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"Toyota Door Control" module in driver's door

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Reno,
Had a similar problem with my old 80 - turned out to be one of the control rods in the had snapped.
Fixed it by making up a replacement from an old coat hangar.
Hope that helps.
Cheers,
Julian
 
On 9/9/06, Reno Lamb <[Email address removed]> wrote:
Hi Reno,
I have the same problem and I think, too, it's the door ECU. I am not
sure what it does and why it's there (except unlocking the door lock
if you press the lock button while a door is open).
AFAIK the ECU is not in the door and definitely not in the arm rest. I
guess it is behind the driver's kick panel but I have not enough time
right now to investigate.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
 
Hi Reno,
OK, re-reading this, I am still inclined to thing that this is down to either a sticking connecting rod or a solenoid - the fact that it works
some of the time gives me the impression that the the door control unit is fine.
Could you provide a bit more info on this - when you are saying 'more than a couple of times' is that at around the same time, within an hour,
within a week, etc?
The power door lock button is activating the same circuit as you do when you press the button on the remote so this just confirms that it is
unlikely to be the key fob on it's own.
There is an ECU in the drivers door and you have to remove the door panel to get to it. This is the main ecu for the door locks - I have
replaced one before as well as tapped into one when fitting alarms. Again however I re-iterate that if you are getting random operation I would
be more inclined to look elsewhere first.
-
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
Julian,
In my case it's definitely not a mechanical problem. I can lock the
doors centrally with the fob, then unlock them with the key and lock
them again. After that the fob won't open the doors. Or on some
occassions the fob will not work to open the locks but the key will.
The switch on the d/s armrest console works every time, though. I'm
an quite positive it must be the door ECU.
---
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
On 9/10/06, Julian Voelcker <[Email address removed]> wrote:
 
Hi Roman,
Firstly, do you have a factory fitted alarm or is it a 3rd party one?
Do you hear any sort of noise from the door, or the relays in the kick
panel when you try the fob and it's not working?
OK, fistly you need to go back to the type of alarm question. If it's
a factory alarm (as opposed to dealer fitted one) then it should be
properly wired in to the wiring harness.
Having said that, all the 80's I have seen appear to have factory
alarms, however they all dealer fitted ones, there are a few types, but
one of the key things with them is that they don't appear to just plug
in to the car's wiring loom - most of them are jury rigged with those
press on blue clip thingies. You will also find that the location for
the base unit varies and is generally just slotted in behind the dash
somewhere, more often than not behind the passenger side dash
somewhere.
When fitted, these alarms need have a wire run over to the control ecu
in the drivers door to provide the signal for locking and unlocking
(actually there may be too wire, can't remember off the top of my
head). One of the key things to point out is that wire needs to
actually go over to within the door, there are several wires of the
same colour in the loom going into the door and it's a bugger to
seperate them out.
The easiest route is to run the wires into the door and hook up to the
wiring where it plugs into the ecu - it makes it easier to ensure you
have the right connections.
The point I am trying to make is that there are a lot of places where
the there could be problems, the ecu is just one of them. I believe
that the the ECU controls all the door solenoids so if the switch in
the drivers door work for locking and unlocking and also the key works
for locking and locking then I am inclined to believe that the ECU is
fine.
I know it's probably a dumb question, but the first thing I would do is
check the battery for the remote key fob - the fact that it works the
first couple of times and then stops could be indicative of a battery
on it's way out.
The next thing I would do is to try to locate the alarm unit and then
trace the wires from there to the ECU in the door.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
OK Reno,
Firstly, do double check the wiring to see the interaction between the
door lock switch, the press switch inside the car and also the alarm -
I can't remember the details and don't have time to double check, but
it is worth investigating that relationship.
I would be inclined to wire in a small bulb across the wires to the ECU
from the alarm unit just to double check the ECU is receiving the
signal.
Also do the same with the wire from the door switch to the ECU.
I suggest wiring them in on the basis that the problem seem erratic.
If the signals are getting there but the ecu isn't doing it's job, then
start saving!
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
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Hello guys,
What Reno has described is exactly what happens in my case, except
that the lock/unlock toggle switch on the D/S door console works
always.
I have a Cobra alarm I fitted myself some years ago and will have to
dig out the notes to see to how I wired the CDL function. What makes
me think it's caused by the door ECU is that the toggle switch
(mentioned above) works always, just like the entry key switch in the
D/S door.
Because it affects all locks, not just one, it has to be caused either
by the ECU or the alarm/CDL. I've checked once the outpit signal from
the Cobra CDL with a scope and it gives a healthy 12V impulse for one
second.
What I will do next (when all other porobelms are sorted) I will see
if I can bypass the ECU and wire the alarm directly where the toggle
switch is connected to the circuit.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
 
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