My side steps were understandably looking a bit sorry for themselves already so replacing them went to the top of the todo list. The replacements need to work as steps so my family can still get in and out easily as well as fending off rock attacks. The outside of the chassis rails on AHC equipped 100's are a bit cluttered with damping actuators and such so there's only really room for two legs. Even then the actuator stone shields will need to be removed and a couple of pipe clips relocated. As there's only going to be 2 legs per slider I've gone for 100mmx50mm box section with a 5mm wall for the outriggers instead of the much smaller channel I used on the 80. At the chassis they go to a 150x215mm plate in 6mm. The front outrigger has clearance for stiffening pieces to the foot plate but the rear outrigger has an AHC pipe in the way. This shouldn't be too much of a problem as the rear outrigger is much shorter, only 190mm, than the front. The AHC pipe could be cut, have a join fitted and go through a hole in the stiffeners. I'm still deciding if the AHC is staying or going so once that's resolved I'll go back and add the stiffening. The main section of the slider is the same as the 80 series sliders, 100x50mm in 5mm wall with a short tube welded into each end for a jacking point. The stiffeners between the main box section and outriggers is in case the sliders are used as an anchor point for a not quite side ways recovery. There's a bit of thin wall tub runs along the main box section to help make the step and some chequer plate across the top to finish it off.
This is the underside of the drivers side slider:
The outriggers clear the pinch weld on the body by about 10mm to allow space for the body and chassis to flex. The main box section sits 25mm higher and the outrigger ends are capped with short lengths of 50mm equal angle in 6mm cut down to size. This gets the step up as high as it can go and still clear the body and is 16mm higher because of my body lift anyway. Without the body lift there wouldn't be room for the 50mm depth of the outrigger box section and a weaker C section would be needed.
This is them with Hamerite spray paint that I wasn't impressed with. They're in the garage with a coat of brush on hamerite drying now:
The chassis rails are bigger than my old 80 so I can't use the u-bolts I had for that. This time I'm using M10 bolts and some 50x215mm in 6mm straps:
The two with slots cut out of them are to clear the gearbox cross member.
When the paint has dried I'll fit them up and take some more pictures with details of how they clear the AHC gubbins.
I'd estimate they're a similar weight to the 80 series sliders, maybe a tiny bit more, so about 35kg each. That may seem a bit OTT but they may find a 3+ ton truck resting on them
Much better finish with the brush on Hamerite smooth and some patience:
This is where the rear foot plate goes and you can see the pipe that's in the way:
The front is clear but with the size of plate I'm using comes up tight against the gearbox cross member round the back:
Another look at the back with the slider in place:
and the front:
Installed - not in your face, need some dirt on them
Here you can see they sit up a bit from the chassis rails courtesy of the body lift really:
Things I learn't from the 80 sliders that I've worked into this design were: raise them up as much as possible as every little helps, don't bother taking the step all the way to the front as it doesn't get used and just collects dirt, DO take the step back as far as you can because from the back seat there's not much step to aim for otherwise.
You'll see I've also left them about 50mm short of the wheel arch openings each end to allow for if the panels ever need cutting back to clear bigger tyres.
Poser shot:
This is the underside of the drivers side slider:
The outriggers clear the pinch weld on the body by about 10mm to allow space for the body and chassis to flex. The main box section sits 25mm higher and the outrigger ends are capped with short lengths of 50mm equal angle in 6mm cut down to size. This gets the step up as high as it can go and still clear the body and is 16mm higher because of my body lift anyway. Without the body lift there wouldn't be room for the 50mm depth of the outrigger box section and a weaker C section would be needed.
This is them with Hamerite spray paint that I wasn't impressed with. They're in the garage with a coat of brush on hamerite drying now:
The chassis rails are bigger than my old 80 so I can't use the u-bolts I had for that. This time I'm using M10 bolts and some 50x215mm in 6mm straps:
The two with slots cut out of them are to clear the gearbox cross member.
When the paint has dried I'll fit them up and take some more pictures with details of how they clear the AHC gubbins.
I'd estimate they're a similar weight to the 80 series sliders, maybe a tiny bit more, so about 35kg each. That may seem a bit OTT but they may find a 3+ ton truck resting on them
Much better finish with the brush on Hamerite smooth and some patience:
This is where the rear foot plate goes and you can see the pipe that's in the way:
The front is clear but with the size of plate I'm using comes up tight against the gearbox cross member round the back:
Another look at the back with the slider in place:
and the front:
Installed - not in your face, need some dirt on them
Here you can see they sit up a bit from the chassis rails courtesy of the body lift really:
Things I learn't from the 80 sliders that I've worked into this design were: raise them up as much as possible as every little helps, don't bother taking the step all the way to the front as it doesn't get used and just collects dirt, DO take the step back as far as you can because from the back seat there's not much step to aim for otherwise.
You'll see I've also left them about 50mm short of the wheel arch openings each end to allow for if the panels ever need cutting back to clear bigger tyres.
Poser shot: