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Restoration body shop repair

Whilst in the workshop today decided to change over the O ring whilst the vehicle was on the lift.
Simple fix no more oil leaking unnecessarily:thumbup:
IMG_7481.jpeg IMG_7480.jpeg IMG_7483.jpeg
 
Also engine oil change and filter.

Then the hard Job taken upon myself to change the gearbox oil. After draining the sump the work starts by taken the 10mm bolts off only releasing can't access the rear one so the gearbox brace support is next to come off. 4 large 14mm bolts either side then the two 14mm deep socket for the middle section holding onto the gearbox mount.

After this the tedious work of cutting into the gasket sealant begins. Round and round piece by piece with a knife and a scraper along with a hammer. Eventually coming off having to be careful with oil still draining inside. Then the metal filter with 4 10mm bolts easy to take off. Not so easy to avid getting oil on yourself as more oil passes through above the filter housing. Oh well!!

With the pan out once again using a scraper and knife cutting away at the gasket sealant on the pan and then on the gearbox surround itself. One cup of coffee after another made progress and then jet washed clean-out ready for the new sealant gasket on both ends.

The annoying part was whilst a straight forward procedure putting back the sump. One bolt snapped inside and for some unknown reason on bolt failed to tighten so next service with have to contend with these issues just hoping the sump is oil tight for now. :pray:

Upon putting the CI-4/SL 15W40 oil in at 5 litres for now with more later if need be all looking good in start up testing thankfully.

P.s added two extra magnets to the sump repositioned to the centre upon fitting to where the opening mouth of the filter is. Other than the sump draining magnetic bolt there wasn't any others in there. Is this correct guys?

Thanks
IMG_7495.jpeg IMG_7496.jpeg
 
Dervis Garip said:
Also engine oil change and filter.

Then the hard Job taken upon myself to change the gearbox oil. After draining the sump the work starts by taken the 10mm bolts off only releasing can't access the rear one so the gearbox brace support is next to come off. 4 large 14mm bolts either side then the two 14mm deep socket for the middle section holding onto the gearbox mount.

After this the tedious work of cutting into the gasket sealant begins. Round and round piece by piece with a knife and a scraper along with a hammer. Eventually coming off having to be careful with oil still draining inside. Then the metal filter with 4 10mm bolts easy to take off. Not so easy to avid getting oil on yourself as more oil passes through above the filter housing. Oh well!!

With the pan out once again using a scraper and knife cutting away at the gasket sealant on the pan and then on the gearbox surround itself. One cup of coffee after another made progress and then jet washed clean-out ready for the new sealant gasket on both ends.

The annoying part was whilst a straight forward procedure putting back the sump. One bolt snapped inside and for some unknown reason on bolt failed to tighten so next service with have to contend with these issues just hoping the sump is oil tight for now. :pray:

Upon putting the CI-4/SL 15W40 oil in at 5 litres for now with more later if need be all looking good in start up testing thankfully.

P.s added two extra magnets to the sump repositioned to the centre upon fitting to where the opening mouth of the filter is. Other than the sump draining magnetic bolt there wasn't any others in there. Is this correct guys?

Thanks
View attachment 151432 View attachment 151433
Click to expand...
Hi Dervis
have you put engine oil in your auto box . or is it a wrong pic of atf
 
Last edited by a moderator:
TONYCY11 said:
Hi Dervis
have you put engine oil in your auto box . or is it a wrong pic of atf
Click to expand...

No Tony this is ATF oil shown in picture. Engine oil was a different oil same brand and same quality as per my usual service.

This ATF is higher quality than I had before. All credit to the previous one same brand just lower spec for I’ve driven 150,000km and 6 years whilst it still being red and having life in it still.

4CDDBF07-60BF-4DDF-8B78-6E94D0C51C1E.png
 
Dervis Garip said:
No Tony this is ATF oil shown in picture. Engine oil was a different oil same brand and same quality as per my usual service.

This ATF is higher quality than I had before. All credit to the previous one same brand just lower spec for I’ve driven 150,000km and 6 years whilst it still being red and having life in it still.

View attachment 151434
Click to expand...
Hi Dervis
the Eneos 15w 40 is engine oil . I hope you didn't put that in ya auto box .
 
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Dervis Garip said:
Thats transmission oil Tony although they do engine oil too but I now use Kixx for that now. :thumbup:
Click to expand...
I thought Toyota autos use toyota t- 111 or t-1v or toyota ws depending on model I had a 1996 Lexus ls400 years ago and you had to use T-1v , I have to use toyota WS on this LC120 . but I am pretty sure that the Eneos 15-40 in the pic is engine oil .
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Oil grade specs used......

