Pre facelift engine rebuild

[Trevor]

I sold the wife's 120 and took in as part exchange a 2001 100 series which had lost its coolant and continued to be driven until it started to tighten up. So the 100 is in good condition underneath and had done 135k miles so I took a punt on it.



Pulled the engine and started to strip it down





















So what did I find? The engine oil was burnt and full of glitter when drained so I knew this was likely to be a bit of a mission.

No1 big end shell had spun and scored the crank journal, all pistons had shed material as the engine tightened up and left shadowing on the bores, rings on 3 pistons stuck in their grooves.

Cam bearings not too bad with only 1 having picked up slightly and cam lobes needing a light stringing to bring it back into order.

Oil pickup strainer full of crud and No 6 main shell rather bruised and stuck fast.













I then found that 1, 2 and 3 conrods had been stretched vertically (big end ovalled) between 1 and 3 thou.

Bores survived and took a fair bit of honing to remove the piston material and a couple of slight scores but are still within spec and don't need boring for oversize pistons.

Head checks out with a straight edge but has been sent out for pressure testing and crack testing along with the crank for a regrind. Assuming head checks out then it'll have new valve guides, original valves lapped in and new stem seals.

Turbo, injectors and torque converter are being sent out for remanufacture.

While stripping out the gears for oil pump etc, I came across a plastic piece that appeared to be part of the idler gear. Couldn't find anything on the parts diagram or Internet so was stumped. That is until I came to cleaning out the oil galleries and the sticking No 6 main shell.

The shell was held in place by plastic in the oil way, got the shell off and had to drill the oil way all the way back to the gallery (7.5mm bit in the 8mm hole).

It looks like the crank angle sensor plastic parts melted off and ran through the galleries in the super hot engine oil before solidifying in situ and creating plastic parts that are not on the Toyota list













Spent a lot of time chasing through the galleries with cleaning brushes to make sure no other blockages were hiding



Now waiting on a full piston/ring/rod set, main shells, big end shells, cam shells, stretch bolts and gaskets etc.

At the end of this, the wife will still end up with a cheap 100 series with essentially a zero mile engine and I'll have had a huge amount of fun in the process.

 

[BobMurphy]

That's the way to do it - no faffing about, just get stuck straight in there. Very impressive .

I'm guessing Simon Holton is a busy man right now .

Can we see 'assembly' pictures when the time comes please ?

And, I'm very envious of your shed .

Bob.

 

[goodoldboy]

Picture 9 , Thor dead blow mallet. Still got mine , bought in 1983.How on earth can someone not notice a total loss of coolant ? good stuff Trevor , looking forward to the rest of this.

 

[Chris]

Cracking post Trevor. Sorry who did you say was doing all this work whilst you take pictures and drink tea?

 

[Trevor]

@BobMurphy I'll try and keep the pics coming. Shed is rented and not mine for much longer unfortunately.

@goodoldboy I love that Thor, goodness knows how the coolant loss wasn't noticed. Previous owner only realised when all the dash lit up and truck conked out.

@Chris workshop pixies, only activated once brew drinking commences.

 

[karl webster]

can you send some pixies to me trev to help me get all my rubbish sorted

 

[BobMurphy]

When you say "I then found that 1, 2 and 3 conrods had been stretched vertically (big end ovalled) between 1 and 3 thou." How did you measure them ??

A bore gauge in the big-end eye, a micrometer across the rod and bearing cap (surely not !) or some other way?

I'm just curious as I have loads of measuring devices (for use with my lathes and mill) but find getting consistent results a challenge .

Bob.

 

[Trevor]

I use an internal micrometer, just looked at my written measurements again, No1 out by 10 thou, 2 6 thou and 3 5 thou. Very noticeable difference with the top to bottom measurements compared to side to side

 

[BobMurphy]

Thanks, that makes sense. I don't have an Internal Micrometer but use 'telescope gauges' and external micrometers. Time to start saving for the 'missing tool'. I can guess what a Mitutoyo Internal Micrometer will cost .

Bob.

 

[Trevor]

Ordered all my bits and while having to wait 8 weeks for them to arrive I carried on cleaning stuff and honed the bores out. I get a call from the local engineering place to say "I've got good and bad news". Good news, all the bits are in, bad news, wrong pistons have been sent. Not wanting to wait another 2 months I agreed on the offer of a free rebore of the block to oversize as he can get oversize pistons next day.











Stringing the crank





Plastigauge and dti checking crank clearances, fit crank and get block onto engine stand.






















Pistons rods and big ends next, photos are a bit all over the place, thanks Photobucket.

























Clean, de coke and rebuild cylinder head



































Head on, paint engine, dress it up ready to go in.

































Dealt with leaking battery corrosion and pulled brake booster to send motor for refurb, Robson & Francis said motor not too bad but I had it done anyway just to be sure.















Torque converter filled and fitted, drop engine in and bolt up converter

























Disabled pump and cranked for oil pressure, then went for it's first start.

Ran up to temp and checked for leaks or problems....all good.

All looking good, still have a few bits to do but should be MOT'd next week and back on the road.





Sat down and added everything up.....

Pistons
Gudgeons
Rings
Rods
Mains
Cam shells
Big ends
Crank grind
Head bolts
Head skim
Gasket set
Injector refurb
Turbo rebuild
Torque converter rebuild
Brake booster motor rebuild
Intake manifold/egr pipework vapour blasted
Radiator
Alternator
Aircon pulley bearings
Timing belt kit
3 x belts
Coolant
Engine oil (mineral)
Oil filters
Trans oil
Top/bottom hoses
Water Pump
Thermostat
Water temp/oil pressure/crank position sensors
Batteries
Paint
Sundries

A little change out of £5800, my labour free.

 

[Gav missin]

Sounds sweet Trev. Have you got any bolts left over?

 

[Trevor]

The opposite, couldn't find a couple and had to order them in.

 

[Gav missin]

Nice one. Done a cracking job there Trev. Very impressive

 

[TonyP]

Damn, how did I miss this thread. Good work Trev, impressive!

 

[uHu]

Very nice documentation. Good job. Me too missed out on this thread.
Only one thing I didn't understand - why is the egr still in place?

 

[Trevor]

I take the view that MOT testers and legislation is only going to get tougher as time goes on, egr deletes etc may make the difference between keeping these trucks on the road or not. How long before people will be buying back the stuff they took off to refit? I will be fitting a decent catch can, although it's a bit of a compromise i can live with that.

 

[GeekOKent]

Sounds sweet!

 

[Rob Cowell]

Wow, very impressive. What does stringing a crank mean? Google only tells me about tennis racquets.

 

[Trevor]

It's a very old school method of micro polishing. Using hessian string you can polish out any minor pick up marks on journals and the theory goes that compared to a machine grind, a hessian polish leaves a minutely "rougher" surface which helps oil adhesion. I was taught this many moons ago.

 

[BobMurphy]

A lovely job, and very satisfying when it runs without problems.

A job that really requires space - that is a great (rented) garage!

I hope it serves you well.

Bob.