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SWR problems

BIG clean GREEN

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2010
Messages
949
Garage
After JW kindly knocked me a new base up for my sirio, I bought myself a new roof bar mount, now I'm having difficulties trying to SWR it in.
This is the meter I'm using :-

SWRMidland25.jpg


The method I've used is to set the channel to UK 20, then transmit, move the dial to Set in the red line on the FWD switch, then turn the switch to REF, having done this previously the needle would move down to the lower end of the scale between 1 & 1.5, however now it doesn't move from the set line, I've tried altering the twig length but still no change with the readings.

When I re-connected the aerial I was able to receive and transmit to someone around 7 miles away, so that's good enough for me but I don't want to ferk anything up if it's not set correctly.

Does it matter which side of the meter that the patch lead goes in, there are no markings to indicate which way round it should be inserted, I've tried both sides with no change in readings :think:

Any help appreciated please :pray:
 
First off, do you have a dummy load? As this will rule out you Sirio.

Next off have a read of this,

Paul

How to use an SWR meter
This is a simple and easy to use bit of kit. Getting the SWR right is very important so if anything is unclear or you have any questions, please feel free to get in touch by email or phone - our advice is always free.


What is an SWR meter
When setting up your aerial installation, you must use a special test meter called an SWR meter to make sure that the ground connection is good, and the aerial is the right length.
What the SWR meter readings tell you is how well matched the length of the aerial is compared to the wavelength you are transmitting on.
All SWR measurements should be taken with the vehicle in an open area, at least 20’ from buildings and never inside a garage or carport. The vehicles’ doors should also be closed.
There are meters that only measure SWR, and ones that measure SWR and output power too, but we will deal with the SWR functions here and all the meters measure SWR in the same way. On the meter you will have a calibration control knob, and a switch with two settings. One may be marked FWD, DIR, or CAL and the other marked REF. These stand for forward power (to the aerial) and reflected power (back from the aerial).
The reading actually shows you how much power is being reflected back from the aerial - obviously the less reflected back, the better.


How to take SWR readings
Firstly, go to channel 20 on the UK band.
Put the switch to FWD and while transmitting, turn the knob so that the needle swings over to the far right of the scale. You will probably see the word “SET” or a red mark at the end of the scale - make the needle line up with this.
Once this is done, and while still transmitting, switch over to REF and the needle should drop down to give you a nice low reading.
If the needle hardly moves when you switch over or does not come out of the red portion of the scale - STOP transmitting - you have a problem, probably with the groundplane connection.
A reading of below 1.5 is ideal, a reading of under 2 is ok, but a reading in the red part of the SWR meters’ scale means that the SWR is high enough to possibly damage the set.
What you need to do next is to take readings on channels 1 and 40 and make a note of them. (You will need to switch back over to FWD and fine tune the calibration on each of these channels.)
If your readings are LOWER on channel 1 than they are on 40, then your aerial needs to be shortened. (In most cases, this is what you are likely to find.)
If your readings are LOWER on channel 40 than they are on 1, then your aerial needs to be lengthened (by loosening the grub screw and pulling some of the whip out of the coil).
A meter with a built in antenna matcher may help you reduce the readings if you can get it out of the red to start with - but you’ll need to make sure you don’t accidentally adjust the controls after you have set it up. Mark the settings and lock them by sticking tape over them (or similar) to prevent them moving.


Tuning for 80 channel sets
For 80 channel sets, the principle is the same as for a 40 channel set, but - you should use channel 20 on the EU band instead of channel 1 UK band, and channel 20 of the UK band instead of channel 40. If possible try to get these to read the same.
The EU band is lower in frequency than the UK band - the lower the frequency, the longer its wavelength (which translates to length of aeria)l. This means that a better reading on the EU band means the aerial is too long. The same is true if the SWR is better on the UK band than on the EU band - the aerial is too short. However, if the readings are below 2.0 on all channels, there shouldn’t be much need for finer adjustment.
Incidentally, there is an unused gap the size of 20 channels between the two bands. The SWR reading will tell you whether you need to lengthen or shorten the whip. For 40 channel rigs - use the same principle on channels 1 & 40.
IN SUMMARY :
If the reading is lower on EU band , or channel 01, shorten the aerial, (slide the whip in or cut it) If the reading is lower on UK band, or channel 40, lengthen the aerial (slide the whip out)