Severe-Duty Diesel Engine Service

CI-4 Severe-Duty Diesel Engine Service The CI-4 performance requirements describe oils for use in those high speed, four-stroke cycle diesel engines designed to meet 2004 exhaust emission standards, to be implemented October 2002. These oils are compounded for use in all applications with diesel fuels ranging in sulfur content up to 0.05% by weight. These oils are especially effective at sustaining engine durability where Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) and other exhaust emission componentry may be used. Optimum protection is provided for control of corrosive wear tendencies, low and high temperature stability, soot handling properties, piston deposit control, valve train wear, oxidative thickening, foaming and viscosity loss due to shear. CI-4 oils are superior in performance to those meeting API CH-4, CG-4 and CF-4 and can effectively lubricate engines calling for those API Service Categories.
 
Dervis Garip said:
Oil grade specs used......

Severe-Duty Diesel Engine Service

CI-4 Severe-Duty Diesel Engine Service The CI-4 performance requirements describe oils for use in those high speed, four-stroke cycle diesel engines designed to meet 2004 exhaust emission standards, to be implemented October 2002. These oils are compounded for use in all applications with diesel fuels ranging in sulfur content up to 0.05% by weight. These oils are especially effective at sustaining engine durability where Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) and other exhaust emission componentry may be used. Optimum protection is provided for control of corrosive wear tendencies, low and high temperature stability, soot handling properties, piston deposit control, valve train wear, oxidative thickening, foaming and viscosity loss due to shear. CI-4 oils are superior in performance to those meeting API CH-4, CG-4 and CF-4 and can effectively lubricate engines calling for those API Service Categories.
Click to expand...
sorry Dervis I got my wires crossed I have been talking about ATF and I thought you put that Eneos 15w40 in your auto transmission instead of ATF , I apologize for the mixup
 
Update.

The 80 went unto the garage again with a leak from the gearbox rear end floor pan. So off it came for the second time. Cleaned and sanded the corners better whilst applying the gasket paste better and around each bolt hole. Also took the opportunity to take the broken bolt out of the gearbox casing wielding on to it.

After a few days all seems good now thankfully.

Also starting the vehicle that day experience all warning lights coming on.....coincidence or what?

Drove home and the next day the turn signals starting playing up.

So in to the auto electricians store. It turned out to be the electronic part inside. Apparently the alternator was still charging but not consistently.

IMG_7523.jpeg IMG_7524.jpeg
 
The next issue Guys was the turn signals not working. This turned out to be the drivers side turn signal wire. Somehow it melted into one from two. A simple fix and back to normal.

Wow .....all electrical wows all at once!! and still not done.

Next was the a blown 25amp fuse on the rear cargo draw battery to the fridge.

Also the drivers side HID kit installed 6+ years ago has been failing recently. Changed the module and still failing took it upon myself that's the best course was to upgrade to LED as more could go wrong over time.

Benefits simpler and hopefully better - time will tell with less electrical parts saving on space around the battery trays.

IMG_7530.jpeg
 
Last thing was to changed the passenger side standby led lights. Flickering on and off playing up changed over to hopefully complete this electrical overhaul.

IMG_7531.jpeg
 
I hate electrickery...

And it’s hard to accept that all your leccy faults occurred purely by coincidence with welding a nut on the broken gearbox stud to remove it.

But as you’ve confirmed (private conversations) you’d disconnected all the earths from the batteries, but did you isolate the alternator? Is it necessary to isolate the alternator when welding?

All these questions have no answer for me as a leccy numbscull... :lol::?

Good to see you getting them all sorted though Dervis. :thumbup:

The big question, did you get the oil leak sorted, my small brain can cope with the mechanics and physics of oil leaks, OK... :lol:
 
clivehorridge said:
I hate electrickery...

And it’s hard to accept that all your leccy faults occurred purely by coincidence with welding a nut on the broken gearbox stud to remove it.

But as you’ve confirmed (private conversations) you’d disconnected all the earths from the batteries, but did you isolate the alternator? Is it necessary to isolate the alternator when welding?

All these questions have no answer for me as a leccy numbscull... :lol::?

Good to see you getting them all sorted though Dervis. :thumbup:

The big question, did you get the oil leak sorted, my small brain can cope with the mechanics and physics of oil leaks, OK... :lol:
Click to expand...

Hi Clive you shouldn't have to disconnect the alternator plug but TBH I suspected a charge issue prior as my 100 amp fridge battery did drain down at one point and also inconsistant charging felt but unknown until now what was causing it. Just somehow all issues hit at once and yet thankfully better to fix it all and get to the bottom of it now.

Thankfully all done for £75 labour and parts so Good value for money lol

Yes oil pan looks sealed thankfully now.

Thanks
 
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