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Rear axle turret / mount broken off / rusted - options? See pics.

MisterCruiser

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So I was getting ready to clean and paint my cills for the on coming winter when I seen I have a broken rear passenger axle mount :(

You can see the damage in the pics attached, it's broken on 3 sides and is partially broken on the remaining front side. The pic with the red circles is the remaining side starting to break. Am I correct in thinking this broken part is referred to as the mounting "Turret" just so I have the terminology correct to make this discussion easier if we're all talking about the same part. :)

What are my options here:
1 - Is welding this up an option, I can't imagine it being too easy to weld, I can't do that myself but is it even an option to a professional welding person? Is there much to weld to for starters. I'm guessing the axle would need to be removed for said fabrication work at the very least or good a good fabricator do it in situ?

2 - Can this mount / turret be bought as a separate piece and welded in place, does such a piece exist? Could one be made up by a good fabricator / welder person?

3 - Buy a complete 2nd hand rear axle. (risky? Don't know what you're getting regards the rear diff? I don't use the rear diff so would it matter if the rear diff was fecked in the replacement?)

4 - Buy a new genuine Toyota rear axle case from Milner 4X4 and swap my parts over to it. £678 plus delivery to Ireland (how difficult is it to transfer out/in the rear diff from my old to the new case)

If there's any other viable options that I haven't thought of that doesn't involve some petrol and a match I'd really appreciate hearing them :)

I believe this is a major job, I remember looking into replacing the rear drum brake backing plate / splash plate due to their brake show retaining shoe pin holes being worn bigger making the shoes not sit fully against the backing plate resulting in a crap handbrake and it was a major job. Stripping the driveshafts and axle bearings I remember large presses / pullers involved etc,,, the cost of the back plates was extortionate too, something mad like €5/600 a piece I think they were, need to check. I'd probably have to replace the wheel bearings etc when I'm in there,,, so going the Milner new rear case option could be totaling 2/3 grand by the time all the extra parts are factored in?

Also, what happens if this broke off when driving, would the the body drop down on that corner? Obviously, I'm putting it off the road now but just wondering what would happen.
 

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Shayne

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As far as i can see from pics the axle turret still sits where it should , meaning no alignment issues . Good metal above and below the rot so child's play for any welder worth his salt and it ends up stronger than it ever was .
 

Chris

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No, you can't buy that piece as a separate fabrication. As shayne says, it needs cleaning back and welding up with some reinforcement. It can be done in situ. It's not specifically called a turret. It's just a mounting.
 

Higgy

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I remember my old Collie being as bad as that From about the centre of the Truck to the Back bumper..And like the others have said it can be welded, It makes the Job easier if you can remove as much as possible around the Area... I remember using 3mm plate to make the shape back up and welded to existing mount,.. A decent welder can sort that.. Good luck
 

MODVRS

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As everyone else says not a difficult job. I had to weld both of mine up this year along with both chassis rails at the rear. I'm only an occasional hobby welder but managed to get a compliment from the MOT tester on how it looked. Budget an extra £25 for the axle brake pipe kit from Millners and source some P-clips as mine all disintegrated when I moved them for clearance. If you get somebody else to do it make sure they leave a drain hole at the lowest points to let the muck out in future.
 

MODVRS

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There are pictures elsewhere on the forum where the whole tower has disintegrated and been rebuilt.
 

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AndycruiserguyLomas

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3 - Buy a complete 2nd hand rear axle. (risky? Don't know what you're getting regards the rear diff? I don't use the rear diff so would it matter if the rear diff was fecked in the replacement?)

Should that include the word locker? I'm sure you use the rear diff along with the front one.

However if your axle isn't porous I'd go with removing the axle and welding/fabricobble the job on a bench and make a real job of it. While its off any cleaning/rust prevention can be undertaken.
 

MisterCruiser

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Well that's some positive replies, glad to hear it can be repaired. My mate reckons he can fabricate and weld it up in situ from my pics, I have everything around it stripped down now out of the way.
Cheers for the pics posted.

@ MODVRS - which brake line kit from Milners are you suggesting I purchase, can you link me please? Or are you saying I'll probably only need that if removing the axle?
Is it this?

"AndyCruiserGuyLomas
Should that include the word locker? I'm sure you use the rear diff along with the front one.
However if your axle isn't porous I'd go with removing the axle and welding/fabricobble the job on a bench and make a real job of it. While its off any cleaning/rust prevention can be undertaken."