Should you keep the SWR meter inline?
In the literature that comes with your CB licence, it states that SWR meters should only be used to check your antenna system, and then removed to minimise any chance of interference. I feel that this is more relevant to base stations causing TV interference than it is to people in vehicles, so I recommend having one inline permanently - if you have the space for it.
The advantage with this is that if anything in the aerial system becomes damaged, or your ground connection goes bad, you will know about it much quicker than you would if you had to wait until you got home to check your SWR. This could prevent you damaging your set.
The metal case of the basic SWR meter we sell can be easily removed by undoing 2 screws. This can then be drilled through and mounted flush on a surface, and the meter put back together again - an ideal way of saving space, and securing it inside or outside a cubby box for example.
 
That's the same method I've been using to set my rig up !

By Dummy load I assume you mean that the aerial isn't connected correctly ? I shall check all connections tomorrow and get the joins soldered up ! since posting I pulled the rig out of the din and the power lead came out of the live feed that it was connected to behind the radio system, meaning it was loose in thw first case, so that will be reconnected too !
 
No not quite, a dummy load replaces the anttena. This lets you use the cb for testing without damageing it. You can put it is at any joints in the coax to try to find where the problem it. That is if there is a problem. It could just be that the SWR is that low it does not show.

Paul
 
check for shorts on the coax and open circuit.
BIG clean GREEN said:
.. get the joins soldered up !
Is this on the coax? They should always be soldered to the connectors (unless obvious screw) and no dodgy joining of he coax either
 
BIG clean GREEN said:
Does it matter which side of the meter that the patch lead goes in, there are no markings to indicate which way round it should be inserted, I've tried both sides with no change in readings :think:
Most designs probably don't care the sockets are wired together directly as a pass through and the readings are parasitic so wouldn't be directional. Now someone will prove me wrong :lol:

Sounds like a crap connection Nick. You mention soldering some joins, you know you can't treat coax like regular power cable and just splice the ends of two cables together any old how if you want it to work properly :)
 
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TBH I don't believe there's any issues with open circuits Etc. however I know for sure I haven't soldered the ends up so I shall do that this afternoon.

Does it not seem odd though that I can pick such a good signal up in it's currrent state ?
 
BIG clean GREEN said:
Does it not seem odd though that I can pick such a good signal up in it's currrent state ?
Not really, if it's a poor connection, the RF can get across it but it's not happy. As Paul mentioned a dummy load is a useful tool for eliminating an antenna fault or if the cable run is in multiple pieces you can test each section.
 
Problems i had........ (although i was getting very high SWR)

Poor ground and what turned out to be a faulty SWR meter!
 
Nick I am in today - mostly (popping to Nancy's and get my hair cut) pop round if you like and we'll look it over. I have a spare aerial or two that we can try to see if it goes up or down. Spare leads and a meter.

C
 
I'm just having sandwich Chris and I'll set to checking it over, if it still shows high readings I'll call down !
 
OK nipping up to hospital and into town so not in til later on.


C
 
The ends have now been soldered up and electrics re-connected ( the aerial cable is one continous piece ) however the readings are still the same and in the red, I've also tried it with my mag mount and I'm getting the same results so the next step is to try Chris' SWR as I think mine maybe at fault :think:
 
Anytime mate. Sorry I missed you I was visiting me old Mum. And chatting to that lass in Nancys. She gave me what I needed though. Foaarr!

Chris
 
Have you tried wiggling the switch a bit, maybe it's stuck in the FWD position on the contacts.
 
Jon, after all these years, I think that is the most non-technical solution you've ever suggested. Annoyingly simple and possibly a cause. At least you didn't say 'Try hitting it' I'd have worried then!


Chris
 
Should have suggested it from reading Nick's 1st post where he quite clearly says the needle goes back to the same position which is a bit of a coincidence if a none meter fault is causing it.
 
So I had a good wiggle this morning and nothing changed. It's occured to me that the new mount I bought recently is now clamped to the roof rails, the previous mounts I've had have either been mounted to the gutter or roll cage and in both cases would have been earthed ! Is this what I need to do, earth the mount ? and if so can I simply connect the earth cable to the mount and follow the coax back to a decent earthing position inside the motor ?
 
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