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Shock news - might be looking for a Colorado

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Don't kid yourself.

Gra.

I agree, from what I have heard the D4D will still be the cheaper to run option

I am very lucky with regards to LPG stations I have 2 within 2 miles of where I live (1 of those will shortly be within 1/2 mile when new road opens) and another 3 in another 2 miles, no brainer for me given the difference in drive

Having said this if I had the moolar to spend on another toy it would be the D4D auto every time (if it were a Landcruiser which I don't think it will) , I don't see any real point in manuals these days given the technology they aren't what they used to be, yes it will suck up a little power and a little fuel but then why would you even be looking if you was too worried about that, as Chris said early on you would be looking at a 7 seat MPV if this was the case


long and short I would go for auto :icon-wink:

FWIW I get diesel equivalent of around 35mpg from gas.

does that take in to account the petrol you put in as well ?, also including the cost of flashlube (if fitted)
 
As Gary mentioned, the D4-d plus auto is a pretty good combination.
But there are manual "die-hards" who will in their opinion, never own an auto.
Fair enough, thats why Toyota also make manuals.
However the volume of newer Land Cruisers, say from 2000 year, I would expect a high percentage to be autos.

I think the last of the 95 series D4-d was around July 2002.

They still command good money, for a well looked after low miler.
But is "a low miler" so important? knowing that with service or regular maintenence they can do pretty high miles, not that Chris's prospective purchaes would do much miles anyhow.

Chris, may you even look for an early 120 series ?


Gra.
 
I don't use flash lube so that's not a factor. I've programmed mine to switch to gas after about a mile (based on temperature and warm up times) so the petrol cost is negligible.
 
Im with Chris, late 95 D4D prob in auto would be what I would look for as a daily bus. If I was to modify for off road I would get the V6 in a shortie ...... mmmmmm now theres a thought
 
Auto every time for me, and if its better mpg then its a no brainer.

The rad/atf cooler is an issue more and more, so stick in a new £120 rad and you should be fine.

They are holding their value very well, if anything they seemed to go up a bit last year.

I would like a LC5 but they are out of my price range for a 56/57 plate auto, and not enough difference between the Kzte and D4D to make it worth changing.

Pete
 
I've had a 120 and loved it, but pushing the price boundary there. And I don't want to run into the injector issue either. Not wanting to make too much of that, but mine had it and YOU lot wouldn't listen when I told you it was an issue. I had an early one from new and it was shocking. But a lovely car.

I had an auto collie and could get 28 mpg from that and my 120 used to give me 28 even if driven like I stole it. That's liveable with. So if a D4D auto collie get around that then all's good.

We'll see which way the wind is blowing today.

C
 
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I'm one of those die hard manual drivers, my collie is the first auto I've owned (driven a few other cars) and have to say it's brilliant. For ease of driving it can't be beaten, but if it's going to be used by several people, maybe ask their opinions as well?
 
Okay - I think we're missing the point here and slithering a little off track. I don't care whether it's manual or auto, neither doe the Missus we have both already this is about ECONOMY - plain and simple. In a D4D Colorado which returns the best MPG. That's it.

Having had both manual and auto 1KZ-TE Colorados in the past, the auto did better on fuel, I believe due to the gearing. Counter intuitive I know, but it does seem to be the case. So when they swapped the engine, did this change? The same engine in the 120 and auto used to give me around 28. So most likely it's a more economical power plant.

Chris
 
Hello chris, how's life?

Ive owned both mate, I've had the white manual 1KZTE ( albeit a SWB) and mine which is obviously a LWB D4D.

Fuel economy wise, the 1KZ did around 23 round town and around 26 on a run and mine does around 26 round town and averages around 29 on a run but have had 32.

Ive no idea why people are STILL banging on about the radiator thing as the d4d uses a different radiator! (Go figure?)

Ref manual vs auto, no brainer for me, auto is just easier to drive with no consequences as far as I'm concerned.
 
Cheers Fella. Helpful stuff. Lass next door been round and she's getting abut 24 out of here manual.

People repeat stuff they have heard sometimes with no actual experience of it happening. That's how legends and myths are born. Sometimes valid, sometimes not. If I bought a really old 1st gen Colie, I'd change the rad. But I'm not.

I have had a 1KZ crack - so I know they can. Not saying they all do, but I'm not going thee again.

Missus gone for a drive in it! Ooer. We'll see what she thinks.
 
Sorry for the hijack Chris. ive just checked to see the part numbers on the rads for the 1kzte and the 1kdj and the part number is one digit different i wonder what the difference is and if the later rad will fit on the older set up? do you have any pics of your Rad Tommo as this might be a better option for us.
 
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could be a bit like the lottery, one number can make a whole world of difference
 
Ill take you some pics tomorrow but I've helped change a few rads on 90 1KZ and 1KD engines and basically the dimensions of the radiators are the same but the 1KD has a different core in it from what I understand.

best place to watch is pradopoint as they are a great resource for this stuff.

You could fit a d4d rad to a 1KZ quite easily from what a can see.
 
Cheers Tommo it would be good to find out if the later rad would help the 1kzte. Saying that as long as you replace the rad around the 8/10 year mark then no probs with it anyway.
 
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