Transfer Box?

[mallster70]

hi guys. put my 97 gx manual back onto the road after four years of fiddling.

prop shafts didnt go back on in the same way,and ive had quite alot of vibes....not in a good way either.

a thread on prop phasing was very informative and thanks to bob murphy, shayne and dave wall for putting me straight on that one.

thinking that if i removed the front prop (which came from a breakers) i could discount that one and get the rear phased a little better. i was always going to be a 'turn it and see' jobbie. then thought about changing the UJ's. no visible wear. im used to the yokes wearing through never mind worn needles as i have a few machines with power takes off shafts (pto) on the farm.

trouble is..after taking off the front shaft, i have no drive whatsoever in high box. i have to move the range lever forward into centre lock to get drive. the only way the truck was being driven in high range was through the fronts. i also have rear drive in LL.

you can put it in high and select R or 1 to five, let the clutch out and jump out. the front shaft flange spinning around like buggery, but alas, not the rear.

transfer box?

cheers.

 

[silvercruiser]

Thats correct.

if you take a propshaft off you will need to put in centre difflock by the method you have said, move the lever into HL otherwise the transfer box is like an open diff and will put the power to the least resistance.

your transfer box is working fine.

 

[mallster70]

is that right??!

i had no idea that the tranfer box would do that!

 

[silvercruiser]

yes its working as it should.

and vice versa if you put the front prop on and take the rear off it will do the same.

 

[mallster70]

if this is indeed the case, is there an easy way of phasing the shafts silver?

i read in a previous thread that you replaced your UJ's after vibration.

at £10 each i may just do them and discount the worn joints senario.

i notice the front shaft has weld on weights too. how come? didnt think it would need any being so short, unlike the rear.

 

[silvercruiser]

I used genuine toyota uj's in the end, i also replaced one the the yolkes that attaches to the transferbox flange as this had wear in it. as for props im no expert. i just kept the prop together whilst changing the uj's so im not the best to advise on them.

 

[clivehorridge]

I would start to eliminate bad vibes by replacing UJs first. Then progress to phasing if necessary.

With the CDL engaged, you can do them individually, rear first with the front prop off, then the front with the rear prop off.

It can get a bit more complex, especially if you have a lift, because the flange angles will be altered by the lift.

Have a read of Chris J's "Grey Ghost" thread (HDJ80) he's opened up the whole issue of flange angles and prop phasing.

 

[StarCruiser]

if this is indeed the case, is there an easy way of phasing the shafts silver?

Find an identical vehicle and ask the owner if you can have a look at the shafts underneath and take some measurements. Then correct yours to the measurements you took.

 

[Chris]

Unless you have actually taken the two halves of the props apart then this has nothing to do with phasing.

You can take a prop off, move the wheels, spin the transfer box as much as you like. When you put the prop back on, you line all 4 holes up in each end and pop the bolts in. It doesn't matter at all which holes you use. It only matters if you split the prop shaft. In other words phasing has nothing to do with the diff flanges themselves. Four issues with props

1. Balancing
2. Worn UJs
3. Phasing - yoke alignment
4. UJ working angles.

 

[clivehorridge]

What happened to 3 Chris?

 

[mallster70]

thanks guys for your replies.

i will start replacing all the UJ's then see where we are.

at £10 with the prop already off you may as well do them all.

will report back,

cheers