It's just a water / dust seal not a support. Probably helps keep engine/axle smells out of the cabin as well and only costs a few £ to replace.
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Steering issue
- Thread starter warrenpfo
- Start date
I don't see how that could be the case.
How did you test for play in the various joints? It can take a lot of force to simulate what happens when it's being driven so it can be difficult to detect play sat on the drive poking it with pry bars etc unless something is really badly worn. Some MOT test places have shaker plates on the ramps that are very good for detecting play, might be worth seeing if any of your local test stations have them and will let you put your 80 on for a check?
warrenpfo
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Thanks for the idea Jon I was thinking about using a curb to try and turn the wheels against and see. I felt each joint with the car on the ground and off as well as with a pry bar,
My only other thought was that on adjusting the steering play by turning the screw ontop of the steering box I did notice the steering box was covered in what looked like 5mm of grease. On inspection and because there is no grease in the box or area I concluded that the box must/might have a leak and it's gear box fluid and dirt mixed together rather than grease.
The funny thing is on cleaning the box to adjust the play a few days back there is no sign of and leaks so maybe as you said more force is required.
My only other thought was that on adjusting the steering play by turning the screw ontop of the steering box I did notice the steering box was covered in what looked like 5mm of grease. On inspection and because there is no grease in the box or area I concluded that the box must/might have a leak and it's gear box fluid and dirt mixed together rather than grease.
The funny thing is on cleaning the box to adjust the play a few days back there is no sign of and leaks so maybe as you said more force is required.
Hi Warren, I'm still of the opinion that vague steering or wayward drifting side to side sounds like alignment problems, not so much caster or camber but straight forward toe-in. I don't know the Mr.T recommendations, but most front wheel drive vehicles require static toe-out so that under drive the tendency is to pull parallel.
As THE 80 is an all time 4WD, I wasn't surprised to be advised to set it at 1/2 degree toe-out. Before this, it had 1 degree of toe-in, which made it drift about all over the place, it was horrible. After, it drove just fine.
I don't imagine any of the places you're looking (although it's good to check everything) will turn up the real problem. My money would still be on tracking.
As THE 80 is an all time 4WD, I wasn't surprised to be advised to set it at 1/2 degree toe-out. Before this, it had 1 degree of toe-in, which made it drift about all over the place, it was horrible. After, it drove just fine.
I don't imagine any of the places you're looking (although it's good to check everything) will turn up the real problem. My money would still be on tracking.
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I'll check my alignment tomorrow. I set it at 1/2 * toe out but for some weird reason it may have altered.
warrenpfo
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Well after much heating and hanging off the bar with a pair of stilsons the chap gave up. HE was concerned too much more heat would start to melt the boots on the ends so I said leave it to me and i will return once i have done it.
I cant remember exactly but he said they where about by 0.12 not degrees but he said something else so yes they are not right let alone 1/2degree in. Time to get a ball joint separator and some new ends and get to work.
I cant remember exactly but he said they where about by 0.12 not degrees but he said something else so yes they are not right let alone 1/2degree in. Time to get a ball joint separator and some new ends and get to work.
Didn't he give you a print-out? I would have thought such an advanced country would have 100% laser geometry...
Anyway, if I understood correctly, 1/2 a degree toe-in will give you a very wandering straight line IMO.
New ends won't do any harm, then you'll know something to eliminate from the equation!
The panhard rod has been mentioned and this can be a problem, something I am seeing on older cruisers now is corrosion on the chassis where the panhard rod bush mount is welded.
They start to flex and this can cause some weird steering sensations.
regards
Dave
They start to flex and this can cause some weird steering sensations.
regards
Dave
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Also cracks in the chassis round the steering box on early 80's. I've only read that not seen it.
Nice job Warren, bush mechanic? yes, but necessity is the mother of invention.
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Well here's the thing. The correct measurement is 0 degrees 12 minutes toe IN. +- 12 minutes. In other words parallel or 24 minutes toe in = 24/60 th of 1 degree. That's not far off 1/2 degree toe in max.
Had a job getting one end off but resorted to lying the rod on a flat bed and tapping round and round with a hammer in effect making the tube spring oval and back over a 3 inch length. Then it unscrewed easily. Didn't want to oxy it as the boot would have caught fire. More smoke than a BQ Warren?
Back to taking out my 1/2 degree toe out and going for 24 minutes toe in.
Make sure the slot in the track rod is not overlapped by the clip and also use plenty of grease so you don't get a false impression of it being tightened up.
If it still wanders it's the tyres.
Frank
Had a job getting one end off but resorted to lying the rod on a flat bed and tapping round and round with a hammer in effect making the tube spring oval and back over a 3 inch length. Then it unscrewed easily. Didn't want to oxy it as the boot would have caught fire. More smoke than a BQ Warren?
Back to taking out my 1/2 degree toe out and going for 24 minutes toe in.
Make sure the slot in the track rod is not overlapped by the clip and also use plenty of grease so you don't get a false impression of it being tightened up.
If it still wanders it's the tyres.
Frank
warrenpfo
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Can anyone advise on the below paper attached to the drag linkage ends or steering rod ends?? Is it fill up the boots after installation or is it grease up the shafts I'm a little lost. It does look like a small spring band holds the boots on so it must mean them but could you confirm and is it best done prior to bolting it up or once it's in place??
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If you measure distance between the centre line of the front of the tyres i.e. at their circumference, this must be the same as the rear of the tyres, i.e. parallel or -2mm. At the wheel rims they are going to be parallel or in by about 1.75mm. You can look at the diagram on page SA-4 of RM315E. If you can't measure at the points described I'll post a pic of how to measure it with string (accurate enough for F1 cars up until 1990 ish).
If you can get the front wheels parallel then turn the rear track rod 1/2 turn longer that will be in spec. The track rod ends have opposite threads so you can do this on the car just by loosening the clamps.
When I said it might be the tyres I meant on my car not yours. Done the adjustment in 5 mins but not gone for a test drive.
If you can get the front wheels parallel then turn the rear track rod 1/2 turn longer that will be in spec. The track rod ends have opposite threads so you can do this on the car just by loosening the clamps.
When I said it might be the tyres I meant on my car not yours. Done the adjustment in 5 mins but not gone for a test drive.
