Replacement CV's

Justin_Elliott

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I've decided to replace my nearside CV joint as its been knocking for a few months - noticably worse having just driven to the Dordogne and back... :shh:

Other than O£M what are my options?

Iezura (Does anyone know if Iezura are still trading? I notice their Ebay shop is empty!)
Milners £88 - Any good?
Longfield/Ashcroft? - Do they have a UK dealer & how do they compare for longevity?

I notice that Lincomb appears to claim quite a few through abuse - does it have a favourite brand?

Cheers, J
 

Lorin

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Hi Justin,

My understanding is that Milners are significantly weaker than OEM but may be more cost effective if you don't ask too much of them off-road. From memory Lincomb has claimed Milners, OEM and Longfields!

After blowing my own CV I did a bit of research. Overall OEM offer the best combination of longevity and strength. Longfields are very strong but have poor longevity. Milners are weak but will likely last pretty well if not taxed too much off-road.

I initially replaced with Milners but have two OEM waiting to go in before settting off across Africa, or earlier if I bust the Milners!
 

Jon Wildsmith

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IMO, Longfield if you're going to abuse it, OEM if you're going to travel far away and if you can't afford either of those then it probably doesn't make much difference which cheap ones you pick.
 

Chris

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Can I ask, what exactly happens to the CV joint? I doubt that mine are OEM but they are perfect at the moment. Do the balls wear? Or does the cage disintegrate? Or what? I have never seen a broken one. How many normal road miles can you expect from a cheapie v a Toymota one?

Chris
 
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Paul_Humphreys

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Try Blue Print CVS. They are ment to be quite and under 1/2 the cost of OEM.

Paul
 

Jon Wildsmith

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Chris said:
Can I ask, what exactly happens to the CV joint? I doubt that mine are OEM but they are perfect at the moment. Do the balls wear? Or does the cage disintegrate? Or what? I have never seen a broken one. How many normal road miles can you expect from a cheapie v a Toymota one?

The cages and bells wear which causes excess play in the joint and it starts clicking under load when turning. You can roughly measure how worn they are by how easily you can make them click so high range pulling away at a junction clicking = well worn vs low range tight turn up a hill clicking = hardly worn at all. Sometimes the cage and or bell shatter and sometimes the shaft snaps but that's got more to do with how you're abusing them than how worn they are ;)
 

Chris

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Thanks Jon. I wonder how much wear under normal driving is due to poor greasing? I know you can't really answer that but wear and lack of grease would seem obvious. So a well maintained joint should go for some long time shouldn't it? When I got mine there was NO grease in them. I don't mean there had been and it had got away, they were CLEAN. Straight off the shelf for the MOT I reckon.

Chris
 

Ryan Thomson

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Thought this might be of interest.

I just read an article in 4wd Toyota Owner magazine about longfeilds and how they are rebuildable. The rebuild kits you can get for them utilises slightly bigger balls, depending on how worn the bell is, to tighten things up inside the CV joint. Can you get rebuild kits like this for OEM CV's?

This could possibly make spending the money on Longfeilds a bit more justifiable.
 

sae70

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Just out of interest what would you have to pay for the different brands of CV mentioned :?: :)
 

Justin_Elliott

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Thanks for the pointers - from what I can so far (having only just pulled the CV and not properly cleaned yet) Jon's description of the wear is absolutely spot on (not that I doubted him mind!) - I'll take some pictures so you can see what it looks like.

I understand that this side previously suffered a axle seal failure ~10,000kms ago. As the wear on the joint was minor it was prepacked. It started making a slight noise when turning right ~2,000kms ago (could only just hear it with the window down.). After a little abuse offroad it became very noticable with the window shut!.

Anyone know the costs off-hand & whether Longfields have a UK dealer?
 

angeloperego

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Hi, I can only suggest original Toyota CV. my LC was 475.000 km with the original ones and today I've changed them, bought from Ian Rubie, very cheap price.
Ciao.
Angelo Perego
 

Justin_Elliott

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Well I'm still gathering prices and working out my options - Whilst I've got a respectable price from Ian - compared to OEM - its far from 'very cheap' - but I guess its all relative to who's looking at the bill... :roll:

I'm at circa 250,000km on a heavily abused truck (with known oil seal failures in the past) - so not surprised that this one needs attention.

My annual mileage in the truck is only ~5,000m (8,000km) so spending more than 10% of the value on the truck seems a little disproportionate....
 

Justin_Elliott

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Ok - anyone help with this query:

Ian Rubie advised me that
Around 93 they made the drive flanges thicker which needed a longer CV. If you have early thin ones it is worth upgrading to the later CVs and flanges

How can I tell if my CV is the early thinner or later thicker variant? Is it a simple measurement of the splines - if so what are the measurements for thick/thin?
 

Jon Wildsmith

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It's as simple as measuring the thickness of the drive flange including the flared part that has the dust cap on the end. I can't give you any numbers though because I don't have a flange to measure :) The newer ones just have a longer splined area to fix a problem with the splines being stripped on the older ones.
 

Ian Rubie

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Here you go, thin and thick flanges.

DSC00100Medium.jpg


DSC00101Medium.jpg


DSC00102Medium.jpg


Ian
 

Jon Wildsmith

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Well there you go, with pictures like that you should be able to tell just by looking and comparing with the pics :)
 

pugwash

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Justin_Elliott said:
Ok - anyone help with this query:

Ian Rubie advised me that
Around 93 they made the drive flanges thicker which needed a longer CV. If you have early thin ones it is worth upgrading to the later CVs and flanges

How can I tell if my CV is the early thinner or later thicker variant? Is it a simple measurement of the splines - if so what are the measurements for thick/thin?

you will have to measure them- i have a 93 with ABS etc and still had the narrower flanges- it was the first job i did on the cruiser and i just couldn't work out why the flanges were loose- all very confusing. Think you can buy them reasonably cheaply from Yota- £34 each iirc
 

Jon Wildsmith

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The change over date may be very late in 93, or even 94, it's some time around then :lol: We had a december 93 (registration date) with thin flanges and a 94 with thick flanges. Both had ABS & the larger / better brakes, VC in transfer box, electronic OD & lockup etc, so the flanges were a separate minor revision.
 

Justin_Elliott

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Thanks to the idiot proof pictures (cheers Ian) - I can confirm I have thin flanges...

I was/am only intending on changing over the one CV - is it worth changing to the thicker drive flange on individual sides...
 

Jon Wildsmith

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The thicker flanges are better so while you're going to the expense of changing the CV you might as well spend a little extra for a new flange as well I think but it's not my money :)
 
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