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problems in oz

spit

New Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2012
Messages
8
Hi all,
Just got my cruiser back after putting it in an aussie garage to get some oil leaks fixed.
This is the list the mech repaired....
rectify oil leak (rear main seal)....he replaced seal
rectify LHF inner axle seal leak....he replaced seal
replace front sway bar bushes....he replaced bushes
Got it back and took it for a nice run and the the gear box/diff is cooking......I mean it has lifted the carpets from around the gear and 4 wheel drive selectors it got so hot.
Rang hime and got shit about it being an old car ('91) and the box will get a hot......although it was fine unitl he "fixed" it with just a small oil leak.
Any ideas of what he could have f%cked up ?
I aked him about the gear box/diff oil and he said they did not need to change or top it up.
HELP PLEASE GUYS.
Thanks all
Paul
 
Last edited:
Hello

Which model please?

What were road conditions?

Weather etc

if its an auto and the box was not locking up then the slippage in the torque converter will make the box very hot

pull the auto dipstick and check level and smell the oil - if it smells burned CHANGE it.
 
Its a '91 HZJ8OR Wagon 1HZ engine and it's a manual.
It was rather warm and the roads were perfect and I took it very easy and no off roading being a bit worried about the wagon.
The car was fine before it went in for repairs.....I even took it on 1200k trip a month ago and it ran perfectly.
All the problems (very,very hot box and a rubbing noise) have only happened since it came back from the garage.
 
Thats the same model as mine. The box does get a bit warm too.

Which real oil seal was it? Engine, axle etc

Do you have free wheeling hubs? Have you ever used them? Just thinking what might have changed, if you've never used them maybe now the shafts and transfer box are spinning its showing up another fault. Not stuck in 4wd is it?

I know these are simple but just trying to think of some things.
 
don't think it should get hot enough to burn the Mrs hand when she tried to put the expanded carpet back on the tunnel after the heat on the tunnel caused it to lift.
Anyway,I have engaged the hubs before so that's not the problem.
It almost seems like they have drained the oil and not put any back in.......they assured me the yokes were not taken out hence no need to put oil in but who knows what they did.
It was the rear main seal and speedy sleeve if that's any help.
It was fine before it went in......the only thing that has changed is the job they did on it.
Thanks again
paul
 
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To replace the axle oil seal requires the removal of the pinion nut. To do the job properly requires a new crush tube between the bearings. If he just replaced the seal and reused the old tube, the chances are that he has over torqued the setup and the preload on the bearings is way to much. This creates friction and that means heat.

Also check the oil levels.

Roger
 
I had heat build up and noise in the cabin after a bearing was replaced in the transfer box, the garage that did the job had failed to refit the plate that clamps the gear leaver boot to the transmission tunnel under the centre console, on my truck there are only four screws holding the plastic console in place, it's a quick check so might be worth doing, for me the heat was phenomenal.
 
My tip which won't directly answer your question is DON'T use that mechanic again.
 
I agree with the overtightened bearings being the most likely cause. If they have been thus damaged they may growl when running with the correct adjustment. Heat meens wear unfortunately.

Frank
 
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