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Tight Steering on 120

T

TonyP

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So I have had this problem on and off for about 4 months but it has got much worse recently. Basically steering is quite tight when turning either left or right. Takes some effort.

When it first started I changed the power steering fluid as is was definitely past it's best but this made no difference. It then went for it's MOT which it failed due to a binding caliper, so I changed both front's and this seemed to fix the steering issue, so I thought good thing.

Sadly last two weeks it has got much worse. So today I took another look and I noticed that the OS track rod end was leaking from the boot, so I have disconnected both left and right track rod ends, but when turning the steering it still feels a both lumpy/notchy.

I will change the track rod ends, as these seem relatively cheep. I have found some from RoughTrax which are a Delphi Lockheed brand Link, does anyone know if these are any good?

Some pics, cause we all like pics :dance:
20190113_123801.jpg
20190113_125517.jpg
20190113_123741.jpg


I do fear that the steering rack has a problem, but I really don't want to be removing that.

I welcome any suggestions as to what may be the problem as I am good and hitting things with hammers, but hopeless at diagnosing any suspension or steering issues.

For reference, my 120 is 13 years old with 120k miles on it.
 
Tony, you know that RT sell just the boots for TRE's. If the joint is good and just needs re-grease, you can stick with the OEM and new rubber. I think the TREs would have to be seized solid to make steering stiff.
 
Thanks Chris, the joins move freely so I actually think they are fine. Even the boots are not damaged, so I could get away with a clean and regrease. Is it just general grease or cv grease that I should use?
 
TonyP said:
So I have had this problem on and off for about 4 months but it has got much worse recently. Basically steering is quite tight when turning either left or right. Takes some effort.

When it first started I changed the power steering fluid as is was definitely past it's best but this made no difference. It then went for it's MOT which it failed due to a binding caliper, so I changed both front's and this seemed to fix the steering issue, so I thought good thing.

Sadly last two weeks it has got much worse. So today I took another look and I noticed that the OS track rod end was leaking from the boot, so I have disconnected both left and right track rod ends, but when turning the steering it still feels a both lumpy/notchy.

I will change the track rod ends, as these seem relatively cheep. I have found some from RoughTrax which are a Delphi Lockheed brand Link, does anyone know if these are any good?

Some pics, cause we all like pics :dance:
View attachment 153270 View attachment 153271 View attachment 153272

I do fear that the steering rack has a problem, but I really don't want to be removing that.

I welcome any suggestions as to what may be the problem as I am good and hitting things with hammers, but hopeless at diagnosing any suspension or steering issues.

For reference, my 120 is 13 years old with 120k miles on it.
Click to expand...
I think you will find that it is the lower joint on the steering column starting to seize. It can be relieved temporarily by spraying the joint u/j with wd40 (or similar) and working into the joint. If the steering goes stiff then loosens off like a 3d bit as you turn it, this virtually guarantees that this is the problem. My LC4 is suffering the same malady.
 
Seems unlikely it might have moved Tony but when I did a body lift on my 90 the steering was very stiff until I adjusted the slider splines that connect the steering wheel to the rack , just above the rack .
 
So after cleaning and re-greasing the TRE's I took it for a spin and felt much better, until I drover over ones of those speed bumps the type that you normally straddle unless there is a car parked next to one. So left wheel went over the bump and the steering stiffened up again.

BriComp said:
I think you will find that it is the lower joint on the steering column starting to seize. It can be relieved temporarily by spraying the joint u/j with wd40 (or similar) and working into the joint. If the steering goes stiff then loosens off like a 3d bit as you turn it, this virtually guarantees that this is the problem. My LC4 is suffering the same malady.
Click to expand...

Next thing to investigate. When both TRE were off rotating the wheel hubs full turn both ways this felt smooth and normal, so I don't think it's suspension related, or the top and bottom joints.

Shayne said:
Seems unlikely it might have moved Tony but when I did a body lift on my 90 the steering was very stiff until I adjusted the slider splines that connect the steering wheel to the rack , just above the rack .
Click to expand...
Last time I looked at this I did try to undo the sliding joint, but that was damn tight so don't think this has slipped in any way...
 
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TonyP said:
So after cleaning and re-greasing the TRE's I took it for a spin and felt much better, until I drover over ones of those speed bumps the type that you normally straddle unless there is a car parked next to one. So left wheel went over the bump and the steering stiffened up again.



Next thing to investigate. When both TRE were off rotating the wheel hubs full turn both ways this felt smooth and normal, so I don't think it's suspension related, or the top and bottom joints.


