then add a little plating to make sure it doesn't happen again but no need to go overboard.

 

[Chris]

Yep, what Jon said. Take it off. Clean it all up, give it a lick of something and check for further corrosion on the other mounts. MOT failure for absolute sure. They should be shot for not seeing that. Drive it? Well it's reversing that's controlled most by that but if the other one went....

It's going to put all sorts of load on you prop and all the other gubbins if it moves about a lot. Your call if you need the motor. But it's an MOT failure which means it shouldn't be driven. In law that is. It's a weekends work if your nifty.


Chris

 

[Chris Green90]

Cheers Chris and jon
Thanks for all the advice.

Stopped messing with the diff lock actuator now, flipped the car round in the garage, all that is left is to disconnect the hadbrake then the axle should be out. Can I get it out with the wheels on???

 

[Chris]

Hah, catch 22. Easier to move, but heavier and harder to get from under the body. You need some mini 90 wheels. Or two trolley jacks with wheels really. 90 axle not so heavy. You can drag it.

Chris

 

[BobMurphy]

Using a trolley jack, I dropped my axle onto a 'skate' and then rolled it out from under.

Makes life so much easier.

I was then able to grit-blast the whole thing - after blocking-off all the holes of course.

Three coats of smoothright and the job's a good-un.

I didn't have to weld anything major, but it would have been straightforward if I had.

Bob.

 

[Chris]

Define straight forward. This is the man who takes transfer boxes apart just to see how they work and then puts them back together just 'cos he can.

We are not worthy.

Can't be a difficult repair if there is good metal somewhere at each side of the errrr, break, split, void? Not quite sure what it is.


Chris

 

[Chris Green90]

Hey Guys, pretty much got the axle off now, just the center brake hose. May sound stupid but is there a knack for its removal.

Would you remove the 2 brake pipes and take the bracket off or is there a way remove the hose. Its threaded both ends and the nuts dont seem to spin, So when I loosen it, it twists up.

Whats best practice here anyone.

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

I'm not familiar with how the 90 is set up but if this is a flexible hose from the axle to a chassis cross member and then it goes to a hard line then working at the chassis end first you'll probably be supposed to turn the union on the hard line while you hold the 'nut' on the flexible hose to stop it moving and then when it's undone pull a clip out that holds the flexible hose to the bracket and you'll be able to pull it through and free. If you then wanted to remove it at the axle end it would be able to turn freely.

 

[Chris Green90]

Great Jon Cheers

 

[BobMurphy]

Define straight forward.

I meant . . With the axle out there is plenty of space so fabricated panels can be accurately measured, clamped, pre-heated if necessary, welded and finished-off without setting anything on fire (been there, done that - welding sills to a 1975 Humber Sceptre Estate - it survived).

Also - while its out, replace the brake pipes if that hasn't already been done. The originals are varnished steel and rot away internally. It's not until you try to remove one and it crumbles in your hand that you realise how bad its got. I replaced mine with Cupro-Nickel pipe with Neoprene tubing slipped over it where its anchored.

The thought of doing the work while lying on your back under a 20 gallon diesel tank surrounded by wiring doesn't appeal much I once seam-welded the underside of a canal boat while it was up on railway sleepers (and I was lying in a puddle). Even with 'Vodex' down-hand rods it was no fun.

If the axle is well-rusted there may be a few issues - such as being able to remove the anti-roll bar clamp brackets (I had to drill and re-tap threads / fit 'Helicoils' when the bolts sheared), and with removing the 8mm bolts that hold things like brake pipes and ABS sensor wiring to the axle.

Its worth persevering though and a large gas torch is a must.

Keep us informed of progress

Bob.

 

[Chris Green90]

Only thing left on the axle is the center brake hose. everything has come off very well. No Sheared bolts, no heat required. It is quite strange really as the full axle looks in very good nick apart from that one part. Very strange.
Thinking of getting one of these http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/sb3-gritblast-gun tomorrow to give it a through going over. anyone had any experience???

 

[J66P]

Looks like quite a drastic failure Chris

Must get under mine at some point and take a look

 

[Chris Green90]

Still plugging your mounts gary, have been meaning to ask did you get anywhere with sliders for a shortie

 

[J66P]

Thanks matey

No I am afraid its come to a complete standstill of late has I have had major work commitments, hopefully coem the end of this week I will get an order and I can relax a bit, especially if its for the expected 2 million quids worth of trucks

I am hopeful I will get things going again shortly