Yeah that should mean diff locker, but I forgot the diff isn't just used when locked, my Actuator hasn't worked since I bought the cruiser 7/8 yrs ago, I don't need it.
My axle isn't porous, I'm not removing it if I don't have to though, as it'll cost a fortune replacing all the parts disturbed in the process, etc,,, no, my plan for now is get it welded up in situ and then get another years test on it and another years use under it's belt and reassess again then.
 

MODVRS

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Yes, that's the set of brake pipes I bought. I had to move the pipes to be able to weld the rear part of the towers. The pipes had corroded under the P-clips and snapped when I moved them. You could be luckier, but if yours are the originals you may have the same problem. I welded mine with the axle on by jacking up on the chassis rails and letting the axle hang down.
 

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Rob Cowell

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What happens if it breaks while driving? Well my SWB 90 made few knocks the morning I set off for the South of France a few years ago. Drove down. Drove round. Had a quick look underneath before coming home and the top arm had snapped in two. Drove home. Fitted a new top arm a couple of weeks later. So I'd say almost nothing will happen if it breaks while driving.
 

BobMurphy

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The top arm prevents the axle rotating forward when you brake, or backwards as you accelerate. Losing one will put a greater strain on the remaining one which increases the risk of it failing as well.

The lower arms will prevent it all going belly-up if both fail and the Panhard Rod will stop the axle moving sideways so the truck can be used with care.

Not a good situation and best repaired ASAP.

Its not too difficult to remove the rear axle (I have done that), then you can be sure its welded properly - and give it a clean-up while its out (I grit-blasted mine).

Bob.
 

keith97

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MC are Milners shipping to Ireland or are you using a NI address? Last few bits I needed for mine I got from North South 4x4. How are your sill patches looking?
 

MisterCruiser

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I think they are still shipping to Ireland, probably just more expensive now. I got some bits delivered from them to my southern work address a good while ago, think it might of been before brexit though, can’t remember. I usually buy off RoughTrax as had experience of Milner parts not being 100% correct and not matching up properly to oem parts.
Yeah I seen North / South forgot about them, never think to check their site.
My cills are holding up well.
 

MisterCruiser

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I have it all cleaned ready for welding, I removed the anti roll bar and the Panard arm to improve access, it would be nice if I could get the spring out of the way. Can anyone tell me, I'm guessing no, but can I remove the spring by using my compressor clamps the way it sits now, I'd hardly get it compressed enough to slip out. Or do you have to lower the axle itself to remove the spring.

I'm contemplating dropping the axle altogether now to make it easier for my mate to weld access wise. It's a biut tight at the spring side when your trying to fit a mig torch and a mask in there. I was hoping not to have to undo brake lines as didn't want to have to bleed them afterwards. It might make sense to try and disconnect the brake line in the centre up over the axle before they split into 2 instead of undoing at each wheel. Can I drop it down much at all without undoing brakes?

Ps: Should I drain the oil from the rear axle diff before welding or is it ok?
 

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Higgy

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Thats a good cleaning up Job..... I would drop the Axle down and remove the Springs so you can get them cleaned up too' and get some good paint on them, Dropping the Axle is not a big Job, I completely removed the rear Axle on my, 80 and put it back on with out any bother really.. Remember the more you can get done Now will save you Jobs in the future........ If it will unbolt, Take it off clean it up, Paint it, Lather it in Copper grease or whatever you Prefer, Pop it back on.. You will be rewarded in a few years time When all the rust returns :lol: .. But joking apart, Its looking good mate...Crack On:thumbup:
 

AndyCook

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Drop axle with a jack under it to remove springs. I also unbolted brake lines support clips (not the brake line connections) to avoid stretching the flexible brake hose. Snapped a few bolts as well in process…. I think I might have used another jack under opposite end of axle to end I was removing spring from which helped too to give space
 

MisterCruiser

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Cheers for the tips! I removed the axle tonight with a mate.

How do I get to the nut on the top of the shock, I can get a 15mm socket on it without the ratchet , seems very fiddly with the ratchet, is there an access grommet from within the interior floor. but left it there for the night. I have new shocks I bought yrs ago when they came up from old Toyota genuine stock being sold off so when the axle is off I might as well fit the new ones.
 

Chris

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If you have a body lift ( which I don't think you do have) you can get to the nut through the wheel arch over the chassis. Failing that, I have seen people mess with the top nut for hours and hours. But there's a really simple, quick and easy solution.

JUST CUT THE THREADED PART OFF. You can get in there with a recip saw or an angle grinder and just cut through it. Knick it good then bend it back and forth til it snaps.
 

Chris

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After the first one I did, I sat there and thought, there has to be an easier way than this. What am I missing. Oh hang on ....
 
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