Last time I looked at this I did try to undo the sliding joint, but that was damn tight so don't think this has slipped in any way...
Click to expand...
As I said its the lower steering column joint u/j seizing up. I am having the same problem. Sometimes its ok then the weather / temperature changes and its gone stiff again.
 
BriComp said:
As I said its the lower steering column joint u/j seizing up. I am having the same problem. Sometimes its ok then the weather / temperature changes and its gone stiff again.
Click to expand...
I suspect that you are right... after reviewing a couple of youtube clips, this is not a job I fancy doing. :cry::cry: Not from a 120 but I would imagine exactly the same

 
TonyP said:
I suspect that you are right... after reviewing a couple of youtube clips, this is not a job I fancy doing. :cry::cry: Not from a 120 but I would imagine exactly the same

Click to expand...
I had a quote from Mr T last year to replace the joint and they wanted £700, £270 for the part and £430 for Labour. You can buy the part on ebay (Claims Toyota Orig Part) for £140. Be careful with part numbers there are a number of variants. Best to use https://www.toyodiy.com/parts/q.html to search for the correct part for your vin number.
 
Not a massively hard job Tony - if that's what it is. You do have to be careful though. This guy talks about pounding on it. At the bottom there's a thing called the actuator and that's a bit sensitive. It'll start leaking if you batter it. The other thing to consider is the rack itself. There is a preload on it which is set by a big nut under the rack. If some dirt etc has got into the system it might be interfering with that. It's effectively a clamp onto the rack that works through friction. Any scoring / dirt could affect that. I'd disconnect the thing that this guy is doing and move the rack by hand. If it's smooth, it's cool. If the UJ rod is the same as his then you have an answer. Or, it could as said previously, be the wishbone joints.
 
When I changed my steering rack bushes I wanted to disconnect the column and the only reason I didn't was because I was too stupid to realise the splined connection on the rack has a groove in it, and unless you completely remove the bolt the UJ connects with it won't come off. I did all the loosening of the rest of the column and it really wasn't much of a job.

Changing the rack bushes incidentally was the worst job I've done. Eclipsing removing seized on lower wishbones! It would have been a bit easier if I could have tilted the rack, but as I couldn't disconnect the column.....

EDIT: OK, I watched the video, so maybe it's a bit sticky :) I don't have an air hammer but I reckon my SDS drill on hammer only would do the trick. It is a bit of a restricted space admittedly.

Also, I have those Delphi tie rods on mine. Had play in both of mine last year (after 170K miles). Can't comment on longevity. They seem OK. Not difficult to change, so I'll buy real ones from Amayama or such like if they do go again quickly.
 
Last edited:
Same. First time I did a 90 rack, it caused new words to be created. Second time, I couldn't understand what had taken me so long the first time.
 
Got a price for the TRE from Simon for genuine Toyota, £220 for the pair.. That ain't happening, can replace them 5 times with the ones from RT.

I'm just waiting for a price for the lower steering column, but recon that won't be cheap from Simon either so will get the ebay genuine one and have a go myself.
 
Last edited:
TonyP said:
Got a price for the TRE from Simon for genuine Toyota, £220 for the pair.. That ain't happening, can replace them 5 times with the ones from RT.

I'm just waiting for a price for the lower steering column, but recon that won't be cheap from Simon either so will get the ebay genuine one and have a go myself.
Click to expand...

Milner have the genuine ones for £112.80 inc VAT which is less than I paid from the UAE.

https://www.milneroffroad.com/toyot...teering-intermediate-shaft-right-hand-drive-0

Tie rods are £65/pair for genuine from Part Souq including postage. So with VAT and handling, about £90.
 
Thanks for the Milner link Rob, I'll look into that tmr once I hear back from Simon. not going to do the TRE's now as the ones one are good after cleaning, grading and refitting. I'll change then in the future if need be.
 
TonyP said:
Thanks for the Milner link Rob, I'll look into that tmr once I hear back from Simon. not going to do the TRE's now as the ones one are good after cleaning, grading and refitting. I'll change then in the future if need be.
Click to expand...
Milners are out of stock at the moment. Should be back in stock in 2-3 weeks.
 
The very fact that Milner sell those tells you something doesn't it.
 
Well got the Toyota price. I need a bloody drink after that £340....

Ordered the one from Miller will be here tmr.

I'll start liberally treating bolts and joints with wd40 which should hopefully make the job easier .
 
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