Still looking for H151 gearbox grinding noise

[Dave2000]

Jon, yes mate got that, this broken bearing is midway along the shaft with IIRC third gear? The split bearing is the one that goes into the intermediate plate right? Frank, I am glad you can see what I am getting at (even though I am not sure myself!) If the gear was seized permanently then there would be drive the moment I started the engine as if I had left the lever in gear, but of course this did not happen, I did have neutral and the lever moved through the normal positions but regardless of what position there was (eventually) no drive just the loud grating noise, this led me to think if the gear was partially seized and 'dragging' the synchromesh would be unable to stop the gear spinning and of course trying to drag another gear into play hence the rubber wall feeling?

I am just having a lot of difficulty getting my head around the amount of grinding noise and no drive, I was expecting a load of 'bits and pieces' lying in the bottom of the box but nothing!

Dave modifies signature and signs off to the soundtrack of the twilight zone....doo doo doo doo, doo doo doo doo..........

regards

Dave

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

There's the big chunky plastic cased split bearing that the layshaft runs on in the plate but 5th also runs on split metal case needle bearings that look like most of the other gear bearings except for the case being in two pieces. 5th is about mid way along the shaft and comes off the input end, it is the one up against the shoulder on the shaft. 3rd is the one between the input assembly and 5th. Here you go, the bearing Frank and I are referring to:



If a gear were seized to the shaft you would have drive in neutral and I don't think you could select another gear because the main shaft would be being forced to turn at a different speed by the seized gear. If the seized gear was just stiff rather than fully seized then it would still be very difficult to get into gear but once engaged you'd have drive, possibly with noise from the semi seized gear. To be in gear and have no drive you'd have to have all the dog teeth missing off a gear or hub and plenty of evidence of it. Some of the hubs are a pita to pull but as Frank said the gears themselves should slide on/off so I can't help explain why one had to be pulled off. If the bearing in question was faulty there should be signs of that on the shaft, gear and bearing?

p.s. you might want to be sitting down when you get a price for a set of bearings if asking Toyota

 

[frank rabbets]

Normally the only way you can get no drive is if one of the layshaft bearings collapses and the layshaft is lying in the bottom of the box but the layshaft bearings are OK? From what you've described I can't see why you had no drive. The only time, other than collapsed layshaft, this could happen would be if the dogs were sheared off a gearwheel. There would be tons of metal in the bottom of the box and only affect one gear. But if you had no drive in all gears looks like it is the transfer box. But you stiil have an unrelated problem withthat seized gearwheel.

Jon's right if the gear wheel was seized all the time you'd have drive in neutral and difficulty in getting a second gear but if it was free then seized with another gear engaged then the vehicle would stop suddenly. More likely to happen at low speed if it's a very knackered bearing problem.



A picture of that seized wheel interior, it's bearing and it's position on the shaft would be interesting.

Frank

 

[Dave2000]

Sorry guys, hubs and gears have swapped places in my head, a lot going on up there at the moment. The 5th gear synchro was the one that was difficult to remove, when it eventually 'gave' the gear came away with it so I pulled the lot in one go. Later in the day I noticed the what I thought was the broken needle bearing, I really need to get new glasses! It is in fact as per your picture Jon so my cock up mate, thanks for putting me straight. So back to the drawing board, I will try and get some more time down the garage as I want the last of the gears off just so I can say everything has been checked. I know some of the prices look scary and I have considered over and over a S/H unit however, over here they are like hens teeth, I could get one from the UK but cannot get anyone who will put a warranty on a unit, if they do and it turns out bad then it has to be shipped back with the attendant costs, so I need to find someone who definitely knows they have a good unit. Taking out and replacing is a doddle so that is not an issue, I can offer the coin but no takers! So, back to my original problem, Andy thinks I might be barking up the wrong tree and I think he could be right, I knew it would be one or the other but went with the box knowing they are prone to failure or at least weak on synchros/bearing etc. The transfer box seems to escape problems so that was second choice, I will get back to all as and when I can get some more time down the garage, thanks again for the help thus far.

regards

Dave

 

[Dave2000]

Ta Da!! Well finally got some time in the garage and 'Andycruiserguy' gets the gold star!

The transfer box is toast, I can see teeth missing from a couple of gears, I am having trouble pulling one of the output flanges which could well be where the gears are jammed/welded together? Anyway, the price of the rebuild kits for the gearbox is ludicrous, add in a couple of synchros and the cost just gets silly so I need a gearbox AND a T/box. Any spare ones just lying around at the side of the road?

EDIT: Does the later box from the 24 valve motor bolt in?

regards

Dave